IH Parts Americas 1-Ton Travelall
- Thread starter ihpartsjeff
- Start date
Bo185
Member
This is true it would be a bolt in option at that point as the IH hangers are narrower then what the gms with bushings are you either have to trim the bushings or run narrow ones to fit the IH hanger, the ihparts hangers would fix that issue and bolt on.
I mocked up with 4'' ones 4'' and I would have had frame issues I set mine up with 4.25''. And have some minor frame contact but only when wheeling it very hard. I also ran grade 8 bolts in everything I could.
The biggest factor shackle wise is with the stock divorced 205 and a 6'' lift is ujoint angle. Mine is alittle off at the pinion and I get vibrations above 50mpg with front hubs locked. I looked at 5'' shackles and it would have made the caster and ujoint angle worst imo. 4'' springs would help that area out and I hope to gain some at the shackles and ujoint when I lower it by removing a leaf.
Three bolts are a must with a fullsize. My donor 14 bolt was a cucv 1 ton so perch width was perfect in those axles. But I have the center alignment with bed problem. I will fix this issue when I swap in a GM aam 10.5 which is a 14bolt with discs and ebrake setup just the newest 14 bolt. And I will get the three bolt perches and have disc rear.
With mine I got a full 6'' front lift and 2'' lift rear as I removed the 4'' blocks and the truck had a 2'' tail high rake to begin with. My frame sets level. I need to get the arkansas rake back! Lol
I wish I would have got lighter spring rate springs. Especially for the front. I got bbc springs thinking heavy sv, they flat out suck. I think lighter spring rate would help even with the sv motor. I think even 1/2 tons spring would ride like a caddy but might sag over time.
Be carefully with the blocks as you will get more lift in the rear with 4'' on top and have axle wrap.
On your Travelall. You might try removing a leaf in the rear and adding alittle air to the bags and see if that helps with ride as well.
Yeah that was the rears. I opened them with a drill bit them used a reamer to get final size. For the front shackles I simply drilled the shackle hole for the GM springs. So smaller bolt on spring and IH bolt on top. Works great.
I redo mine when I do the axle swap. I though I had seen the GM mid 80s truck looked just like those. But I can fab something up.
I urge you Jeff, to put the spring hangar kit out first. I need to swap out my toasted old springs, and I think one of my front hangars is bent. I'll be swapping in some new springs I got form dan hayes. Some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift, iirc. Will I need to relocate or lengthen my shackles with the placement of the new front mounts? Tanks!
If I understand your question correctly the front hangers that I came up with still located the spring in the same position.
But to clarify what do you mean by "some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift"? Are you going to use IH springs or GM springs like I used?
Tonka Toy
Member
I'm going to use the IH springs that I already have first. If there's an issue with ride quality or whatever, then I'll consider other options. But for the front, the plan is to install the better hangar up front (thanks to you), and see what I get. And if the ride height works for us, then I'll get the 62's for the rear and fab mounts that gives me the right rake without a lift block. I might need some lifted springs to do it, but that's the plan.
PacificEd
Member
I'm interested in a set of the front hangers. Any word on how long until they will be available?
Excellent build thread.
Ok but the hangers I have designed are intended for GM springs, not IH. Not 100% that it won't work with them but I did want you to know that these hangers were not intended for IH springs.
I'm interested in a set of the front hangers. Any word on how long until they will be available?
Excellent build thread.
I just need to get going on another prototype to send out to our manufacturer. Lets say 6-8 weeks.
Pretty darn good! I don't have the horsepower that my white Scout does as the engine in the Travelall was built stock but overall it does well and does not start to get hot on the hills like my built up Scout's 392 does. I can tow in 5th gear on the flat lands. If I towed more often I would probably drop the gearing further to either 4.88's or 5.13's for a little better grunt but when not towing and in the open highway I can't ask for a better gearing combo.
