multi question post

72 with 304 727 auto mostly stock....ok so I have a few question for you Scout all'knowers cuz im still learning my rig. I got my Scout in pieces so I never had the luxury of seeing how it was put together.

1.vacuum line connections? I took some pics hopefully it helps you understand what im in need of, im not sure where they need to connect to?

2. Kickdown linkage? Pics included, have I installed the linkage correctly? Also the rod that goes down to the arm on the trans has tension on it pushing back already,does it need to be adjusted so the arm is all the way forward with any or no tension at this point?

3. Trans? Pic included, there is a port on the bottom front drivers side of the case that has a threaded port, what is that for? Does it need to be capped?

Thanks ahead of time for reading all this!
 

Attachments

  • scout 001.jpg
    scout 001.jpg
    73.7 KB · Views: 608
  • scout 002.jpg
    scout 002.jpg
    77 KB · Views: 1,016
  • scout 003.jpg
    scout 003.jpg
    71 KB · Views: 423
  • scout 006.jpg
    scout 006.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 409
  • scout 007.jpg
    scout 007.jpg
    54 KB · Views: 364
  • scout 008.jpg
    scout 008.jpg
    64.4 KB · Views: 363
Never had a Scout with a slushbox so I can't help there. On the vacuum lines, the hose sticking up in the air (pcv) needs to go to the big fitting that is screwed into the manifold in front of the pipe.
 
Isuue #1 (vacuum) as seen in pic 6, this location appears to be meant for your vac advance on the distributor. Is it just my eyes or does it look like there is a potential clearance issue between the linkage and the hose running to the pb booster as seen in pic 3?

Issue #2 (linkage) as seen in pics 1 & 2...the slotted bar linking throttle to kickdown pivot assy needs a short, small diameter, light tension spring connected to the bar's hook tang on one end, and the small shaft with machined groove on the other. Once that is in place, the initial kd rod adjustment at wot should have the kd linkage nearly at max rear travel. You can test drive and dial in your shift points with minor adjustments to the clevis fitting from there as needed.

Issue #3 (trans) as depicted in pic 8...this is for securing the tf 727 to the trans cross member in d-series pick-alls. Just like the engine block casts, the auto trans cases were cast with multiple bosses to fit in a variety of platforms with different mounting points. It is n/a to your Scout and can be ignored.
 
Yes to the spring question. The hose that is loose on one end running to the pcv valve in your valley pan would attach to the port just behind your carb. Then cap off the other vacant, large port.
 
Ok...the other hose, the other port with a hose and clamp attached next to the vacant port is for the brake booster right? Ya I have not gotten around to getting a throttle return spring yet...
 
Thank you Danny. So I got em all figured out the extra port that had a hose attached on the back of the manifold was for the cruise control gizmo which I deleted so if anyone needs that assembly I have all of it including the speedo cables. Oh I do have a final question the port coming out of the passenger side carb goes to the dist port?
 

Attachments

  • scout 006.jpg
    scout 006.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 526
...oh I do have a final question the port coming out of the passenger side carb goes to the dist port?

If that is the only ported source, then yes. I couldn't see an alternate source in the pics provided, so that is likely the only one. You can use manifold vacuum for the vacuum advance too. Generally, vehicles of this era use a ported source, but that is an emissions thing. Just so long as you have vacuum plumbed to the vacuum advance. Manifold vacuum is sourced directly from the intake manifold. Ported vacuum is somewhat regulated through ports inside the throttle body. Did I just cornfyooze the hell out of you?
 
Hahaha ya u did but I think im getting it...? How about the ports under the air breather, one of those is for the vacuum advance on the dist? The port coming out of the carb lower pass side is for the evap canister (emissions nonsense)?the port for on top of air filter housing is for warm up? Am I asking dumb questions:confused: pics are always helpfull im a visual person
 
Last edited:
Sorry for that. No not dumb questions at all. The ports attached to the air filter canister are not vacuum sources. They are part of the original hot air choke assist system. I believe at least one of the ports on the canister is used to control a baffle on the fresh air intake snorkel. There was also a small diameter dryer vent style hose running from the top of the passenger exhaust manifold to the bottom of the filter canister. A vacuum line would have run from a vacuum tree on the passenger side of your intake manifold that has a temp sensor on it which penetrates a coolant passage in the intake. During cold start, the baffle would close off fresh air supply allowing warmer air from the exhaust manifold to be sucked into the combustion chamber through the carb. As the coolant heated up from the engine running, vacuum supplied through the tree would be affected in such away as to reverse the baffle direction gradually allowing fresh air to then enter. At the same time, a bi-metal spring in the heat riser which had been blocking exhaust gasses from exiting the tail pipe is also heating up, opening the baffle to allow the gasses to then exit. Its all a bunch of complex mumbo-jumbo that was derived in response to emissions requirements of the day, which made these engines run very poorly when cold, without these "heroic" measures. You don't really need to worry about all that, since you are now running an aftermarket carb which has its own self-contained, simple and effective choke control.
 
Ah ha... That makes sense to me! Thanks again for your quick responses ... Im sure I'll have more questions but for now ive got some work to do.
 
Ok guys so im back with some basic questions:

1. Oil capacity for a 304 with filter change and recommended weights?
2. Atf fluid capacity on a new rebuilt 727, and I got a connection for lucas oil products does anyone run it in their trans? Good idea or go with swepco?
3. Nss... I did a 14 circuit kwikwire , the purple wire from the fuse box goes to the stater post then down to the nss switch? What are the other 2 prongs on the nss for?
4.transfer case oil? Its just gear oil? What weight recommended and where do I fill it from and how much?
5. Im going to fire her up hopefully in a few days...I know I need to prime the oil pump first but do I need to have the motor tdc before attempting to fire? Ive never done it before so if im missing a step or 4 please let me know your advice is much appreciated. Thanks sean
 
ok guys so im back with some basic questions:

1. Oil capacity for a 304 with filter change and recommended weights?

@ 6 quarts to the fill line. As per a service bulletin from back in the day, Scout II's with the dual sump oil pan should run 1 quart over full to reduce the chance of top end oil starvation during long intervals at upper revs. In your climate, 20w-50 would be a good choice year round. Use a quality oil filter such as wix, baldwin, hastings, or purolator in that order. Avoid fram oil filters like the plague. They suck.

