If I don't I can buy a roll of er70. So with that and my Ar/CO2, I can get away with welding SS? If so, life looks a little brighter. This morning I see my bushings just shipped from McMaster Carr, so probably by this weekend I can get to drilling and tapping those holes.
It isn't easy, actually. One gets used to working on vehicles, and then a forced sabbatical of extended time makes one's "tinkering" muscles quite flabby.
Mild steel is fine there.
get out the carbide cutters.As it turns out, the vendor can only do my 1/4" plate in HRPO mild steel, so that should work out fine. Should arrive next week. Because of the criticality of a motor mount bracket, I'll have a local welding shop burn it in properly. I have welded a 3/8" piece on my frame successfully with my 100 amp MIG, but that was that funny bracket with the ball for the clutch linkage cross-shaft. I had to graft on a new piece with a good ball. I practiced on two pieces of comparable scrap and worked that out. But in this case, I'll just pay the man!Mild steel is fine there.
with a lower than optimal MIG, bevel the edges so you have to multi-pass weld fill fillet. Also preheat the zone to 4-500* with a gas torch after tacking. I like mild steel for mig because it won’t get locally hard from welding like high carbon will.Also why laser cutting hi carbon steel is a no no only water jet if you plan on post machining the cut edges. BTDT
I cut out a section of the top of the angle and welded in a piece that closes the 90 degrees to 75 degrees (an acute angle). Turbo base bolts to this, and the base is level with the floor. So this bracket, that will uphold the turbo's weight, should be solid enough. Although I had done proper measurements, I inadvertently welded the "shelf" the turbo bolts to, an inch too far forward. That space is needed for the pipe to clear the back of the new vertical mounting plate. Easy to correct. At this time it looks like the turbo and exhaust pipe ell will fit as envisioned. Additional plan is to fab an additional stabilizing brace using the triangular exhaust pipe collar. Next details to finalize are to use a hole saw and cut out the dip stick boss on the oil pan, and relocate it further aft. In this hole I plan on welding in a nipple that will accept the oil return line, and it is vertically in line with the turbo's center section. Then on to crafting a pattern for a new intake elbow to cast in aluminum. But before I do much more, I'm going to clean this engine and repaint it!I need to run a pipe under the engine between the exhaust manifold and the turbo. The Scout II is lousy for this due to the double sump pan, and would require notching the "notch". So I pulled the pan to begin that process and saw a lot of metal in the pan. Took off a main cap and a rod cap. Bearings were already wiping, and grooving of at least one main journal. With that going on, the only thing one can do is disassemble, see what else needs to be corrected, and rebuild. I thought that rebuild would have been the last, but it was not to be. The vehicle unfortunately has had to sit outside in wet and now humid, climates (but under cover, for whatever help that provides) and that has taken its toll.
