power loss, burning, lack of fuel...wtf??

Ok gentlemen, turns out the clutch is on its last leg...chalk up another one to not trusting pos, also the freeze plug is the coolant issue so well do that at the same time.....the water pum and fan are fine and there is not a fan clutch. So those 2 things plus a new rear main seal, ill do the plugs and valve cover gaskets and lets hope shes good!!
Any preferences on clutches and where to get for a fair price that are goo for towing and what size freeze plugs I need? Thanx!!!!!
 
Here are some thoughts on changing freeze plugs. You're not going to like it. Sailor jerry's first law of freeze plugs is that if one is weeping, the rest are thinking about it. Sailor jerry's second law of freeze plugs is that there are some that can't be reached with the engine in the bay and attached to the transmission. Sailor jerry's third law of freeze plugs is that even the ones that can be removed with the engine in the truck, driving in the replacements straight and true is a major bitch on some of them. Sailor jerry's fourth law of freeze plugs is that if you ain't got's no room for ta swing a big fuckin' hammer, you ain't gonna be drivin' in the new plug. Sailor jerry's fifth law of freeze plugs is that if you're already planning on separating the trans from the engine to redo the clutch, you May as well take the magnanimous opportunity this presents and cherry pick your engine out to throw on a stand. Changing out the freeze plugs with the engine on a stand is easier than falling out of bed. Just ask sailor jerry. He falls out of bed all the time.
 
My first law of freeze plugs is have the mechanic doing the clutch do them! I just don't know what size to get!? I'm getting brass. Any idea what size clutch? They have 11,12 and 13 inch listed...this truck is my lifeline for work and being down sux!!
 
IHPA sells a brass plug kit that has all the sizes to do the engine block as well as the cylinder heads and the welch plugs on the bottom surface of the intake manifold. That's really the way to go. Can't help you with the clutch size. Might just have to measure yours. I hear ya on the work rig being down. It sucks, but no real way to avoid it. Sounds like its fixing to leave you stranded on the shoulder before much longer. Got any friends/family that could loan you a tow pig for awhile? There's always scru-haul rentals too, but that eats into the tight profit margin pretty hard.
 
Yeah the whole thing sucks...uhaul says you cant tow with their trucks and home depot wont reserve. I have to tow about 25 miles total tomorrow, 50 Saturday, and 20 Sunday....I think shell be ok!! :icon_sweatdrop:then in for the clutch Monday they will pull and measure, May cost a bit more but at this point....fuk it....
I ordered freeze plugs from napa in 2 sizes. Ill return the unused, also getting the nkg plugs and the cork valve cover gaskets and a power steering hose....once all that's done shell probably blow up hahah
 
The standard clutch size is 11" which you should be able to do for around $250 for parts. I went with a hd 12" clutch in my 1210 travelette and it is a bruiser that takes 2x the pedal pressure. It also cost $750, but it will out last me. Your flywheel is not drilled for a 13" pressure plate.

And your really going to hate this. Tom's rule of freeze plugs is that if one has rotted... Are you ready... The oem steel shim head gaskets are about ready to go too. I'm 3 for 3 on that one. So have the engine pulled to replace the clutch, pull the heads and replace the gaskets along with all the welch plugs. Really! After that you'll have a good reliable engine.
 
Unfortunately I have to cut this rabbit hole short lol....the shop didn't even want to do the plugs so ill just keep my fingers crossed....sux I know but it is what it is....
Are you 100% sure its an 11 inch? Don't wanna sound like I'm questioning you but no one else was sure and if you are I can look around myself instead of waiting for them to figure it out. I think ill stick with the 11 if so, I put a heavy duty in my cj and it was a bitch.....I'm in la traffic daily...and I can almost do the job over for another 500$ lol
 
You just have to love those scruhawl scruuz. Don't use our pickups to tow anything. Don't put a Scout on our trailers. Don't put any furniture in our moving vans. F u, f-ing scruhawl scruuz!
 
I run .040 plug gap with electronic ignition. Just a little bit more than stock spec, but not to a ridiculous degree.
 
Well it's an IH with a po, so 100% is not guaranteed until it's in your hands. Will 99% sure do for now?
 
Ok guys, here's some pics of the plugs I pulled and under the valve covers....bring on the bad news!! Lol
 

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Plugs look fairly normal. Tough view of the valve train, but I don't see anything obviously wrong. Does anything jump out at you?
 
Thanks scoutboy ( again lol)
I was pretty happy with how she looked! Not that that means a damn thing! Plugs looked a touch white, no real sludge that I was scared to see. She fired right up and sits right between 5500-6000 rpm...( kidding...550-600) honestly, I'm on cloud 9 that I got it done! I will say that thankfully I realized the hose clamp fell off the vacuum hose to the valve cover right before I buttoned down the covers and was underneath the cover. Thankfully I took pics and saw it was on there before the covers went on. Scratched the crap out of the new paint getting the drivers side cover on too. Didn't realize the p/s pump had to come off! Heading off to a 70 mile r/t tow so fingers crossed!!
 
See the brown/white pattern on every other plug? If you lay the plugs from the other bank across from them, I bet you'll see a white/brown pattern. This indicates 1 side of the carb is a bit lean or there is a small gasket/vacuum leak on one side.

Looks ok under the valve cover. Good to see your making progress!
 
Hey fd, thanx, I replaced the vacuum hoses a few months ago and did the carb cleaner spray check and there didn't seem to be any....also I backed the carb another 1/2-2 turns and she's been running/idling perfectly.... How long will they stay white if it was an issue a few weeks ago?
 
Ok gentlemen,
heres where I'm at...new clutch. Rebuilt and scrubbed the carb, there were 51 jets in it and we have since upped them to 53s because the plugs are very clean and white. I wonder if we shouldn't put in 57 or so....thoughts? After some research it looks like the carb was originally governed, dashpot, etc but was converted to manual choke. Seems to be shooting fuel well, and the vacuum help steady at 18in. The cam was slightly adjusted as well. We also covered the fuel line with rubber hose and wrapped that with "heatsheild". Since it was the freeze plug leaking, we pulled the plug, dug a bunch of black crap out of the engine :icon_cry: and refilled with water wetter/water and coolant. She sits right at 700 at idle after a bit of a warmup. We also re installed the accelerator cable due to it sticking a bit. Ive noticed that she wants to shift at a higher rpm now if that makes sense. So I'm now shifting while towing at closer to 3500 instead of 3000. She runs very smooth, but on some hills she bogs down still but not as much. Sadly my mpg is still around 7. I know mpg and International are oil and water but with new plugs, rebuilt carb, cool fuel lines, oh and a makeshift cold air intake...it should be back to at least 10!!??
Should also mention that the vacuum advance plate wouldn't move in the distributor and the advance is set to 10*.....
Hit me with your thoughts!!!
 
No vacuum advance will kill your mpg. Don't mess with the jets until you get the advance working properly. Bigger jets will get you even worse mpg. What elevation are you?

Sounds like you're making great progress.
 
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