Scout II Ignition issues

Don't splice the wire just for testing! Your probe should be sharp and pointy enough to penetrate through insulation of any wire to get a reading. The voltage down at the solenoid being the same as at the battery is a good thing.

If I understand you correctly, what you're saying is that there is no longer a bulkhead connector on the firewall, but rather individual wires running through the vacant hole? Is this correct?
 
What kind of wire should I go for? And which wires should I replace? For the ones I replace where does the end in the dash go? Thanks
 
You May need to replace some wires at some point, but that has yet to be determined. I think discussing that now only serves to confuse an already confusing issue. Please proceed with the tracing and testing process. Tracing what was originally a blue 10 gauge wire up from the large lug on the solenoid will take you to the bulkhead connector on the firewall, but there's uncertainty about whether you even have a bhc, or if it was removed by a po.
 
I traced that wire all the way up to just under the steering column.
Just a straight continuous wire from the starter solenoid up to there. Is it missing a connection?
 
Probably, but that's not necessarily a dealbreaker. Lots of people bypass the original bulkhead connector, very few do it correctly. They were an aid during the assembly process at manufacture time, but have proven to be problematic for owners this many years removed. So now that you're on the cab side of things, the next junction for that wire is at the back of the alternator gauge in the instrument cluster. Accessing it involves removing the instrument panel cover and then removing the screws that hold the alt/fuel gauge pod in place. Definitely disco a battery cable before you do this. There's a lot of metal in the dash, and plenty of potential for making sparks fly.
 
I took off the battery cables earlier after having a good jolt the other night so no worries there. I have the wire going to the alt, so now what should I do? Thanks
 
Connections look good on the alt gauge terminals? No obvious signs of heat damage or po buggery? Ensure the hot contacts will not touch the dash and temporarily connect the battery so you can take a reading at both of the gauge posts. If they match the other readings you've taken so far, then disco the battery again and re-install the gauge pod back in the dash. Next, take a reading at the fuse block terminals up under the dash. Doesn't matter which terminal. Just keep probing until you find one that gives a reading. What is that reading?
 
When I test the voltage on the alt/fuel gauge and the fuse panel, should I ground one prong or just measure between the two terminals? Thanks
 
Not to jump in a day late and $10 short, but a couple well focused pictures might be in order. Just snap a pic of the wires going through to the cab. The one's in the beginning of the post just miss seeing the bhc
 
Hey scoutboy, sorry for the long wait. I've been busy with moving and haven't had much time to do anything much. Battery is dead but is charging and I'll post those voltages tomorrow. Thanks
 
Voltages on the back of the gauge were 12.3 volts and on the fusebox they were 12 volts. Battery is at 12.9 volts. And thanks you're right I've just been super busy. Wiring time?
 
Just for giggles, take another voltage reading at the coil + terminal with the key switched on just long enough to get the reading. No starter cranking. Just put the red probe on the coil + and ground the black probe to the engine block rather than the coil - terminal. Not sure if this is how you've done it previously. Let's see if there's still a significant drop at that location. The drops you're seeing in the cab aren't all that huge.
 
Battery was at 12.6 volts and the coil reading was 10.4 volts. And yeah I've been doing it that way no worries. I've got my whole weekend free and a friend who wants to help so I've got time to do whatever.
 
Okay, good to know. I'll have sporadic and limited computer access the rest of the weekend, but no matter. One more thing just to be sure I'm still on the right track with this. Can you test that wire with it disconnected from the coil? Sorry, I should have had you do this before. If you suddenly get a reading in the 12's, reconnect it and post up your results. If you get the same reading as before, my next suggestion is to trace it back as far as you can, even if you have to peel back layers of ancient electrical tape in the process. The pertronix needs full voltage at the coil in order to work properly, and its not getting it for some reason. There must be a faulty connection or some other issue within that length of wire somewhere. Losing 2 volts at the coil seems huge.
 
Last edited:
Alright I just tested the voltage with that wire removed from coil. Same voltage as battery. Good call on testing that wire. Is the coil acting as a major resistor? It's one of the pertronix flamethrowers. Thanks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top