MITCH NEAL
New member
How heavy is your trailer? I would like to tow with my 69 travelette, but my trailer is 6800lbs empty. Just wondering how it would act.
My travel trailer empty is 3900 pounds, much lighter than yours. However I recently towed a traveler on my heavy steel car trailer(roughly 7000# trailer weight) and it handled just fine. The Travelall drives great. On the trip to Colorado I logged 920 miles in one 13 hour stretch.
@ mitch--your t-ette should be able to handle 6000 lbs. Without any problem.
The going isn't the problem with any light line rig. The engines used were the almost identical with the loadstar engines. The problem is the stopping.
I have towed my equipment trailer with my 6000 lbs. Tractor on the trailer with my '65 3/4-ton t-all without any issues.
Unlike Jeff's t-all I still have the stock axles and brakes. Unboosted four wheel drums do not stop as well as boosted four wheel discs.
With that caveat understood, towing large weights with our vintage rigs is very doable.
The going isn't the problem with any light line rig. The engines used were the almost identical with the loadstar engines. The problem is the stopping.
I have towed my equipment trailer with my 6000 lbs. Tractor on the trailer with my '65 3/4-ton t-all without any issues.
Unlike Jeff's t-all I still have the stock axles and brakes. Unboosted four wheel drums do not stop as well as boosted four wheel discs.
With that caveat understood, towing large weights with our vintage rigs is very doable.
strange question possibly, but could you give us a measurement of,.. Say, the top of the rocker (base of the door opening), or something that could give us d series owners a sense of how high your truck is? Thanks!
Sorry to take so long to answer this question. Finally had the Travelall in the shop on flat ground to perform some maintenance. I measured between the two doors and got 25" from bottom of rocker to floor not including the 1/2" or so lip that hangs down from the rocker.
Jeff,
I really like this build. I would like to do some similar things to my 73 travellette. I have looked at this several times but I cannot see it. Could you post the model number of the air spring helper kit that you used?
Also, what did you use for the new a/c parts, you post that you had them in your stock. Maybe, I overlooked where you posted what you used. I also have a good box, but would like to change the compresser, condenser, etc.
Thanks for the help.
I really like this build. I would like to do some similar things to my 73 travellette. I have looked at this several times but I cannot see it. Could you post the model number of the air spring helper kit that you used?
Also, what did you use for the new a/c parts, you post that you had them in your stock. Maybe, I overlooked where you posted what you used. I also have a good box, but would like to change the compresser, condenser, etc.
Thanks for the help.
I checked my computer files, pictures and such but unfortunately I did not document which air bag kit that I used. All receipts from last year are filed away but if I do happen to come across it I'll post it up.
As for the new a/c parts I happened to have one of our ama(Arizona mobile air) kits in stock for a Scout II and used its condenser, hoses and compressor. We have our own in house bracket that we use to mount the compressor.
Jeff, great buildup! I enjoyed looking it over at rmihr, you done great work to it! I took a good look at those front spring hangers there, but failed to take a picture, and now I can't remember.... I'm wanting to do something similar on my '73 pickup, could you put up a better lit picture of how they are bolted to the factory portion riveted to the frame? I'm questioning myself how to do that, as that piece isn't flush with the bottom of the frame and it seems not ideal to bolt to.
When I get a chance I'll get you a photo but please be patient.
MITCH NEAL
New member
Jeff,
do you have any pictures of the piece that goes over the rear view mirror for the 69 d series? I am trying to replicate it, and any pictures with a scale for reference, or a broken one would be great. Those things are next to impossible to find.
do you have any pictures of the piece that goes over the rear view mirror for the 69 d series? I am trying to replicate it, and any pictures with a scale for reference, or a broken one would be great. Those things are next to impossible to find.
I agree mitch they are extremely hard to find. Mine was in a million pieces and got lucky that my brother Isa had one for me(although it was in a few pieces too but repairable). I'll get a picture of it in the very near future for you. If you do decide to make some of these I'll want a couple of them myself.