How to Use WinALDL in Windows 10

Zaedster

Future Owner of IH Parts America
After hours of trial and error trying to get this ancient program to work on the latest version of windows, I finally got it to work.
So first you have to download the program of course.
http://winaldl.joby.se/ - I used this link and it was virus free. But of course bill hamilton's fuel injection kit comes with the software cd. Then open it.
It should say this prompt. (note, it May say for example com 3, com 4....etc)
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What that means is that the program is not getting the signal.
You can open it but it won't read any signals. So this is where most people just give up. But there is a way.
Click on the windows icon and type in ,"device manager." and click on the program. This should be the window you should see.
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Then find the tab that says "universal serial bus converters." make sure the ECM is connected to the computer Other wise you will not find what you are looking for.
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Serial is just like a old version of a usb. Using 9 pins and looks like the end of a vga cable. We are going to be modifying the driver to suit what we are doing. Because 3 signals need to be converted to two wires. (I am going to be showing you two different scenarios that May pop up on your computer, because it depends on what version of windows 10 you have, so bare with me)
so find the part where it says, "usb serial converter." or something along those lines. And right click on the text and go to properties.
This is what it will look like* **mine says it is working fine because I fixed it so ignore that, but sometimes it says it is working fine but it isn't....:crazy: windows 10 is just weird....
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So this is that part where every thing goes haywire. I've tried this on two different windows 10 pc's and two different things happened. When you go to properties, it has different tabs listed such as port setting and etc. So the deal is, if the computer "thinks" the device is working properly, it wont list that tab because it doesn't wan't you to mess with it per say.
But anyway, click on details and it the description of the driver should say,"usb serial converter." if not change it.
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Then go to advanced and and check "load vcp."
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Click ok.
And it should work.
And it May show these tabs on some computers, ignore the different format, its all the same.
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And this is what it looks like if it has the advanced tab. Change all parameters to what you see on the screen.
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Then you should be able to log data.
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If anyone else has anything else to add, please chime in. It is really hard to explain this because I would try one day and it would not work and then one day it just worked. Be patient with this. With patience comes reward.
 

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Just a little feed back on this.
I upgraded one of my win7 laptops to win10 just to see if it would work.
What I found is that I did not require to do anything other then as specifically noted in my Data logging instructions guide included with the kit.

The important things to note.
Winaldl must be installed directly to the C: drive and must not be allowed to load to the default directory.

Next, the driver is loaded.
You must NOT have any wifi adapter to be turned on or have access to the internet. Even if you do not have IE or Chrome or mozilla open. Your lap top must not have access to a wifi connection.

Then pick a specific USB port on the laptop you plan to use. DO NOT switch USB ports if you have wifi available!
Plug in the cable and when you see the icon at the bottom of the screen telling you it's loading the driver, click on it and it will give you the status and will tell you what and to which comport it is loading.
Ie: prolific serial adapter on com 6.
Once done it May have you restart the laptop.

Now open winaldl
Select configuration
toggle com port to match the port assigned
you should get an OK in the box.

Turn key on and you should get a box on the main screen with a blinking green 20 in it.

If not, toggle the com port number up and then back down to the correct port so the program can resync the data signal.

Follow the rest of the data logging instructions and go for a nice long drive.
Hit save table at the bottom of the BLM tab about every 10-15min just to be safe in case the laptop goes to sleep if you forgot to disable sleep mode!

HTH
 
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Anyone know where the files save to in windows 10? I log the files and it says file created but not sure where to find it. Any help is appreciated. thanks:confused5:
 
I don't think you read my above post or the directions that are provided with my cable.
Or you aren't using my cable.
As noted above:
The important things to note.
Winaldl must be installed directly to the C: drive and must not be allowed to load to the default directory.
In my data logging instructions it specifically notes that when the install window pops up it ask you where you want it installed and the default is filled in for you.
Most just simply click "OK" and let's windows install it.
THIS IS WRONG
You need to type in C:/winaldl
That way the program will install directly to a folder on the C: drive and all files will be saved in the same directory.
 
