harrywt
Member
I finally got a new one a week ago. You can see some numbers on the broken one a couple posts back. Do you want to know the numbers on both that I have?
T19 Rebuild in Korea
- Thread starter harrywt
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jeff campbell
Active member
I seen the # on your new 1 . T-18c ? Whats your old # ? If tey're the same then, you be ok. Jeff
jeff campbell
Active member
I do believe they are, only diff is the size of the gear's...Jeff
harrywt
Member
Hey there, I just saw this, sorry. I am hunkered down for the winter still but will be resuming the rebuild soon
harrywt
Member
So we're finally getting hospitable weather here in the republic of korea, so it's time to drop the old t18. It finally started to degrade. Became very difficult to shift and sometimes just would not come out of gear until I rocked back and forth a bit but I would get some big bangs like when the spider gears in one of my diffs went bad pieces got caught in the gears.
I took out the shafts and then manhandles the transfer case with my son. So the pics will start with the tranny drop. I tried to do it as hillbilly as possible so I collected a bunch of lumber scraps and some plastic stools. I tried to not cut anything, just fit together what I found and go for it. The tranny couldn't get any more broke....
I took out the shafts and then manhandles the transfer case with my son. So the pics will start with the tranny drop. I tried to do it as hillbilly as possible so I collected a bunch of lumber scraps and some plastic stools. I tried to not cut anything, just fit together what I found and go for it. The tranny couldn't get any more broke....
harrywt
Member
So I need to enlarge the slots in the cross member that supports the transmission. I will make them large enough to accept the ring shaped extension of the polyurethane of the mount.
I wonder if I should trim the ring off of one of the mounts. The height of one matches the thickness of the cross member so they both won't go into it. (this might be measure twice, cut once time) as soon as they start pressing against each other they will expand larger than the size of the slots in the cross member.
Any opinions?
I wonder if I should trim the ring off of one of the mounts. The height of one matches the thickness of the cross member so they both won't go into it. (this might be measure twice, cut once time) as soon as they start pressing against each other they will expand larger than the size of the slots in the cross member.
Any opinions?
harrywt
Member
Ok. So I am still kind of bothered by the transmission mount assembly scheme. The mount has 1" diameter rings around the holes that are 0.125" high. You have to enlarge the holes in the cross member to accommodate them
harrywt
Member
I have the cross member out of my Scout and I notice that it is made of 0.125" thick steel. Remember that the mounts have a 0.125" lip on them so if I want to close up the mounts to the cross member I am going to have to squeeze each one down by half.
I had a couple of steel bushings made that fit into the large holes in the mount and then of an id appropriate to the 3/8" bolts that go into the tranny. To close up the 0.125" gap I will need to make them 0.125" shorter than the space between the steel plates inside of the mounts.
Now keep in mind that my mounts are polyurethane so they are harder than rubber mounts. I am not sure if I can even squeeze the rings by a total of 0.125" and even so there will be very little force on the mating surfaces of the mounts and the cross member. Maybe that's desirable because then the tranny can slide a little fore and aft in the slots.
If I want to have some pressure on the mating surfaces I will have to cut the bushings down even more, something like 0.1875" to give a 1/16" "squeeze". So now I have to think about squeezing the poly urethane even more. I am thinking abiut trimming down the rings a bit to shift force from them to the mating surfaces.
So I have convinced myself to get two sets of bushings made and just test out what happens so I don't need any of your opinions after all! But thanks for listening.....
Seriously though, please give me your opinions, especially Tom (fdchappie) as he and I have been consulting on this.
View attachment mounts_on_crossmember.pdf
I had a couple of steel bushings made that fit into the large holes in the mount and then of an id appropriate to the 3/8" bolts that go into the tranny. To close up the 0.125" gap I will need to make them 0.125" shorter than the space between the steel plates inside of the mounts.
