power loss, burning, lack of fuel...wtf??

Hmm. Ok. Are you looking at the list 0-7448 as a replacement? You really don't want the 4412. It will make things worse for you.
 
I don't know about reduced torque, but the 4412 will drink as much fuel as now and most likely a good deal more. Its a fine carb for the proper application, but that isn't a stock sv8 engine with an owner who's hunting for higher mpg.
 
Holley specifically said it would reduce torque making it drink like a 1000 cfm on the low end....what did you mean about the stock engine on the last sentence???
 
I just meant any sv8 engine that hasn't been extensively and expensively modified to rev and breathe more like an engine from one of the other makers. There is an extremely low percentage of binder owners who truly fall within that narrow exception to the general rule.
 
My opinion -- that 275 cfm carb is too small for a 345 engine. The carb is really a bit small for the 304 engine. The larger 0-7448, 350 cfm carb will make a big change in towing ability. It will have #61 main jets which May be a bit on the 'lean' side, but considering most everywhere from los angeles is 'up', the fuel mix ratio gets better (up to maybe 8000 ft elevation). The 'power valve' will be the #8.5, same as in the smaller carb. If possible, go to the e-1100 k&n air filter. It is maybe 3/8" taller than the stock size filter and will lift the 'lid' away from the base part. Additional air can reach the carb through that 'gap'. Depends on if you have enough space above the lid of the carb air filter housing to the underside of the hood. Do use the Holley base gasket with the 'full width' heat shield, not the gasket with the 'cutout'. That gasket is for the larger cfm 2bbl carb with the 50 cc accelerator pump. It helps if someone can help adjust the throttle linkage so the 'throttle plates' are really fully open when the accelerator pedal is at the 'floor'!
 
Here we go again!! Got the new carb...put it in with the 61 jets and did a test run....felt pretty weak, not much power at all. Thought maybe it was due to the new pedal feel, it was a bit "crunchy" before but we got it nice and smooth now. This morning I picked up the trailer and watched the gas gauge drop even faster as I barely pulled. Idles perfectly at 800 (too high for me personally) but its got almost 20 steady on the vac gauge. Starts right up, no hesitation, no bogging...I'm about to drive this thing into the ocean. :confused5:
 
Those are great carbs. Very puzzling that the engine would feel weak to you with that carb. It should be breaking tires loose every time you take off and running out to max engine speed smooth and strong. Your vac at idle is very good. You shouldn't have any trouble getting the idle speed down to about 650. Its just a screw driver adjustment. The excess fuel consumption now even worse with the new carb is bizarre times elevendybillion. I gotta think there must be something seriously wrong with your engine, despite the good vacuum, or your truck brakes are dragging. There has to be a logical explanation, like misfiring at higher rpms. I dunno. I'm totally perplexed by these developments. This truck should be a 10-12 mpg stump puller
 
I couldn't agree more scoutboy.... (funny your name is on my spell check now!! Haha) were gonna bump the timing up to around 12 tonight and recheck the throttle cable. I almost wish we would find something wrong with the engine or anything at this point to explain this mess!! Brakes aren't dragging, just my patience... Haha
I'll let ya know what happens with the timing adjustment, then put a 12 pack for ya in my will!!
 
Hey, did you ever satisfactorily resolve the questionable centrifugal and vacuum advance within your distributor? This thread has been going on quite awhile now. I can't recall if those two were ever properly addressed and I'm too lazy to wade back through all the posts to see if you got that all properly squared away. I'm sorry this has been so frustrating for you. These situations are typically resolved well before they get to the point of rocket science and brain surgery. 99 times out of 100 its a fairly simple process. Congratulations on being a 1 out of 100 special needs case.
 
Have you checked the exhaust system for restrictions? Is the 'flapper' in the passenger side downpipe free and opening? Any 'kinks' in the exhaust pipes or possible restrictions in the mufflers?
Did you verify the fuel level in the fuel bowl to be just 'at or below' the bottom of the 'sight hole'? What is the condition of the air filter element in the housing? What is the reading on the vacuum gauge at full throttle?
 
Scoutboy, yes, the advance is working..the issue was only when the metering block gasket was blocking that one hole which was allowing gas to run into the canister.
Bill, I have not checked anything with my 45 year old swiss cheese tubes, you all May know them as exhaust pipes lol. There doesn't seem to be any restrictions though. New pipes have been on my list but keep getting pushed back due to these bigger issues :icon_cry:
I've been on the top podium of the unlucky 1% for a long time....I refer to it as normal now
but here's an update...last night we saw that the choke was loose, my cable wasn't long enough for the new carb so we had a rod keeping it open. Also, the carb base plate had wiggled loose, maybe causing a vac leak. I was only getting about 1/2 of full throttle so we had to remove the stopper bolt under the pedal. Lastly we upped the timing to about 11-12 from 8. I gained a descent amount of power and actually got to almost 21 on the vac gauge! Did a run with the vac gauge in the cab and its acting perfectly.
The ride home was smooth as silk but the 20 miles did move the gas gauge a bit but I have the same tow today as yesterday so that will be a better test....some would be excited but us 1%ers know better hahah
 
This is sounding better. Some human caused contributing factors. Half throttle would certainly account for the lack of power. And if the choke had closed up some, that would throw your a/f ratio out of whack.
 
but here's an update...last night we saw that the choke was loose said:
If you look at the throttle 'rod' where it connects to the pedal linkage, there should be a clevis to adjust the length of the throttle rod to the carb. Maybe like 1/2" of adjustment is available from the available threads of the rod. You could replace the stopper bolt under the throttle so as not to damage the little nylon/plastic sleeve in the throttle pedal.
If you have upped the timing to +11 or 12, without the engine 'pinging', maybe the mechanical advance in the dist is restricted? Have you checked the mechanical advance with a timing light? How much advance are you getting? Reset the timing to '0' for this test - makes it easier to read the flash at the scale. Which # vacuum advance is in the distributor? Did you change the sparkplugs to the 'extended tip' with maybe a 40/1000 gap?
Click to expand...
 
Ladies and gentleman ...boys and girls...we May have progress!!! The throttle cable reared its ugly head again but when it did and it was reattached things seem to be where I thought they could be for months now!! Did about a 40 mile tow and she was amazing... I could have forgotten there was a trailer back there!
Bill, the advance is now about 13* btdc, which is equating to about 38* total. She just seems to like it around there. I May drop it back to 11ish because there was a touch of pinging. I was only using about 1/2 the pedal with the cable fixed.
I'm working thur-mon so well get some better knowledge soon.
Gas mileage is still at 8.3 but a number of variables....
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top