The "Fuel Tank" Thread

[Caperodder]

Thanks michael. I'm in parts accumulation mode. Yer dead on with my winter plans. Working on 4 projects simultaneously as parts are delivered and time allows.

Rear passenger side is sagging pretty low due to a rotted tailgate sill and center crossmember, not to mention cooked body mounts. So yes, the tank is the first thing to get out of the way.

The matchless is firing up on first kick now, but I'm under a lot of pressure from the uk matchless club, not to restore it. The "it's only original once" story. So fer now it stays as-is.

Thanks again!

Brett

 

[Craig]

One more pic of the inside on how the vent tubes are routed.

 

[jcarlisle]

Ok I guess I'll post the tank I'm building for my 80 here as well.






I haven't finished it yet so no outside pics. It's made of 2 pieces the top and sides are 1/8" hr steel and the bottom/front/back are 3/16". 5/16 fuel line attached to a -6 weld on an fitting with 3/8 and 1/4 gussets/baffles welded to the bottom, 1/2 rod "sump" welded to bottom in the pickup area. It should hold appx 31 gallons.

 

[mcsmythe]

the original option dual tank kit for the s80 had no provision for switching, just a 1/4" "equalizer" tube connecting the two tanks, how stoopid can we be???? That way the fuel level gauge would read only after tha dam thang set for about 30 minutes while the fuel levels "equalized"!!! That was a typical "agricultural" deal since the Scout 80 was just an evolved manure spreader witha pump motor!

This is the situation I am in, have the original equalizer tube without the ability to switch between tanks. I will be converting to the 3-way valve when I re-pipe the fuel lines. I pulled the passenger tank this weekend to find it in really nice condition, remember this is a '61:



And the bay for the tank in pretty nice condition as well:



I'm guessing the only sender is on the driver side tank.

 

[Michael Mayben]

You are correct about a "single sender" for that screwball "equalizer" dual tank setup.

But the tank with no sender has the port for a sender but it's "blanked" with a plate.

So the light line replacement sender for a Scout 80/800 available here at ihon will mount right in, even though it's physical appearance is somewhat different. Those will be the correct resistive value...10>73 ohms.

So what I do is add a simple dual throw toggle switch to switch between the two senders (or to physically/electrically "pick" which sender to use). So switching tanks involves a manual selector valve change...and flip a switch!

I have pics of all this I can post if ya need some ideas.

The second tank was available as a dealer-install "kit" also. Some were installed with selector valves and sender switches, some were not. I've seen nearly every variation! And if your rig has the optional "tool box" hinged lid in the passenger side rear inner fender, then the box must be removed and ya gotta simple lid that allows ya to access the top of the tank on that side.

Very nice looking tank compartments!!! I'm real jealous!

 

[mcsmythe]

Very nice looking tank compartments!!! I'm real jealous!

It's that great, dry az air. you would be amazed at how much dirt/dried mud I pulled out of the void between the inner skin and outer skin. It was up almost halfway between the two bolt holes on the right.

Thanks for the information on the tank options. I May even look around for a 3rd tank to go between the framerails, under the bed. That would give me some real "range" out in the desert.

 

[1hc72]

Im thinking of getting rid of my driverside tank since it is a real pain in the butt to fill.would I be able to drop in a older Chevy, dodge or Ford tank in between the frame rails. Im thinking if a 35 gallon tank in the rear. Is this possible?

 

[mcsmythe]

im thinking of getting rid of my driverside tank since it is a real pain in the butt to fill.would I be able to drop in a older Chevy, dodge or Ford tank in between the frame rails. Im thinking if a 35 gallon tank in the rear. Is this possible?

I've heard of folks using isuzu trooper tanks as well.

 

[Robert Kenney]

I'll play devils advocate here regarding the fuel carrying capacity of the s80. They hold 20 gallon and that is a lot of gas for a 4 banger. I can use 18 of it in my 65' by running one to the bottom and at 16 mpg I can go almost 300 miles. In short I really like the 80 tank arrangement and the fact that it is oe is nice

my 61 had the factory dual tanks but no selector. That was quickly changed though and a second sender added with a spdt switch in the dash.

I never have any issues filling the tanks but I do have to direct the filler nozzle to the rear of the opening and use half the full flow rate to fill.

The warn od is a great addition to the baby Scout by the way to aid in fuel economy.

 

[Michael Mayben]

im thinking of getting rid of my driverside tank since it is a real pain in the butt to fill.would I be able to drop in a older Chevy, dodge or Ford tank in between the frame rails. Im thinking if a 35 gallon tank in the rear. Is this possible?

A "d" model pickup fuel tank system is nothing similar to what is used in Scout 80/800, ya can't make a comparison!

If the oem passenger side tank won't fill easily then something is wrong, it's not a design issue.

If both oem tanks are functional, then that is a fuel capacity of at least 26 gallons minimum onna pickup.

Putting any boneyard tank between the rear frame rails is gonna be a major fabrication job involving relocation of the exhaust system, major plumbing work for the fill and evaporative emissions system, and relocation of the spare if it's still carried under the bed.

 

[RobertC]

Putting gas in the pass side on my t/a can be a bit of a problem -- mostly getting the "flap" to seal and not dribble gas down the outside.

The first "issue" is the 90 degree bend -- you have to insert the nozzle far enough in -- pointing down as much as possible -- to prevent gas from hitting the "back" of the pipe and triggering the "auto-shutoff" in the pump.

There are a few versions of the nozzle out there. On one "short version", I had better "luck" with positioning the nozzle "upside down" -- gas pump hose coming "down from the top".

In CA, "they" are putting a new "short version" nozzle on the gas pumps.

