T19 Rebuild in Korea

[harrywt]

Hi guys,

so I got my rebuild kit from IHPA an d I have been looking for a place to set up shop. I now live in an apartment, no more hillbilly mansion...

I have been storing my tools in the parking garage and have been slowly organizing the area and today I started tinkering with the tranny, thought I'd get the bell housing off do some gunk scraping etc.

Well one thing led to another and I started pulling some parts off. Here's some pics before I ask a question.














If you drink korean beer from a coffee cup it doesn't show on your gut....


New post for question

 

[harrywt]

I've got the t18 rebuild pages and the t19 pages from the service manuals. T18 has lots of pics, t19 has none! Anybody know of t19 instructions with more pics?

Anyway, I tried to pull the front shaft out. I located the milled off teeth of the synchro and I rotated the flat part down to the idler shaft gear. The bearing is free in the housing, I didn't remove any snap rings. Shaft won't come out, some thing banging into something that I can't see. I'll have a look with a dental mirror tomorrow if I can find the thing but I was wondering if I was missing something.

One can see from the manuals that there are a few more parts to the t19 input shaft but I don't see anything obvious that could cause the blocking from the diagram.

Cheers,
harry

 

[ihpartsjeff]

Knock the shaft out of the lower cluster. That will allow the lower cluster to drop down into the transmission. From there the input shaft should slide right out.

 

[harrywt]

Hi Jeff,

tried that. Gave me enough clearance to pass the milled of synchro gear but not the race behind it. I had to take off the snap ring on the input shaft holding the large bearing in place. I then popped the bearing out of the case and off of the shaft. Then the shaft was removable.

Fyi, a careful read of the t19 directions says to do just that, rtfm.

I guess they decided to keep the same input shaft casting and machining from the t18 and simply dropped it into the t19.

Cheers,
harry

 

[harrywt]

 

[harrywt]

Not happy about the galling on the lock plate






Scraped back junk in case a bit, silver under the brown. Gears look good, no obvious wearing through of case hardening. Gunky liquid in case was mostly water also, explains the rust spots on some of the gears.

 

[harrywt]

The large bearing at the back end of the main shaft just wouldn't come off and I didn't have a puller available. So I decided to cut the outer race with a grinder and pull out the balls and then pull out the rest of the outer race, hoping that this would create enough clearance, which it did

 

[harrywt]

So on the bottom is a couple of washers seemingly epoxied into place. Could be a magnet, haven't checked yet. Could be a hole patch but don't see any hole on the outside of the case. Will be chipping it off soon, stay tuned.

 

[harrywt]

So now I show that I am officially a bone head. I needed to get the inner race off of the main shaft. I thought I would use my grinder, I've done it before. However I am a workshop refugee here. I had to carry everything to this abandoned basement space so that the noise wouldn't bother anyone. The light was pretty poor and I was sitting on the floor and it was damn cold. No excuse for not being careful though. As I tell my son all of the time, "if it's going too easy you are probably doing something wrong" and sure enough I was happily hogging away and the race popped open and I am fat dumb and happy.

Until I looked carefully...

 

[harrywt]

I've made friends with the owners of a small machine shop we send contract jobs from work. A father and son in fact, they like my Scout and they are looking to see if they can fill in the "wound" with weld and then cut it on a lathe

 

[Robert Kenney]

I would resist the urge to weld on the shaft. It will never be straight again. You have enough circumforance to adequitly support the bearing. Doubt you'll ever know it had the wounds once it is reassembled.

 

[harrywt]

So I was too late to stop my machine shop from repairing the mainshaft. The sone told mr that the shaft have 0.002in of runout. I haven't asked if they measured it befpre welsind. They decided not to try to correct it amd I think that was wise.

 

[harrywt]

Well I've discovered that my rebuild kit doesn't come with reverse bearings, aftr I threw the old ones away.

Doesn't have gaskets for the power takeoff covers, doesn't have springs for the shifter rods, doesn'have a new oring for the upper reverse shaft,

 

[harrywt]

So I found all 74 needles, thank god for rare earth magnets!

 

[harrywt]

Counter shaft bearings, gears and install. Using a dummy shaft made by my friends at sam-won tek machine shop.

Btw, I would recommend making the dummy shaft 1/16 to 1/8 longer than the manual says. The front thrust washer kept slipping out while I tried to drop the assembly into the case. So I removed the keyed front thrust washer to keep the front thrust washer from being pushed out of the way. I dropped the assembly into place while pressing it against the rear keyed thrust washer. I then inserted the countershaft rod to slightly push forward the dummy rod. I then pushed in the front keyed thrust washer, and contimued to push out the dummy rod with the countershaft.









Dummy shaft coming out



Almost done

 

[harrywt]

The repaired main shaft. They told me that they measured 0.002" of run out of the shaft so they didn't do any correction. I forgot to ask if they measured before the welding also.

 

[harrywt]

So first gear is on!



The instructions say to find the thickest snap ring that fits. However, the kit did not come with snap rings of various thicknesses, so I snuck the sharpening stone out of the kitchen and thinned down ta snap ring the old fashioned way.



I had intended to show step by step but the frustration of not having the thickness assortment of snap rings and dealing with the sub standard snap ring tool kind of made me forget the camera. But here is the finished main shaft assembly

 

[harrywt]

I presently have a t18 and the mount has a z plate to mate the trans to the crosmember. As we know, the t19 mount point lines up with the crossmember. I ordered the t19 mount from IHPA and got the two poly blocks in the pics. They have metal plates embedded on the flat sides and have no bushings in the holes.

My question is, are the two poly pads all that is necessary other than the bolts? Just doesn't seem like I have enough pieces

 

[harrywt]

This picture shows bushings. Do I need them?

View attachment 27045

 

[FDChappie]

When the t18 in my Scout was swapped for a t19, the holes in the xmember were opened up to fit the shoulders of the mounts. 1 mount went on the bottom and 1 on the top. Long bolts ran through the whole package into the transmission. You will need the bushings. Something should be available locally that can be cut about 1/16" shorter than the height of the 2 mounts stacked.

Hint: get the bolts through the mounts started before mounting the xmember to the frame.