IH Parts Americas 1-Ton Travelall

It was now Sunday, July 8th. I was two days from leaving for oregon and had yet to even try towing anything behind the Travelall. I hitched up the travel trailer and made a trip down to the parents house about 30 miles away to get a feel for things.

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Monday, July 9th. After a successful test drive with the trailer in tow the day before the Travelall and trailer were packed for the trip.

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The trip to oregon went fairly well.

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After a couple months of hard work it was nice to really use the Travelall and even play with it some.

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After getting back from oregon I did have one major issue to contend with. On the long uphill grades when I was working the engine the hardest the rear differential would start spewing out gear oil.

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When I built the exhaust system I ended up mounting the mufflers a little to close to the rear differential. When mostly floored running uphill and all that fuel through the exhaust system naturally it was going to heat up. That extra heat would get the axle hot. So I had to redo the back half of the exhaust system.

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With the mufflers being moved the tail pipes had to be redone.

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With the mufflers closer to the floor I didn't want all that heat transferring up through the floor boards so a simple heat shield was fabricated.

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On July 24th I packed the Travelall up again with a bunch of parts and the family and this time we headed east.

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This time we left the trailer at home and drove to fairplay, Colorado for the annual rocky mountain IH rendezvous. We had a great trip stopping along the way at a museum in green river, utah.

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I didn't take any other pictures that trip except for this one. I couldn't believe how hot it was as that picture was taken in rifle, co(6000 feet elevation) shortly after 6:00 pm. The Travelall a/c worked awesome the entire trip.

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For the next few months I did nothing but drive the Travelall around.

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One complaint that I was getting from my passengers was how hard it was to get into the Travelall so in early December I decided to put on a set of rock slider like running boards.

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To install them I found it was easiest to drill all the needed holes into the frame first.

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Next the sliders were mocked up and everything was tack welded together.

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Next everything got welded up.

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I then sent them out for powdercoat.

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Once back it was time to install the aluminum treadbrite that I had cut for them.

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And this is how they look installed.

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While I had the Travelall in the shop one problem that I was having on occasion that I wanted to resolve was vapor locking of the fuel system. To get better protection from the heat of the exhaust I moved the fuel line to the outside of the frame rail and installed a new hi-flow mallory fuel pump.

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Well that wraps up the story of this project(although the project is never done). I have since been driving the Travelall quite a bit more as it really cruises down the highway well and has lots of room when hauling parts or people.

The only other change I have performed since is changed out the edelbrock 1405 manual choke carb for a more modern edelbrock quadrajet. For those curious when I went to Colorado I did average 11mpg for the trip which isn't bad for how big and heavy this vehicle is(and for how fast at times we were driving). But the 1405 kept giving me trouble with boiling over when shut down. I have yet to perform a fuel mileage check with the new carb but I hope it is only better(and my hot restart problem has been solved).

The nv4500 transmission is always a pleasure to shift. Even with 4.56 gears and the near 35" tall tires the rpm's at 65mph are only around 2000 when in overdrive but still decent enough for towing.
 

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I especially like the license plate. It's the peanut butter & jelly truck. It looks like you used blueberry jelly though.
 
I love that truck!!!! If you should ever decide to sell, please call me a couple weeks before so I can sell one of my children.
 
Man looks great. I had a boil over issue with my 14 bolt in my travelette. I swiched to amsoil and it went away. Also man I would swap to TBI it made a world of difference in my 392.

I have been really interested in the nv4500 swap. What shifter is that?

How much for a rebuilt 2wd nv4500?

Any more details on the swap itself?
 
man looks great. I had a boil over issue with my 14 bolt in my travelette. I swiched to amsoil and it went away. Also man I would swap to TBI it made a world of difference in my 392.

I have been really interested in the nv4500 swap. What shifter is that?

How much for a rebuilt 2wd nv4500?

Any more details on the swap itself?

The rear diffy boil over issue was resolved when I redid the back half of the exhaust. I hear you on the fuel injection and agree it will probably be better than the carb but for now I'm happy with how it performs.

The shifter is from advance adapters. We sell reman nv4500 transmissions already converted for IH input starting at $2500.
 
