Dealbreaker74
Member
This problem is not rocker oiling, but getting the oil pump to prime. His drill-down-the-distributor hole trick isn't working for some reason.
I-4 and SV Engine Non-Oiling Rocker Assembly
- Thread starter Michael Mayben
- Start date
Thanx, Folks, I solved the problem about three hours after posting this....very simply and took less than five minutes;
1). Removed oil filter.
2). Found a very nice 90 degree soft rubber elbow in my new Mity Vac kit. The larger (though very much shorter end) is tapered. Wedged that into the 3/8" oil passage inside of the filter mount.
3). Ran a 1/4" i.d. plastic tube into the other end, then stuffed that one into a 3/8' i.d. clear plastic hose. Very tight.
4). Put seven ounces of new motor oil into an empty one quart gear oil container with the tapered cap on it.
5). Back-filled the oil pump with 6 oz's of new oil.
6). Reinstalled pre-filled oil flter.
7). Spun oil pump for less than twenty seconds at around 800 rpm's until oil pressure gauge needle started moving. Increased rpm's to around 1200 and gauge showed 28-ish. Had my friend turn the crank pulley bolt a few times a little bit until I saw oil. Rev'd her up to maybe 2200 rpm's and saw 50 psi-plus.
8). Long story short, got oil to both heads, then installed the rocker arm assemblies the next day and got oil to everything upstairs. So I think I'm good at the moment. Big day is tomorrow after I install new grounds (transmission/engine ground to firewall was like a #16 wire and completely Titanic'd) and the battery on the passenger side and finally hit the key. Good times.....I hope.....
1). Removed oil filter.
2). Found a very nice 90 degree soft rubber elbow in my new Mity Vac kit. The larger (though very much shorter end) is tapered. Wedged that into the 3/8" oil passage inside of the filter mount.
3). Ran a 1/4" i.d. plastic tube into the other end, then stuffed that one into a 3/8' i.d. clear plastic hose. Very tight.
4). Put seven ounces of new motor oil into an empty one quart gear oil container with the tapered cap on it.
5). Back-filled the oil pump with 6 oz's of new oil.
6). Reinstalled pre-filled oil flter.
7). Spun oil pump for less than twenty seconds at around 800 rpm's until oil pressure gauge needle started moving. Increased rpm's to around 1200 and gauge showed 28-ish. Had my friend turn the crank pulley bolt a few times a little bit until I saw oil. Rev'd her up to maybe 2200 rpm's and saw 50 psi-plus.
8). Long story short, got oil to both heads, then installed the rocker arm assemblies the next day and got oil to everything upstairs. So I think I'm good at the moment. Big day is tomorrow after I install new grounds (transmission/engine ground to firewall was like a #16 wire and completely Titanic'd) and the battery on the passenger side and finally hit the key. Good times.....I hope.....
Dealbreaker74
Member
Yeah man, that's using your noodle! And you didn't need to pull the pan down to figure it out...even better!
Winchested
Active member
Still have far too much end clearance in that oil pump and you might not get good oil pressure once your engine is hot.
Unfortunately the only gasket on this pump when I took her apart was a homemade one. And just one, pump body to the 1/16" steel plate. Looked like Stevie Wonder made it in second grade.
And no gasket at all for the steel plate out to the cast iron cover plate. I've never seen an IHC oil pump like this one before----and no Google results with the casting/IH number on it. Hmmmmm.....
a.conkling@hotmail.com
New member
This has all been very helpful. But what is the method to dis-assemble the rocker assemble so it can be cleaned and inspected. How are the stands removed and then reinstalled? Thanks
With the bolts removed, use a mallet to knock the towers off of the shaft. If the shaft is real dirty or has old baked on oil, some penetrating oil like WD40 will allow the towers to come off a little more easily.