Two Bent Pushrods

I assume by your pix that you have not put any water in it yet? Even a short run with a dry water pump can damage the seal in it.
 
Yeah, I haven't put any water in yet, but she fired up this morning, I only ran it for about 5 or 10 seconds, she runs a little rought but I think that goes back to the carb, I didn't run it long b/c there was no radiator, it's going on next, I used the turkey baster and no ether and a fresh battery and she started right up thanks to everyone for their help, one more question though, I'm not sure if I want to put the a/c back on, I know if I don't I would have to plug the lines that went and came from the a/c. Any suggestions?
 
Simply disconnect the suction and discharge plumbing from the evaporator inlet/out connections. Then securely seal the evaporator fittings to prevent any air or outside contamination from entering in case someday you do want to attempt to put the ac system back in service.

Then seal all hose connections or any other connection points that you disassemble. Keep that stuff sealed until such time as you attempt to reconnect. It's imperative that atmospheric contamination be excluded from any and all refrigeration plumbing.

The receiver/drier itself is a throw-away item that has a regular replacement schedule, so it would not be reused in the future.

All the plumbing connections on the oem a/c system are flare-type. Modern "o" ring fittings did not come into common useage in the mobile hvac industry until around 1983>84.

Edit:

I see now from your pics that the hoses were simply cut, so unless the manual service valves on that compressor were shut down, it's already been contaminated internally. Same for the evaporator. The disconnect fittings for the hoses at the evaporator are inside the cab and somewhat difficult to access.
 
Okay, she's back alive, she started right up, I still have to hold the throttle down just a tad when it starts, I put 5 quarts of oil in and it shows low, but the oil pressure gauge shows good oil pressure, I think I leaked a little out putting it in and when I forgot the two screws on the very back of the oil pan, I guess I need to get the carb rebuilt professionally in order to make it run right, I just finished welding the drivers fender up to make it look new again, she will go on tomorrow, then it's off to the body shop, lift rims and tires!! Thanks for everyones help, I'll stick around and see if I can't add some knowledge somewhere.
 
Grim, you're actually 2 quarts low. 6 will get you to the full Mark. 7 puts you one quart over, which is where you want to be with the unique Scout II double sump pan. This was posted as a service bulletin way back in the day from the IH propeller heads as a solution to an oil starvation problem at extended high rpms inherent in the Scout II engines only due to the funky hump pan. It won't hurt a damn thing to be overfull on any IH v8, but it is only a necessity on the Scout's with the solid front axle clearing oil pan.
 
Thanks guys, I was running her this morning after adding the two quarts, I still have a couple of small issues, the thermostat housing is leaking a littke, easy fix, I forgot the thermostat and took the housing off and put it in and it didn't seal properly, no big deal, there is fuel leaking from the carb on both sides, there is a hole on the passenger side of the carb that looks like there should be a tube in it and it looks like it's leaking there a little, on the drivers side fuel is collecting on top of the throttle, I guess a rebuild would fix this? Also one quick question, if I wanted to just scratch the old carb for time and effort sake, what new Holley would be idea for this motor? I have a rebuilt 2210, I was looking at a Holley 2300, any suggestions?
 
Ideal carb replacement??,...the venerable Holley 2300 but only in the 350cfm version, list 0-7448.
 
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