Now keep in mind that my mounts are polyurethane so they are harder than rubber mounts. I am not sure if I can even squeeze the rings by a total of 0.125" and even so there will be very little force on the mating surfaces of the mounts and the cross member. Maybe that's desirable because then the tranny can slide a little fore and aft in the slots.
If I want to have some pressure on the mating surfaces I will have to cut the bushings down even more, something like 0.1875" to give a 1/16" "squeeze". So now I have to think about squeezing the poly urethane even more. I am thinking abiut trimming down the rings a bit to shift force from them to the mating surfaces.
So I have convinced myself to get two sets of bushings made and just test out what happens so I don't need any of your opinions after all! But thanks for listening.....
Seriously though, please give me your opinions, especially Tom (fdchappie) as he and I have been consulting on this.
View attachment mounts_on_crossmember.pdf
FDChappie
Well-known member
I used the steel sleeves that came with the mounts, so I don't know exactly how long they are. The polyurethane can be compressed a lot. I'd cut the sleeves so you get about 1/16" of an inch compression on the xmember.
The drive to our home includes 3 miles of patched patches of asphalt called pavement and 1 mile of dirt. Things really get bounced around on that road since it isn't driven slow and there is no issue with the transmission mount or how things are holding up. Everything is tight and solid after 2 years of that abuse.
I'm more concerned about your flywheel and would really like to see some better pics.
The drive to our home includes 3 miles of patched patches of asphalt called pavement and 1 mile of dirt. Things really get bounced around on that road since it isn't driven slow and there is no issue with the transmission mount or how things are holding up. Everything is tight and solid after 2 years of that abuse.
I'm more concerned about your flywheel and would really like to see some better pics.
FDChappie
Well-known member
I used the steel sleeves that came with the mounts, so I don't know exactly how long they are. The polyurethane can be compressed a lot. I'd cut the sleeves so you get about 1/16" of an inch compression on the xmember.
The drive to our home includes 3 miles of patched patches of asphalt called pavement and 1 mile of dirt. Things really get bounced around on that road since it isn't driven slow and there is no issue with the transmission mount or how things are holding up. Everything is tight and solid after 2 years of that abuse.
I'm more concerned about your flywheel and would really like to see some better pics.
The drive to our home includes 3 miles of patched patches of asphalt called pavement and 1 mile of dirt. Things really get bounced around on that road since it isn't driven slow and there is no issue with the transmission mount or how things are holding up. Everything is tight and solid after 2 years of that abuse.
I'm more concerned about your flywheel and would really like to see some better pics.
harrywt
Member
I'm getting there
Hondo
Member
Had a similar issue with the nosecones. Bought a t19 wide (right side in picture), and replaced the seal and gasket on the nose cone that came on it before I noticed the difference. Input shafts are same length, but clutch disc runs out closer to the end of the input shaft on the inlines. The longer one is for a straight six, possibly a diesel as well. Unfortunately, with the longer nosecone you can't run the longer throw out bearing sleeve, hits the back where the ground part of the nosecone that the bearing sleeve rides on ends (can't adjust it loose enough). Looking for a spare that I can get turned back about 1/4 in more. Those small useless looking furniture dollies they sell at harbor freight for about 14 bucks are priceless for rolling these 160 pound trannies around.
Attachments
harrywt
Member
My long nosecone was on the t18 that I just took out of Scout. I have a 304. I put the long one onto the rebuilt t19 that I am about to install.
harrywt
Member
Ok. So flywheel out to be serviced, having new mount bushings made and a spacer plate to set the clutch fingers. IHPA is sending me a new friction plate, to bearing and input shaft bearing. They haven't told me if they can replace the clutch finger adjustment screws, if not I'll have some metric ones fabricated, it is so nice having many reasonably priced machine shops all over town.
