oil psi
- Thread starter Myhyryd
- Start date
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Which engine is it? What are you running for oil and filter?
Scoutboy74
Moderator
No offense intended, but fram oil filters are total garbage. This isn't just a hollow opinion either. This is an observation shared by many in the binder community based off of an independent study that involved cutting into a bunch of common oil filters to expose and evaluate the quality and quantity of filter media contained within. Frams were the absolute worst bar none. Next time you change your oil, consider going with a wix, hastings, baldwin, or even purolater. All are quality choices. You should see a small increase in psi by doing so.
IH sv8 engines by design will display lower oil pressure readings across the board than offerings from other manufacturers that you May be more familiar with. The acceptable minimum is a steady 10 psi per every thousand rpms when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Cold pressure is naturally much higher, because the oil is thicker.
The double sump oil pans on Scout II's are funky looking, but were designed that way out of necessity to clear the solid front axle on 4x4 models. I have no idea what the capacity of the pan is. The service manual states that with fluid and filter change, it should take approximately 6 quarts to reach the full Mark on the dipstick. There was a service bulletin issued from ihc back in the day instructing IH service techs to overfill all Scout II vehicles with v8 engines by one quart above the full Mark, which would be approximately 7 quarts. This was a bandaid fix to combat oil starvation at extended high rpm operation which is only problematic in Scout II vehicles with the double sump oil pan.
IH sv8 engines by design will display lower oil pressure readings across the board than offerings from other manufacturers that you May be more familiar with. The acceptable minimum is a steady 10 psi per every thousand rpms when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Cold pressure is naturally much higher, because the oil is thicker.
The double sump oil pans on Scout II's are funky looking, but were designed that way out of necessity to clear the solid front axle on 4x4 models. I have no idea what the capacity of the pan is. The service manual states that with fluid and filter change, it should take approximately 6 quarts to reach the full Mark on the dipstick. There was a service bulletin issued from ihc back in the day instructing IH service techs to overfill all Scout II vehicles with v8 engines by one quart above the full Mark, which would be approximately 7 quarts. This was a bandaid fix to combat oil starvation at extended high rpm operation which is only problematic in Scout II vehicles with the double sump oil pan.
Tiny Yokum
Member
Basically 10w for roller rockers.
Flat tappets need straight 30w or better, plus zddp imo.
You can also use 20w-50...
But, you need to pay attention to the oil specs...
Our old engines need more "zinc / additives" than the current new engines.
The "newest" oil spec, sm, does not contain enough zinc for our older engines.
Need to use oil with an oil spec sl
there is a discussion / thread on the subject in the oil tech forum.
Swepco oil (sold by ihonlynorth) is good and meets the specs for our engines (cost and availablility in your area May be an issue for some.).
For the "old vehicle crowd", there are a number of "zinc addivitives in a can" on the market though I do not know the pros / cons about them.
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Tiny Yokum
Member
I use 6 quarts castol 30w plus 8 oz. > zddp plus central, zddplus oil additive - home zddplus zinc oil additive
Makes for an expensive oil change, beats dry starts and tappet noise.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I have an opinion about how to get zddp in to your engine but of course I have an opinion about everything. 
first off more zinc/phosphorous/calcium is not always better. All known oil educated persons say more that 1400 ppm is worthless and in some cases detrimental.
Second, simply adding a fortifier to your oil is not the same as using an oil like swepco 502.
Others make oil with enough zinc/phosphorous/calcium to exceed any and all necessary engine demands but we'll focus on swepco products here. The chemists that formulate the products do so from more experience then the after market. They are also backed up by literally "billions" of real world miles. Most fortifiers are snake oil with no documented proof that they are what they say. I will refrain from naming names.
People have success using commercially available zddp additives like eos (GM) but that was developed for the mainstream customer who doesn't know how to determine what does and what doesn't have enough protection.
I personally run some flat tappet engines with more spring pressure then god and have never had a lifter problem with any of them and never use an additive other then prelubing the cam with good old black moly cam lube.
Cutting to the short strokes, just use a good oil, swepco in this case and trust the oil to do its job.
first off more zinc/phosphorous/calcium is not always better. All known oil educated persons say more that 1400 ppm is worthless and in some cases detrimental.
Second, simply adding a fortifier to your oil is not the same as using an oil like swepco 502.
Others make oil with enough zinc/phosphorous/calcium to exceed any and all necessary engine demands but we'll focus on swepco products here. The chemists that formulate the products do so from more experience then the after market. They are also backed up by literally "billions" of real world miles. Most fortifiers are snake oil with no documented proof that they are what they say. I will refrain from naming names.
People have success using commercially available zddp additives like eos (GM) but that was developed for the mainstream customer who doesn't know how to determine what does and what doesn't have enough protection.
I personally run some flat tappet engines with more spring pressure then god and have never had a lifter problem with any of them and never use an additive other then prelubing the cam with good old black moly cam lube.
Cutting to the short strokes, just use a good oil, swepco in this case and trust the oil to do its job.
Tiny Yokum
Member
swepco 502 is an additive, oil fortifier (improver).I have an opinion about how to get zddp in to your engine but of course I have an opinion about everything.
first off more zinc/phosphorous/calcium is not always better. All known oil educated persons say more that 1400 ppm is worthless and in some cases detrimental.
Second, simply adding a fortifier to your oil is not the same as using an oil like swepco 502.
Others make oil with enough zinc/phosphorous/calcium to exceed any and all necessary engine demands but we'll focus on swepco products here. The chemists that formulate the products do so from more experience then the after market. They are also backed up by literally "billions" of real world miles. Most fortifiers are snake oil with no documented proof that they are what they say. I will refrain from naming names.
People have success using commercially available zddp additives like eos (GM) but that was developed for the mainstream customer who doesn't know how to determine what does and what doesn't have enough protection.
I personally run some flat tappet engines with more spring pressure then god and have never had a lifter problem with any of them and never use an additive other then prelubing the cam with good old black moly cam lube.
Cutting to the short strokes, just use a good oil, swepco in this case and trust the oil to do its job.
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
I mention 502 but the caveat is for non oil company products peddled by snake oil small companies. My mistake for not clarifying this. I have total faith in the swepco line of products this includes 502 and this goes without saying.
Myhyryd
Member
Alright thank you for the useful information. Learn something new everyday! Pretty soon here I'll be making the drive from my house in fallon Nevada down to knightsen California with my Scout and Grass Valley is on the way so I can finally stop by the IHOnly shop with my shopping list and ill pick up some of that additive while I'm there. Thanks fellas!
Tiny Yokum
Member
what swepco's petroleum engineers consider a healthy dose of zddp > read again swepco 502 engine oil improver - International Scout parts
May not be the same as what I have determined to work for my sv engines through 20 years experience.
Therefore I prefer to add my own, undiluted zddp in measured amounts, to castrol oil (brand loyalty)
according to what has worked for me in the past.
I am not pushing zddp, my only agenda is to help others who are also interested in preserving and enjoying IH sv engines.
If you want the rings to seat good drive it like you stole it soon as the cam gets broken in! As soon as I break in the cam its on the road asap for some hard accelerations and decelerations to best seat the rings. My opinion so take as you want.
Myhyryd
Member
That won't be hard to do! Hardest I've driven it so far is leaving a pair of burnout marks all the way out my garage. Its mostly been in the garage getting tuned and modified and ready for the street. I took my neighbor for a ride to the gas station and back and I was floored the whole way there and back. Ill be visiting your guys' shop either next month or December and ill drive it down. Feel free to laugh at me with some of the half ass modifications!