The "Fuel Tank" Thread

As a novice mechanic, I worked 14 hours in the tx heat yesterday and finally got the tank back in working order. Well kinda... I started by buying 15ft of the small gas line (I used 14ft. Of it) and new hose clamps. The only hose they had was a fraction bigger than the old hose, but it seemed to clamp down real tight. I used the hose clamps that have a plastic wing nut instead of the screwdriver tightened one because of the limited access. Once I had the tank removed I drained it and cleaned it inside and out. I used mineral spirits to rinse out the inside and I did find lots of rust particles in the wash. To dry it out I put a shop vac hose inside and ran it for about 10 minutes to dry it out, then it sat in the heat for another hour and it was bone dry. I used some weld epoxy and reattached the nipple with no problem. I did open the access panel behind the spare tire like you mentioned and was able to access and replace one more section of hose. It was another pain in the butt getting the carpet loose and gaining access to the hose juntion unit hiding inside the fender. To reattach the tank I used a block with a jack pressing up on a sheet of plywood to get the tank back to the nest. I must have struggled for 2 hours trying to get the tank straps refastened. I struggled the most with getting the nut on the long bolt that is shaped like a "7" that hooks into the frame above the frame/bumper. It is just dangling there and could not take much pressure when I would try to get the nut on. I was just thinking if I could only get a bolt that was and inch longer! Well, I somehow got the drivers side strap on and tightned it up a lot thinking this would help the other side but it did not. I ended up just using a wire to tie the other strap the frame in utter frustration. It seems to be sturdy, but I'll need to get it fixed soon. Good news it that it held fuel and cranked right up! Nothing to do today except wait on the transport truck to show up...
It can only get better from here.
 

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I'm attaching again, a .pdf of the evaporative emissions system from an ihc service reference, first diagram izza sii. This illustrates the big picture.

I know what I'd do...but I won't discuss it here on the forum, email me privately for my "opinion"!

Ok, how do I find out your opinion?
 
You May be waiting quite awhile to hear his opinion, so I sent you a pm of mine, which is likely to be in a similar vein.
 
Any insight on the 30+ gallon tank with adding a weld-in bung for a fuel return?
Something I have been considering with a possible upgrade to efi.

Michael posted a photo of the 30+ tank in the beginning with fuel supply fitting at the base of the tank as gravity feed. I'm not too fond of it either. I have been contemplating a different route of fuel supply than. Welding two bungs at the top(one supply and one return) of the tank with tubes threaded into the bungs on the inside of tank and bent down to bottom. Am I over thinking? Any thoughts?
 
The previous owner had the tank pulled out. I purchased a new sending unit for it. I noticed he has all the vent lines pinched off. Can I still use the tank? The charcoal canister has a broken nipple that looked like someone tried to repair with rtv that
didnt take and the liquid/vapor separator im not sure if it even there. Looking for some advice before I proceed. Thanks in advance for any help

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/stoney126/2013-01-21_13-36-56_866.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/stoney126/2013-01-21_13-36-44_573.jpg
 
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I too have had problems filling my tanks of my 80 at the station. The high pressure pumps just fill to fast and I end up with gas down the side of my truck. In the past I was able to angle the nozzle like mentioned here and run the pump at low speed, but the pumps are just to fast for that trick to work.

What I am planning to do is to remove the pass. Side tank and cutting the fill tube neck off and lowering it to increes the downward angle of the fill tube. I'm thinking lowering it just below the stock location. I will have to incress the length a bit to use the stock hose nad modifiy the mud shield, but I think that is it.

Has anyone tried this mod before? I will take pictures as I go, and if it works out I will post them here as well as on my build thread. If it works well I will do the same mod to the drivers tank. I should still be able to get at least 6 gallons in each tank which should be enought for what I use the truck for.

Thoughts?
 
I think you have the right idea. What it you slid a piece of pipe/tube inside the filler tube on the tank and welded/sealed that at the top so you could still use the stock rubber hose to attach tank.

The idea is the gas can hit the bottom of the tank and get under water so to speak to prevent splashing.

I have a Scout II tank which has a 1/2" air vent line that enters on the side of the filler neck. I've use to hold the nozzle sleeve back and pump gas and you could see gas being sprayed out the vent port. Just enough to cut off the gas pump.

My trick now is to start the pump and twist the handle up side down so the gas goes straight down the tube. This has been my fix.
So first try twisting the nozzle to different angels and see it that works for ya.
 
