problem keeping it running

This air noise that you're hearing...is this with the air filter element removed? It's natural to hear more noise with the air filter removed.
With the engine off and some eye protection on, position yourself where you can look straight down over the primary squirters. Work the throttle linkage. You should see an even discharge of fuel from each squirter. If you get an unimpressive dribble from either or both sides, that means your accelerator pump plunger is out of adjustment.
By revs high do you mean screaming, wide open throttle or more in the neighborhood of a fast idle? If just a fast idle, that could very well be a function of your choke setting. These engines are cold-blooded by nature and a fast idle at start up and for the first couple minutes of operation is often desirable for a good warm up.
 
Im gonna have to check the gas squirting at first light but as far are the high rev its not if its floored more like a 3000 4000 range
 
That's pretty much wot as these engines red line around 4 grand. An acceptable fast idle for warm up is approximately 1500 rpms.
 
Hmmmm k what about this? When I got it running and I step on the gas and it boggs out, is there something I can adjust?
 
Well, that's why I wanted you to witness the squirter streams. Its possible that you're not getting a proper pump shot.
 
So did someone just "rebuild" this carb or simply make some kind of repair???

That is an early chevrolet application quadrajet. It does not have the apt system(adjustable part throttle) accessible through the bowl cover, though it might have that system which is accessed through the bottom of the throttle body. That must be set correctly and is done using an exhaust gas analyzer during the rebuild phase.

Unless the main body has been resealed using an epoxy compound on all main body passage plugs, it is leaking fuel directly into the intake plenum when not running.

Have the idle mixture needle heads been modified to be able to adjust 'em? If not, the throttle body and needles will need to be modded somewhat so that adjustment can be made, correct idle mixture adjustment is imperative for tip-in performance.

The choke pulloff functionality has major bearing on the operation of this carb. It simply must be perfect and the tension spring on the secondary air valve must be set correctly also. The pulloff controls the ability of the secondary air valve to operate and drop out the mechanical lockout so the the secondary throttle butterflys can open.

Nearly all choke pulloffs on these carbs that have seen extensive miles are bad and must be replaced with a new one of proper calibration for the particular carb part number application. There are at least five different types of choke pulloffs available still for these carbs and they must match the carb part number.

And...that means that the divorced choke system must be fully functional and connected also.

To test the pulloff, use a mityvac and apply a full vacuum, the unit must hold vacuum with no leakdown. Then...once the vacuum is released, the pulloff should extend in no less than three and no more than five seconds. There is an internal orifice in the vacuum tube that controls this calibration.
 
Alright I checked out the carb and it doesnt stream out of the carb injectors it only kinda trickels or spits out of needles. So would there be something that I could do to fix? The car turns on right away and then it stays at a good idle, just when I step on the peedle it stalls...
 
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