2. Atf fluid capacity on a new rebuilt 727, and I got a connection for lucas oil products does anyone run it in their trans? Good idea or go with swepco?

in light of my present "status", I will always pimp the products available through ihon first, such as the swepco line of lubricants. Whatever you use, it should be dexron iii backwards compatible. Add 6 quarts to begin with. You'll need several more on hand. Run the engine for a few minutes and move the gear selector slowly through each position ending at n. Always remember, 727 fluid level is to be checked only with the engine running and gear selector in n for accuracy. Add sufficient fluid to bring the level to the "add 1 pint" Mark. Recheck the level after the engine has reached operating temperature. It should always be in the safe range between the "add" and "full".

3. Nss... I did a 14 circuit kwikwire , the purple wire from the fuse box goes to the stater post then down to the nss switch? What are the other 2 prongs on the nss for?

you don't want a wire running from the starter solenoid (battery +) to the ns switch on the trans (chassis ground). That would make for an electrifying experience. The ns switch serves two functions. First is to provide a ground to complete the start circuit only when the gear selector is in p or n. The other is to complete the reverse lights circuit when the gear selector is in r, which is accomplished via the outside prongs.
Your kwikwire kit is universal in nature, but somewhat setup with a GM vehicle in mind, so there's a couple wiring tasks youll need to perform in order to complete the nss circuitry for the Scout.
I'll describe the circuits as they pertain to the factory layout. Hopefully, this will make some sense to you. There should be a relay under the dash with three prongs. If not, you'll need to get one. This is your auto trans relay. Think of it as an interruption of the purple wire between the fuse panel and the solenoid. It is identical to your horn relay found on the driver side inner fender. It has 3 male blade connectors. Viewing the connectors head on as an upright triangle, the top blade is where you will connect the purple wire from the fuse panel. Take another chunk of the purple wire and run it from the bottom left relay connector to the starter solenoid as indicated in your instructions. Then you'll need a wire run from the bottom right relay connector to the center prong on the ns switch at the trans. This wire provides the ground as mentioned above. Clear as mud?


4.transfer case oil? Its just gear oil? What weight recommended and where do I fill it from and how much?

the swepco gear lube can be safely used in your axle diffs as well as your t-case. The same cannot be said of more commonplace gear oils.
There is a large, square head fill plug on the rear surface of the t-case. Do yourself a favor and invest in a hand operated fluid transfer pump which you can insert into the bottle to draw from. One minute spent underneath looking at the surroundings will be enough to convince you that a gravity feed approach is not advised. It will take a skosh over a quart.


5. Im going to fire her up hopefully in a few days...I know I need to prime the oil pump first but do I need to have the motor tdc before attempting to fire? Ive never done it before so if im missing a step or 4 please let me know your advice is much appreciated. Thanks sean

be sure to read through mayben's old iron revival procedure, which I believe is stickied in the gas engine section, before you get too carried away. If not, I can email it to you. Because you will have removed the distributor in order to spin the oil pump with a drill, and because you will be rotating the engine by hand at some point whilst spinning the pump, you will absolutely need to static time the engine. So yes, place the scribe on the harmonic balancer at tdc or 0 with #8 cylinder on the compression stroke. Then stab the distributor. The cap tower location directly above where the rotor button is sitting is your #8 plug wire location. The remaining plug wires can then be routed clockwise around the cap from there according to the firing order 8-4-3-6-5-7-2-1. You always start with 8 and end on 1 with an IH sv8.
 
Last edited:
Damn...so I dont have the knowledge, space or tools to attempt all that so I guess I'll make my 72 into a planter! Any good experienced IH mechanics or shops around my area? Im in la verne,CA
 
Last edited:
Tap the brakes a second. I think part of the problem May be these multi-pronged questions of yours, no doubt born of a quest for efficient and comprehensive knowledge collection. The unintended side effect I believe, is that you set yourself up to be overwhelmed by a shotgun blast of answers. What's the best way to eat an elephant? One bite at a time, not all at once.
In quickly reviewing your question topics, we have one about lube, oil and filter. I know you can handle that. The next one deals with trans fluid. Again very basic. Skipping the wiring question for know, the next one deals with t-case fluid. No exotic tools or knowledge required so far. Returning to the wiring question, if you could study the factory diagram as it pertains to the nss circuitry for awhile, I know you would get a better feel for the minor modifications required to tailor the generic harness to your Scout. I'm assuming you've already run the harness for the most part, with just a couple remaining items left to button up. That's a decent accomplishment.
Which leaves us with the final question, and admittedly the most daunting of the bunch...priming the lubrication system. You need an end wrench to loosen and remove the bolt holding the distributor in place. Then you need to chop the handle off a long, standard blade screw driver and chuck it into a power drill so you can spin the oil pump. You need a socket wrench with socket to remove the bolts holding the valve covers in place so you can verify that oil is reaching the valve train. You need a large socket wrench or breaker bar with large enough socket to fit the crank bolt so you can slowly and incrementally rotate the engine by hand.
Rather than dumping this off in some mechanic's lap, I think you'd be far better served in reaching out to any potential binder buddies in your local who might be willing to lend a hand for the low price of adult beverages.
 
Back
Top