problem keeping it running

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Hi guys! I have this problem with this 69 Scout I just bought. It takes a little time time start then when it does it revs really highfor a second or two then it begins to stall unless I play with the gas peddle to bearly keep it at a very low idle that only last a second then its off. If you can help me out gents that would be great! I will be under the hood in the morning trying to figure whats going on.. Thanks!!!
 
Engine and carb installed would be helpful...

Could be many issues...

Float set incorrectly / carb mating surfaces warped allowing gas to "leak" into venturi / fuel pressure too high...

Hard to start could be dwell / timing / choke adjustment / fuel leakage as mentioned above / worn out distributor / worn out engine...

My understanding of your post is that the engine revs higher "on its own" -- as well as fuel leakage, there could be worn out throttle linkage -- accelerator linkage to carb throttle lever / throttle shaft worn in carb housing / throttle lever loose on the throttle shaft... Vacuum leak(s) May also be a factor.

Condition of motor / carb would also be helpful -- like the vehicle sat outside unused for 10 years... Picture of carb linkage might help.
 
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Definitely need good pics of the top of the motor so we can see what is po-scruud and/or missing! Along with the details Robert mentioned.

We don't like to deal in general troubleshooting where we toss out maybes or mightbes!

Once we see what the big pic is, we can quickly home in on root cause which is more than likely more than a single issue!
 
Thanks guys! Im gonna get those pics for you as soon asap! I was messing with with it right now I could keep it going only if I partially keep the small flap on the carb closed>> will send pics
 
thanks guys! Im gonna get those pics for you as soon asap! I was messing with with it right now I could keep it going only if I partially keep the small flap on the carb closed>> will send pics

Your description of closing the flap means that you have to continuously manipulate the choke butterfly to supply a fuel mixture capable of being ignited in the combustion chamber.

That means a "fuel delivery" problem that May be simple. But if the rig has been siting for a period of time, the carb is gonna be grunged internally and the only way of really making it "right" is to overhaul which is no big deal at all! But...ya must deal with the entire fuel system as a package also beginning with cleaning the tank(s), servicing the plumbing/filtration components, and attending to carb mounting issues. Otherwise you will be constantly scruuin' with this stuff as one thing pops up after another!

Git them pics posted dude! Show us the goods so we can rip into it!
 
Alright here it is the first pics im still trying to figure what I have underneath if you can help that would be great I dont know what is stock for this year and type I have other which is black one ....
 

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That's a rochester quadrajet carb from a GM vehicle. Definitely not oe for your engine, but a common enough swap for 345's with either spreadbore intakes or squarebore using an adapter plate like the one you have. I ran the same setup for years on my 345-powered Scout, hooty...until I swapped a 392 into him.

The stock carb for a 304 equipped '69 800 would have been a Holley 2300 2bbl list#2977. Unless that's some trick rpt manifold, someone has swapped a 345 or 392 into your Scout.

One of the first issues I see is with the location of your throttle return spring. It should be connected to a point forward of your throttle linkage to provide resistance against the throttle rod. The way it is connected now, it is pulling with the throttle rod.

It also looks like you have one uncapped vacuum port on the front of the carb. That could be causing a major vacuum leak. It looks like the old rotten-ass cap is just laying there like roadkill on the intake manifold just below the port.

Like mayben says, we don't like to make assumptions, but with the amount of corrosion visible on the external carb parts, it's hard for me not to assume that the insides might look just as bad if not worse. Do we know anything about the history of this carb? Was it a j/y salvage?

How about a pic of the other carb you mentioned for positive id and comparison?
 
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I just sent in the carb for rebuild. I should have it back by tomorrow and on the Scout. Your right that carb was junkie inside. I dont know really too much about the vehicle the guy I bought it from didnt really know anything about scouts or mechanics for that part so im still trying to figure the transfer case and axles and all I know is that it is a 345 engine 4 speed manual. Is their something you need to figure what I got, just let me know what I have to take a pic of to find out... Oh yeah one more thing, ya know the little bleeder screws that are on the calipers? Well, is there a certain one I have to get for that? The ones that are on there are stripped> muchoz grassy ass
 
While you're waiting for the carb, if you haven't done so already, take that spring tension bracket that was attached to the driver side rear carb base bolt and relocate it to the outer-most water neck/thermo housing bolt location so that the throttle will close whenever you take your foot off the gas. You should also run a dual throttle return spring setup (spring within a spring) for safety.

IH used several different 4 speeds concurrently. There are easy ways to identify them, which have been discussed elsewhere in this forum. I'm an auto guy, so I'm not up on the differences, but a forum search would unearth it for you.

The t-case is likely a Dana 20, but there is a slim chance it could also be a Dana 300. Pictures of the back of the case from underneath would help in making a positive id.

I can't answer your bleeding question.

Edit...on second thought. Your throttle return setup might actually be functional as is. I'm just not using to seeing them arranged in that manner. The addition of a second spring for safety still applies though.
 
It would be over the existing spring if larger diameter or inside it if smaller. You connect both springs to the same locations.
 
Oh got it!!!now what could I use to clean the tanks? I might redo the plumbing im not sure yet it seems like the hoses are new but I not used to seeing rubber hoses from tank to mech. Fuel pump. Is that alright to have it like that or should I change to tubing?
 
Rubber fuel hoses have always had a finite shelf life, and with this bullshit alkygazz that we're being forced to burn, that expectancy has only gotten worse. The Scout II's came with vinyl fuel hose which is actually pretty good stuff. Not sure what the 800's came with oem. I would just examine it carefully from end to end looking for any imperfections. As long as it is still supple and free of checking and kinks, you're prolly ok to keep it for awhile longer.

As for the tank(s) radiator shops can boil them out and leak test them for you. That ain't cheap. You can poh boy it by dumping in some driveway gravel and carb-cleaner type solvent. Then treat it like a used rubber and shake the f...out of it. Then pressure wash it out real good and make sure to get all the gravel chunks out. Then make sure it is completely bone dry. You'll want to run two, clear plastic fuel filters also. One on the inlet side of the fuel pump and one on the output side. Your rebuilt q-jet will also have a new internal filter installed in the housing where the fuel line connects to the carb.
 
As far as that vacuum with blown off rubber. Where would that go to? Or is that just stay pugged? And as far as number 2 vac. Or is that even a vac.? Where would that go to?
 

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#1 will likely be plugged. You should have one hose running to the vacuum advance can on your distributor. I can't tell what you've got there from the pics. Your choke has a vacuum pull-off can. That is the gold-colored item on the passenger side towards the front of the carb. I can't tell for sure if the hose for that is intact. If not, I think it belongs to #2.
 
#3 is going to the advance vacuum on dist. I was also having problems with #4 the lil pin kept falling out of its place but that should be fixed by tomorrow
 

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The more I look at #2, I'm not so sure that it is even a vac fitting. I think that might be one of the primary idle mixture screws with factory lockout cap still in place. There should be another just like it on the other side.
 
Right now this is the best view I have from back but it looks like this is what ur talking about>
 

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Okay I got the carb back and put it in and it sounds like its pulling in alot of air.when I step on the gas it hesitates abit then it gets its rpm's up. Is my mixture off? If so where would I adjust?
Oh and another thing is when I start the truck it revs high unless I step on the gas and let go then the rpm's lower?
 
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