Inspiring!!!! I am interested in the leaf springs you installed on your Travelall. I have a '72 1210 that was a 2wd from the factory, but was converted to a 4wd, with a Dana 60 front end. How much are those springs??
 
This is an awesome build! It gives me much to consider and look forward to, in building mine. I am curious if any of these parts will become available to purchase? Those sliders and the bumper are awesome! And I'd be interested in a pair of those front spring mounts you made.

I'd also like to ask about that fuel tank. I've thought of installing one there, and having the stock tank feed into it, or maybe a separate filler. Not sure exactly just yet. But I'd like some more info on that tank and the install please.

I'm sure there's more, but I'll have to go through this posting again. Oh twist my arm! Lol!
 
inspiring!!!! I am interested in the leaf springs you installed on your Travelall. I have a '72 1210 that was a 2wd from the factory, but was converted to a 4wd, with a Dana 60 front end. How much are those springs??

They are GM leafsprings and we do sell them individually for roughly $160 a pack but they are not a direct bolt in. The fronts as seen in the build needed new hangers fabricated for the front. What I didn't mention is that the bushings for the front shackle hanger were some left over bushings that I already had and modified to fit both the hangar and the GM spring so they are not an off the shelf(that I know of). The rear GM leafsprings use a smaller bolt in the shackle and spring eye. I had to press out the bushings and install new ones with the proper dimensions.

this is an awesome build! It gives me much to consider and look forward to, in building mine. I am curious if any of these parts will become available to purchase? Those sliders and the bumper are awesome! And I'd be interested in a pair of those front spring mounts you made.

I'd also like to ask about that fuel tank. I've thought of installing one there, and having the stock tank feed into it, or maybe a separate filler. Not sure exactly just yet. But I'd like some more info on that tank and the install please.

I'm sure there's more, but I'll have to go through this posting again. Oh twist my arm! Lol!

Thanks for the comments. The sliders are honestly trail gear brand that we are gauging interest on. If we get enough requests we will make them available as either a kit or fully assembled as we have been working with tg on becoming a dealer. The rear bumper was a one off custom but I can have it made here in the shop. The front hangers I'll be having made soon enough. Either way best to call us for ordering details.

Not much more to offer information wise on the fuel tank. Its the only one we've done and what info I posted on the build up is really all I have on that.
 
Jeff, I will be getting with you on those springs. Do you also sell the draglink that you used for steering? Do have the dimensions for the spring hangers for the front? My truck has the rear spring hangers at the 2wd position.
 
Jeff, I will be getting with you on those springs. Do you also sell the draglink that you used for steering? Do have the dimensions for the spring hangers for the front? My truck has the rear spring hangers at the 2wd position.

Like the build says it was a off the shelf item that I modified. As for the hanger that is something that we will be producing and selling so I'd rather not give out dimensions on it.
 
It was impressive when I saw it in person at the Binder Bee.

I wish I had the time and resources to do something similar with my '65 t-all.
 
they are GM leafsprings and we do sell them individually for roughly $160 a pack but they are not a direct bolt in.

The fronts as seen in the build needed new hangers fabricated for the front.
Why did you mod the front hangers the GM mid 80's Rough Country springs I bought from you bolted right up with my GM Dana 60 and IH front hangers and mine was a 2wd truck orginally so it had a rear hanger in the 2wd position already.
I had to fab 4'' long rear shackles for the fronts shackles and that's it!

Also the rear axle placement its alittle fwd of the rear wheel well. I planed on reduein my perches but because mine were 1 tons they bolted with up with not need to adjust the perches. But I was going to use a multi hole percher to move the axle back a little in the perches to get it to fit the wheel better.

I wouldn't recommend the rc springs they are well rough riding!! And these trucks look taller in the front due to the larger wheel well opening. I think a 6'' rear with 4'' front spring would work best lift wise, it will give a truck slight rake and it will look better. I plan to remove a leaf from a fronts one for a better ride an the other to lower it a little.

what I didn't mention is that the bushings for the front shackle hanger were some left over bushings that I already had and modified to fit both the hangar and the GM spring so they are not an off the shelf(that I know of). The rear GM leafsprings use a smaller bolt in the shackle and spring eye. I had to press out the bushings and install new ones with the proper dimensions.