So, to keep from being bored, I rebuilt the transfer case. There were no issues except that I couldn't find my dial gauge until I was finished. So lots of install and removes until I got shims right. Here are some pics of the finished product. Of course, short one measly o ring for the intermediate shaft prevents me from declaring it finished. I also have a new high capacity cover that I will install after installing case into Scout.
So, to keep from being bored, I rebuilt the transfer case. There were no issues except that I couldn't find my dial gauge until I was finished. So lots of install and removes until I got shims right. Here are some pics of the finished product. Of course, short one measly o ring for the intermediate shaft prevents me from declaring it finished. I also have a new high capacity cover that I will install after installing case into Scout.
harrywt
Member
By the way, there is a lot of play of the sliding gear over the front output shaft. Like greater than 0.005" in fact each of the spines has a slight step in it just where the sliding gear ends (see arrows) I should have gotten a picture. Anyway, since it is the front shaft I am not super worried for the time being. I don't remember if this happened with my other transfer case. Any opinions?
harrywt
Member
Wow. I wrote out a post, attached pics and it disappeared, so try again.
I tried a dry fit of my newly rebuilt Dana 20 to my newly rebuilt and painted t19. I wanted to be absolutely certain that the bull gear seated properly. I measure everything carefully but nothing beats reality.
Anyway I had the tranny standing on its bell housing to make it easier to paint and it seemed best position to dry fit.
So here I am getting on my son's case about not paying attention and gosh darn it the shifter yoke interferes with the tranny body.
It is just one goddamn thing after another. If this job hadn't been so drawn out I might have installed the tranny and found this out under the truck!
So what is going on here? I measure the output shaft of the old t18 and the new t19 very carefully. I even measure the distance from back of the bull gear to the mating surface of the tranny and then compared thiis to the distance from the back of the counter shaft gear in the tcase to the mating surface and got an exact match. The bolt patterns are also the same.
This is a wide ratio t19, the probability of being non Scout is very small, plus did the t19 housings vary over there manufacturing life?
I tried a dry fit of my newly rebuilt Dana 20 to my newly rebuilt and painted t19. I wanted to be absolutely certain that the bull gear seated properly. I measure everything carefully but nothing beats reality.
Anyway I had the tranny standing on its bell housing to make it easier to paint and it seemed best position to dry fit.
So here I am getting on my son's case about not paying attention and gosh darn it the shifter yoke interferes with the tranny body.
It is just one goddamn thing after another. If this job hadn't been so drawn out I might have installed the tranny and found this out under the truck!
So what is going on here? I measure the output shaft of the old t18 and the new t19 very carefully. I even measure the distance from back of the bull gear to the mating surface of the tranny and then compared thiis to the distance from the back of the counter shaft gear in the tcase to the mating surface and got an exact match. The bolt patterns are also the same.
This is a wide ratio t19, the probability of being non Scout is very small, plus did the t19 housings vary over there manufacturing life?
FDChappie
Well-known member
Well your swap is going just like mine. Except my trans was installed when I discovered the problem. http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/showthread.php?t=10139
harrywt
Member
We've really got to work out a way to cross reference these threads. One good thing is to come up with a good thread name. I blew it with "clutch question", "t19 rebuild in korea" is better but there's one big issue.
When you do a search, even of just titles, the search page won't let you use a search term like "t19", it must be coded to reject single search terms of 3 characters or less.
I was searching and searching for Tom's thread to see if he encountered my problem.
And btw, I feel your pain. I am so freaking lucky that I found this problem in my workshop. Man, do I feel your pain, Tom.
So, there must be a factory mod to the Dana 20 yoke to accommodate the t19, no?
When you do a search, even of just titles, the search page won't let you use a search term like "t19", it must be coded to reject single search terms of 3 characters or less.
I was searching and searching for Tom's thread to see if he encountered my problem.
And btw, I feel your pain. I am so freaking lucky that I found this problem in my workshop. Man, do I feel your pain, Tom.
So, there must be a factory mod to the Dana 20 yoke to accommodate the t19, no?