I have similar problems with both the Scout II and t'ette. The best solution I've found is to change stations. Some places the fuel comes out all frothy and that where I have problems filling. Other places it will fill straight up and click off first time every time.
 
the previous owner had the tank pulled out. I purchased a new sending unit for it. I noticed he has all the vent lines pinched off. Can I still use the tank? The charcoal canister has a broken nipple that looked like someone tried to repair with rtv that
didnt take and the liquid/vapor separator im not sure if it even there. Looking for some advice before I proceed. Thanks in advance for any help

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/stoney126/2013-01-21_13-36-56_866.jpg

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e275/stoney126/2013-01-21_13-36-44_573.jpg

In my 74 Scout, which was my daily driver, with all those nipples plugged just like you posted in your photos. I didn't have any issues that I recall except when sun beats down onto the bed over a full tank of gas, it had a tendency to expand and escape out the filler tube.

On the 80 models regarding being at the pump filling up and spilling over, I have read and/or seen photos somewhere where some one had made their own filler tubes. For the life of me I can't remember where I've seen it or the over all out come.
 
The other day I offer to pump my own gas, explaining to this little girl working there my gas tank vent problem.
She says "oh I got it", and sticks a sharpie felt pen under the lever.
I just roll my eyes and step back,expecting it to burp.
It worked like a charm. Now I got a sharpie in my glove box.:smile5:
 
I have done the twist and it still works at some stations with older pumps, but they are few and far between. I am interested in the felt tip sharpie idea. I don't think I understatn what she did.

I have toyed with the idea of adding another tube inside the stock tube much like the filler on my ranger, but I'm still not convinced it would work. I think the fuel would just jet against the wall of the tube due to the still horizontal 90 degree turn and kick the pump off. I'm hope adding a vertical fall by lowering the inlet will help. I just finished putting in the new tank switch last night. I hope to get the right tank out today so I get get it to the shop this weekend. The ice is thawing and we are starting to move around a bit here now.

I still have to remmeber how to put the window regulators in and where the metal threaded tabs that came out when I sand blasted the doors go, but thats another thread...:nono:
 
Thanks for all of the feed back.

I have done the twist and it still works at some stations with older pumps, but they are few and far between. I am interested in the felt tip sharpie idea. I don't think I understatn what she did.

I have toyed with the idea of adding another tube inside the stock tube much like the filler on my ranger, but I'm still not convinced it would work. I think the fuel would just jet against the wall of the tube due to the still horizontal 90 degree turn and kick the pump off. I'm hope adding a vertical fall by lowering the inlet will help. I just finished putting in the new tank switch last night. I hope to get the right tank out today so I get get it to the shop this weekend. The ice is thawing and we are starting to move around a bit here now.

I still have to remmeber how to put the window regulators in and where the metal threaded tabs that came out when I sand blasted the doors go, but thats another thread...:nono:
 
thanks for all of the feed back.

I have toyed with the idea of adding another tube inside the stock tube much like the filler on my ranger, but I'm still not convinced it would work. I think the fuel would just jet against the wall of the tube due to the still horizontal 90 degree turn and kick the pump off. I'm hope adding a vertical fall by lowering the inlet will help. I just finished putting in the new tank switch last night. I hope to get the right tank out today so I get get it to the shop this weekend. The ice is thawing and we are starting to move around a bit here now.

I have a friend with a 69 800 that actually did put in a corrugated flex tube inside the filler tube. He claimed it seemed to work well at any pumping station.
 
Ok I have a tank question, 9 gallon early Scout poly tank, the fuel pick up port, I wanna adapt a threded line to use braded a.n fuelines, what part should I find to adapt to the tank
 

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I havent recived my tank yet , u understood what I was thinking. Id imagin the pick up line just threds out and then I can thred that in, thanks just makin sure
 
this shot shows the nest in the rear section of a typical sii where the oem fuel tank mounts. The floor support creates an issue where the top of the tank has to be contoured to provide clearance. And the frame intermediate crossmember dictates where the tank must sit in relation to the rearmost crossmember.

The filler neck nipple and all the "vent" (eecs system) nipples are located above the frame rail and many of ya know how difficult it is to deal with those connections when the connecting soft hose is old and rotten!



Whats that off white hose running through the middle of that photo??
 
whats that off white hose running through the middle of that photo??

Since mr. Mayben probably won't be on here any time soon, to reply back, I had to look back on page one to look at the photo.
That cream colored hose appears to be the vinyl hose that connects the evap unit mounted up inside body panel near the fuel filler. Then that same hose connects t9 charcoal cannister in the engine compartment.
 
I pulled the tank in hopes I might repair the leaks. I'm hoping someone might know of a replacement tank. Thanks in advance.

1975 loadstar 1700 dump, 392 gas, auto, 18+ gal passenger side gas tank, fills in rear behind passenger seat.

Tank is 12"x12"x38" pinched in rear
 

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Just made an account on this site so in not sure how it works but I just bought a 1970 Scout 800 and cannot figure out how to switch gas tanks can anyone help ?
 
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