I simply reemed the GM bushings for the larger IH bolts. Worked like a champ took 5 min to do them all.


But I would really like to know were the rear upper shock mounts came off of?? I hate the ones I made the shock is pretty short in the IH config. They look like mid 80s GM's that what I was going to use. One day I will re due my rear shock for sure!!!
 
like the build says it was a off the shelf item that I modified. As for the hanger that is something that we will be producing and selling so I'd rather not give out dimensions on it.

Understood on the dimensions, I will keep my eyes out on when you start selling the hangers. Great job on the truck.
 
why did you mod the front hangers the GM mid 80's Rough Country springs I bought from you bolted right up with my GM Dana 60 and IH front hangers and mine was a 2wd truck orginally so it had a rear hanger in the 2wd position already.
I had to fab 4'' long rear shackles for the fronts shackles and that's it!

Even though the springs fit the front hangers I didn't like how they fit hence why I made new ones. I also was doing some r&d for future kits and the majority of the trucks I have come across in the past 20 plus years that I have been doing this usually have worn, bent or rusty front hangers.

When I first did the lift my 4" shackles bottomed out on the bottom of the frame so I had to switch them out to 5" shackles.

also the rear axle placement its alittle fwd of the rear wheel well. I planed on reduein my perches but because mine were 1 tons they bolted with up with not need to adjust the perches. But I was going to use a multi hole percher to move the axle back a little in the perches to get it to fit the wheel better.

I ran into the same problem with the rear axle being too far forward. It worked fine but I had one too many people walk up to me in oregon at the Binder Bee and ask why my rear end was so far forward. When I got back from that trip and had it up on the lift doing the exhaust I also took the time to move the rear axle back one inch. I fortunately already had replaced the perchs with the three bolt style so moving it back the inch was easy. For guys with stock d60 rear ends they don't have this option(without installing new perchs).

I wouldn't recommend the rc springs they are well rough riding!! And these trucks look taller in the front due to the larger wheel well opening. I think a 6'' rear with 4'' front spring would work best lift wise, it will give a truck slight rake and it will look better. I plan to remove a leaf from a fronts one for a better ride an the other to lower it a little.

My Travelall rides decent but I agree I wish the ride were better on the biggest bumps. I too agree that the 4" lift front springs with the 6" rears would make the rig sit more level but out here in CA we like that nose high prerunner look. Next time I lift a fullsize I want to try 4" lift GM springs front and rear and keep the factory rear lift blocks and see how it rides compared to the 6" springs.

I simply reemed the GM bushings for the larger IH bolts. Worked like a champ took 5 min to do them all.

I'm guessing you're talking about the rear springs?? I tried reaming one and immediately tore up an expensive drill bit.

but I would really like to know were the rear upper shock mounts came off of?? I hate the ones I made the shock is pretty short in the IH config. They look like mid 80s GM's that what I was going to use. One day I will re due my rear shock for sure!!!

I figured the IH 74'-75' pickups had the shocks this way for a reason so I thought I would go that way too. When I torched the hitch off I left a piece of angle iron that was being used as a crossmember for the hitch but was now doing nothing. Some shock tabs were welded to it and that side was done. The other side that I mounted inside the frame rail I honestly have no idea what it came off of. When working on another project I was looking for some short shock towers. I looked around in the dorman book one day and saw those and ordered one in. It didn't work out on that project and was sitting in the return box when I dug it out and found it would work great for this project.
 
Anytime Jeff. I agree with making new spring hangers, the factory spring hangers holes wear out. Jeff, '74-'75 rear shocks were staggered from the factory to control wheel hop. I saw that in a factory brochure.
 
I urge you Jeff, to put the spring hangar kit out first. I need to swap out my toasted old springs, and I think one of my front hangars is bent. I'll be swapping in some new springs I got form dan hayes. Some 1210's with about 1.5" of lift, iirc. Will I need to relocate or lengthen my shackles with the placement of the new front mounts? Tanks! :icon_up: :gringrin:
 
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