This seems to be a little "harder" -- I am starting to think there is some "kind of switch" in the "flapper" and gas will not flow until it "seals correctly". I have had to "reposition" the nozzle even on the rear tank to get the gas to flow.

On the pass side tank, positioning the nozzle at about 45 degrees from the bottom seems to help. I also have to use more pressure to hold the nozzle in because the "seal" mechanism / rubber is a lot shorter than the previous version.

Also, it seems like for this new style nozzle (and pump?), the gas pumps slightly slower.... Than the older versions.

 

[mcsmythe]

I'll play devils advocate here regarding the fuel carrying capacity of the s80. They hold 20 gallon and that is a lot of gas for a 4 banger. I can use 18 of it in my 65' by running one to the bottom and at 16 mpg I can go almost 300 miles. In short I really like the 80 tank arrangement and the fact that it is oe is nice

my 61 had the factory dual tanks but no selector. That was quickly changed though and a second sender added with a spdt switch in the dash.

I never have any issues filling the tanks but I do have to direct the filler nozzle to the rear of the opening and use half the full flow rate to fill.

The warn od is a great addition to the baby Scout by the way to aid in fuel economy.

I fully agree. I think the oem saddle setup is great and 300miles is nothing to slouch at. I would however like to consider options to add some capacity other than jerrycans. I plan on spending 1-2weeks living out of the Scout out in the middle of the forest/reservation and will not have access to a filling station. Do you happen to know if a warn od unit can be used if there is an existing front pto driven winch? I'd like to consider a warn but not at the expense of the winch.

Also, is that a monza in your avitar? I used to have a very nice vega back in the day.

 

[TBC]

im thinking of getting rid of my driverside tank since it is a real pain in the butt to fill.would I be able to drop in a older Chevy, dodge or Ford tank in between the frame rails. Im thinking if a 35 gallon tank in the rear. Is this possible?

My '68 800 only has a drivers side saddle tank. So I was going to order the passenger side and all
the applications to make that work. However because of the constant filling problems at the
fuel stations I've decided to relocate the filler and place a larger single tank between the frame rails
in the rear as well.
I was going to have a tank built, but, a friend of mine has a tank from a Bronco II that he has givin
me. We've done some measuring and test fitting and come to the conclusion that the Bronco II
tank (23 gal) is about and 1/8" to big. So it will require some trimming.
I'll keep you posted on how it works out. Still got some planning to do so don't expect anything soon.

 

[Robert Kenney]

I plan on spending 1-2weeks living out of the Scout out in the middle of the forest/reservation and will not have access to a filling station.

You do have special requirments so extended capacity is nice.

Do you happen to know if a warn od unit can be used if there is an existing front pto driven winch? I'd like to consider a warn but not at the expense of the winch.

Sorry, no. If you have already populated the rear auxilery transfercase pad of the d18 then you cannot run a warn od.

For me the splitter function of the od is priceless but then I don't have a use for the winch.

Also, is that a monza in your avitar? I used to have a very nice vega back in the day.

Yes, it is a 75-79 monza but slightly modified into a blown alcohol nostalgia funny car. Engine goes in tonight. Hope to make the chrr in bakersfield in October.

A buddy of mine is building a vega funny right now.

 

[Michael Dimock]

Do you happen to know if a warn od unit can be used if there is an existing front pto driven winch? I'd like to consider a warn but not at the expense of the winch.

Yes, actually it can. You have to buy an overdrive/pto aluminum adapter. You can get this from herm the overdrive guy as well as any parts you would need for your overdrive and pto. You will also have to make a trip to six states to get a longer shaft for your pto. This is what I'll be doing once the engine gets rebuilt and stuffed back in....

Link here:

pto adapter kit details

 

[mcsmythe]

yes, actually it can. You have to buy an overdrive/pto aluminum adapter. You can get this from herm the overdrive guy as well as any parts you would need for your overdrive and pto. You will also have to make a trip to six states to get a longer shaft for your pto. This is what I'll be doing once the engine gets rebuilt and stuffed back in....

Link here:

pto adapter kit details

Sweet, thanks. Time to start saving for an od.

 

[Robert Kenney]

Good info.

 

[cornfed]

I am about to begin fabricating a gas tank for my 1210 and was wondering what the best way to vent it would be. I was planning on venting each of the top corners of the tank with the vent outlets coming to a central location, much like the nwmp tanks. Does the tubing running on the inside of the tank need to be capped with some sort of "blocker" to prevent the fuel from sloshing into the vent system or do I leave them open. Also, what would be the appropriate size to use? Would 1/4" suffice? I was also going to add a larger vent on the filler neck as well. Any thoughts on how to properly vent a tank? This will be a carburated application with possible FI in the future. Thanks

 

[Michael Mayben]

The vent penetration in the tank itself should be "baffled" in some manner...and should be in the absolute highest point of the container itself. Running it into some sort of "air gap" mounted remotely is an excellent idea provided it is of sufficient size. 1/2" would be great...or at least two in minimum 5/16" tube to achieve sufficient cross-sectional area.

The oem vent tube in the filler neck assembly is sufficient, as it runs back into the tank to direct fuel overflow in a contained manner. On older vehicles, the filler vented to the ground.

 

[TBC]

the vent penetration in the tank itself should be "baffled" in some manner...and should be in the absolute highest point of the container itself. Running it into some sort of "air gap" mounted remotely is an excellent idea provided it is of sufficient size. 1/2" would be great...or at least two in minimum 5/16" tube to achieve sufficient cross-sectional area.

The oem vent tube in the filler neck assembly is sufficient, as it runs back into the tank to direct fuel overflow in a contained manner. On older vehicles, the filler vented to the ground.

Yea, what he said.

I am by far, not an expert in this field. The Bronco tank is a trial and error project/idea. I hope it will work but could very well blow up in me face. Hopefully not literaly.