I'm confused

Where do you have your meter probes connected while reading continuity?

Ok this May be easier.
Unplug line 14 from the ignition switch.
With the switch in the run position place one lead of your test meter, in the ohm range, on the switch terminal where you unplugged #14 from and the other on ground. You should see no continuity.
You should also see no continuity between the switch start terminal and the other 3 switch terminals at this time.
 
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That is then considered normal. The starter solenoid terminal is open to any power in the run position. I suspect you were reading a ground loop through the other loads on the accessory terminal.

Did you test the other 3 terminals to the unpopulated start terminal also?
 
Yes that's what I've been doing..

I just did a test that scoutboy74 suggested in the start of this thread.. I did it in the beginning and my test light lit up..

He told me to hook up the positive terminal to the battery and the put the test light between the negitive cable and the negitive post on the battery.. When I did that a week ago I got a light.. Now when I do it, no light..

In all my check and recheck I May have fixed something that I'm unaware of.
 
"he told me to hook up the positive terminal to the battery and the put the test light between the negitive cable and the negitive post on the battery.. When I did that a week ago I got a light.. Now when I do it, no light.."

that must be done with all loads off including the ignition switch.
 
I'd say that all systems are normal. Or you May have a wonky switch. One thing I don't like about the switch wiring is that they are haphazardly close to each other and the other metal parts of the truck.
 
Robert kenney said:
"he told me to hook up the positive terminal to the battery and the put the test light between the negitive cable and the negitive post on the battery.. When I did that a week ago I got a light.. Now when I do it, no light.."

that must be done with all loads off including the ignition switch.
Click to expand...

I was pretty explicit to him about everything needing to be off for that early test. Hopefully he was judicious about it.
 
You're welcome. Sounds like you're getting close now. Of course, it would be nice to know where or what the fault was. Mysteries suck, but as long as it doesn't reappear, you'll get past that mental speed bump in time.
 
Well I'm hoping it works too, but I'll be frustrated that I don't really know what fixed it.

I'll be sure to keep you updated, and if I do figure out what it wa is I'll post it..

That you so much scoutboy and you Robert for your help.
 
Well I hooked up the battery and nothing burned up, so I guess that's a good sign..
Horn works, rear blinkers work. (don't have front parking lights or head lights installed yet)

but here's something funny.. This thing doesn't have hazard lights.. But the rear lights are blinking like there's a hazard switch on..

I'm sure I've hooked something up wrong, but what would cause this??
 
Ok after a few days at work, I've had some time to work on the truck..

So here's the latest chapter in the saga:

there's another thread I started in reference to the turn signals and brake lights.. And I went through everything Robert suggested.. I went through the steering column connection to make sure everything was wired correctly.. I found a couple of incorrect connections, so I fixed those.. So I went to test the brake lights and I got nothing.. Tried a couple of times and still nothing..

So I wondered if I needed to have the ignition switch turned to accessory for them to work,

(didn't think so, but I thought I'd just try)

(btw, up to this point in the restoration I haven't turned the ignition switch to accessory or run or start with the battery hooked up)

(most of this thread has been my concern about a ground issue and I didn't want to burn something up..)


so here's what happened.. As soon as I turned the ignition switch to accessory smoke started billowing out from under the dash.. I turned the switch off immediately (was on for maybe 4 seconds).

That was two days ago, so today I torn the dash out again and opened up the wiring harness to access the damage..

Here's what I found: the only damage was wire number 27.. This wire runs from the accessory side of the switch to the instrument terminal on the temp gauge.. No other wire was damaged.. Not even the wire that pigtails off of the same terminal that goes to the oil sender light.

So I don't know what grounded out that wire.. Was it the gauge? Could a faulty gauge do that?? How do I check the temp gauge I have?

I know the voltage regulator for all the gauges is housed in the temp gauge so I opened that up to see if something was obvious.. But I don't know what to look for...

I'll post a pic so you can see what I do.

What do you think guys? What did I miss?
 

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I guess while I wait for someone to offer some thoughts on this, I can ask a few more questions..

Is the temp and fuel gauge suppose to be grounded to the gauge housing?

Would the sort have caused the senders to be damaged?

Can I bypass the cvr in the temp gauge with a remote voltage regulator?
 
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