oil psi

what swepco's petroleum engineers consider a healthy dose of zddp > read again swepco 502 engine oil improver - International Scout parts
May not be the same as what I have determined to work for my sv engines through 20 years experience.
Therefore I prefer to add my own, undiluted zddp in measured amounts, to castrol oil (brand loyalty)
according to what has worked for me in the past.

I am not pushing zddp, my only agenda is to help others who are also interested in preserving and enjoying IH sv engines.

Tiny,
you have a formula that has been very successful for you so no reason to change that. I'm not trying to dissuade you from that nor have I directed my posts toward you prior to this one. I have no agenda other then respecting ihon as the sole provider for this form. So when I state/recommend some product sold by ihon, it is because it is truly the correct one in the context of the thread. Nothing more. You will never catch me recommending any product regardless of who sells it if I do not in my heart feel it is appropriate. I suspect you would feel the same way.

The correct oil choice we will recommend here is: use a properly formulated oil to start with meaning one with acceptable anti wear levels under the intended uses and if so desired up those levels with known quality supplements.

Fact:
published data from reputable sources state max recommended levels of various wear preventive/anti scuff components that should be adhered to. 502 is a balance of more that massive doses of zinc (zddp).
 
Only weird thing I noticed is when I first start it I see a blue puff of smokme from the tailpipes and it does the same thing when I let off the gas in 2nd gear at a high rpm.
 
That puff at start up is normal for the old valve stem sealing method or lack there of. Same with deceleration sucking some oil by the intake stems. Stem to guide clearance will have an effect on it but never to 0.
 
so do I need to have my heads rebuilt? Or a valve job?

Wouldn't think so... As stated by Robert kenney, it is somewhat normal...

What is the oil comsumption? How many miles before you have to put a quart of oil in?

You stated in your first post in this thread that it a a "new" (rebuilt?) engine that you "revivied" after sitting. Did you manually pressurized the the oil system before starting - as described in a thread here?

The 10 - 30 psi oil pressure seems a little low to me.

Did you test the oil pressure using a mechanical oil pressure gauge that is known to be accurate?
 
No I did not pressurize the oil system before I fired it. Yea its a rebuilt motor with re-used heads. I have only driven it on the street 3 times for a matter of minutes. It spends most of its time in the garage right now being tuned and tinkered with.
 
Before making any decisions get a couple of thousand miles on it. Seat the rings real good and then see if you are still unhappy.
As robertc reiterated and I noted the start up puff is normal.
Get a mechanical oil pressure gauge on the engine , even if only for test purposes and see what you are really getting for pressure.
 
What rpm are you seeing 30# if it is at 2000+ then it is low. Lots of things will cause low high end oil pressures.
If you have a mech gauge, get a second opinion (another gauge and stick it in one of the 1/8 npt ports on the block right above the pan rail).

Sorry if you already posted this but who rebuilt the engine? What was done?

Remove the oil filter and cut the top off of it. Inspect the can and element for signs of bearing failure. This would be a lot of non- magnetic silver/copper particles. Non of these?

A few causes for low oil pressure are.
Bearing clearances larger then spec, main, rod, cam.
Oil pump gear to gear clearances big.
Oil pump gear to housing clearances big.
Oil pump gear to cover end clearances big.
Oil pump relief valve not set up correctly.
Oil pickup tube to pump oring incorrectly sized/installed.
Poor oil viscosity (40 wt on the big number will help)
poor oil filter flow some good makers of filters have been mentioned.
Low oil level.
Internal oil gallery plugs missing.
 
I do not know who did it or what was done. The po said he bought a rebuilt long block and put used heads on it and couldn't get it running. But in the back. Was a few extra parts including a melling oil pump rebuild kit with some used gears in it. So I'm assuming the oil pump got rebuilt. Ill get rid of the fram oil filter and run some 20-50 and get a new gauge and see how my numbers look and go from there. I noticed there is a small leak at the fitting for the gauge on the block above the pan so when I replace the gauge I will fix that leak as well.
 
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