Scout II Ignition issues

Hello, I recently upgraded the ignition to the pertronix ignitor with flame thrower coil. I noticed a loose hose near the distributor while I was installing the part and I can't figure out where it connects to. I have a 1974 Scout II - 345v8 - 4speed. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
don
 

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You should have a vac diagram on the cowl but there's one on here in a thread.

It goes to the other side of the carb to a t that connects to the temp control vac control.
 
It looks like you're holding the hose that is attached to the vacuum advance canister on the distributor. This should be connected to a ported vacuum source, usually found on the bottom front or passenger side of the carb, depending on which one you have. Also, for future reference, its better to start your own thread in the sub-forum that most closely pertains to your specific issue.
 
Alright, just went to start my Scout, and I can't get it to start at all. Tried starting it multiple times, gas is getting through the spark plugs were wet when I took them out. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. Right now I have that pertronix ignition with the flamethrower coil. And help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
 
Alright checked the voltages on the coil. When battery is on-10.6 volts. When being cranked-8.5ish volts. It seems to be the same problem I've been having since day one. Any more tests to run?
Also, wire going from coil to distributor-10.6. When cranking-made my multimeter freak out and shocked me. Probably nothing but both times, now and way back when, when the Scout didn't want to start, was just after it had been filled up with gas.
 
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10.6v tells me the battery has been depleted due to all the cranking you've done while unsuccessfully attempting to start the engine. Voltage readings from a depleted battery don't mean much beyond confirmation that the battery is low. If you recall from earlier posts, a fully charged battery will display a surface charge of roughly 12.8v at the terminals. That's where you begin testing. You should get a nearly identical reading at the coil + terminal with the key switched on momentarily. Be very careful not to leave the key switched on with the engine not running for more than ten seconds at a time. Minor voltage drop during starter cranking is normal, but 8.5v at the coil is insufficient to fire the engine. The starter must be turning over very slowly at this point.
 
The whole time I was cranking I had my battery charger hooked up. I used the 50amp start function to no avail. Just checked the battery terminals and got a 12.69 volts. Am I losing some voltage somewhere?
 
First off, I'd hold off using the high amp starter helper. If you're doing so much starter cranking that the battery is being depleted before the engine starts up, you've got issues. No sense in adding insult to injury by burning up your starter motor from excessive cranking without sufficient cool down time.

A voltage drop is a strong possibility. You can and should find out for sure. Start with a reading at the battery terminals when fully charged. Record that. Next, move down to the starter solenoid. Ground the black probe and probe the red to the large lug. Record that number. This is with key off and no cranking. Readings should be nearly identical. If not, there's issue number one. Either a connection is loose between the battery and solenoid or there's too much corrosion built up. Next step is to trace the 10ga wire from the large solenoid lug up to the bulkhead connector. Probe the connector on the firewall side, record the number and then move inside and probe the cab side of the connector. At each junction, there should be little if any drop. If you see more than a couple decimal points at any junction, it must be addressed. Let's check those results and we'll move on from there.
 
Not a stupid question at all. I just figured you'd trace the positive battery cable to that location. Sorry for not being more explicit.
 
Also very important kai...when you are taking readings, obviously the battery needs to be connected. But if you encounter any wires or connections that need service, remember to disconnect the battery before doing so, otherwise you'll be making scary sparks. The whole point of this exercise is to determine whether or not you have a voltage drop somewhere between the battery and the coil. And if you do, fix it.

Think of your electrical system as if it were a stream, only in this case current flows in both directions. The only direction we're concerned with at this point is from the source (battery) to the destination (coil/distributor). There are many junctions and couplings along the way between ends, any one of which has the potential to create a problem. You don't start looking for problems in the middle of the stream or even at the end. You start at the beginning and work your way downstream in a methodical fashion.

The first major junction from the battery is at the starter solenoid. So not only do I want you to take a reading as discussed previously, but I want you to be on the lookout for obvious wiring issues...damaged insulation, corrosion, exposed copper strands, loose connections, excessive grime etc. If you notice any of these things at any junction along the way...stop. Disco a battery cable and do what you can to clean or repair the issue. The wires down by the starter have been exposed to a tremendous amount of heat from the exhaust manifold plus grime and petro-based fluids for decades. This isn't good for their health. Heat damaged wire insulation gets brittle and cracks, leaving copper strands exposed to the elements. Hot wires melt together. It just goes downhill from there. Rodents have even been known to develop a taste for the wiring in long neglected, barn find scouts. You May get lucky and not find too many trouble spots, but I'd be surprised if you don't at least wind up pulling the wires at the solenoid off to clean up the contact areas. We want things clean and tight at every junction. If there's a question about condition, hit it with some light and post a pic. We'll tell you if it looks good enough to be left alone or not.
 
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The voltage so far is, battery-12.86 volts
starter solenoid-12.84 volts
and the wire doesn't go into any terminals it's just a straight wire through. I don't think much of the wiring is original it has a new harness and random wires going everywhere that I've mostly cleaned up. Should I just clip the wire, get a reading, and resplice it? Or is there somewhere inside the dash where I can probe? Thanks
 
I reread your posts and I'm still not clear as to exactly what is happening. Is it turning over at all or are you just getting clicking? What I'm getting from this so far is it is turning over fine but just not firing up. Meaning no fuel or no spark. Or is it not turning over?
 
That's a quick wire to replace to get full juice there.

When I had my starting and later battery drain issues I replaced all of the wires that connected to the starter and installed a relay switch to move them. It's night and day. The wires that are routed through loom next to the engine were all stiff and a little melted and had oil burned onto them.
 
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