Hello Forum, first post here. I created an account to post. I am inquiring about which USB cables were used by Zaedster and Bill USN-1. I have an old homemade serial ALDL that I made back around 2001 when I was playing around with different binary prom combinations. I have been out of the CCC programming loop for a while now since I have been running off of my original custom burned PROM(s) that I had settled on since about that time period, and have been starting to play around with the old CCC again for nostalgic reasons and for fun.

I see that nowadays there is a USB option. I do not seem to be able to find schematics for building one, hence why I would like to buy a pre-built cable, preferably one used by one of the two of you, so as to not have to fight WinALDL with Windows 10 any more than I have to. Fortunately I still have my Old XP Laptop in working condition, and am knowledgable of Virtual Machines, but having true direct Windows 10 USB ALDL connectability would be the sh$t! According to WinALDL's web page, only one of the three reccomended USB cables seem to be available nowadays "http://aldlcable.com/", and I don't know the pinouts of anything I have found outside of WinALDL's recommendations.

Hopefully the two of you are still active on the forum, and great posts!!

*EDIT* I should probably add, I am using a 12 pin interface, I don't know if it would matter, or if you two were using 12 or 16 pin interfaces, but I figured I should throw that in.
 
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So I have turned off my wifi and downloaded the driver and winaldl, took all the steps indicated in the manual and I am getting this "Unable to open serial port COM1" error and I'm not able to read anything from the ECU.

When going to device manager and Universal Serial Bus Controllers I don't have USB Serial Converter as an option but I do have Ports (COM & LPT) pop up? Is there a controller I am missing?
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I have some questions about getting started with WinALDL:
  1. Has anybody got this to work in a Win10/11 VM? I'm a linux (Ubuntu) user and would prefer not buying another laptop dedicated to Windoze.
  2. What specific serial-to-USB adapter should I buy? Looks like it must support the non-standard baud rates from the ECM. I'm hoping for a brand and/or part number. I actually own a few of these for interfacing with network gear and I'm very familiar with the hassle of getting the correct driver.
  3. Would you recommend building the ALDL interface cable or buying the $60 prebuilt cable? I have a decent understanding of electronics and have been soldering for decades but maybe buying the prebuilt cable saves a lot of time and hassle.
  4. Are there other, maybe more recent, threads on getting started with WinALDL that cover these questions?

My ultimate goal is to get real-time data, specifically about the sensors and inputs, from my 1989 Blazer's TBI system to troubleshoot a rough/surging idle problem. I've spent a lot of time on this problem and have thrown a bunch of parts at it to no avail. I'm not interested in burning eprom chips.

Forgive me for reviving this 3 7 year old thread but I haven't found anything better on the intertubes for getting started with WinALDL.

TIA
 
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I am not sure how WIN ALDL will be more beneficial than a standard OBD1 scan tool. These systems are quite basic, and with a "decent understanding" of electronics, diagnosing the issue shouldn't be too difficult. Following standard protocols like checking vacuum lines, spark, and timing should help address your concerns. WIN ALDL merely displays real-time data, and unless you're planning on burning EPROM chips or tuning it (which seems unnecessary), it may not be worth your time. It might be best to re-diagnose your issues methodically, starting from one end and working your way through versus downloading a program that displays information that you will not understand.
 
@Zaedster Thanks for taking the time to respond and thanks for the awesome WinALDL tutorial you provided here!

Would an OBD1 scan tool do anything different than counting SES light flashes after going into ALDL mode?

From the YouTube videos I've seen, WinALDL has the ability to display the sensors' values in real time and the output didn't seem that cryptic to me. As far as understanding the output it displays, I'm confident if were able to get WinALDL working for my K5 I'd be able to interpret the values with the help of some googling (e.g. the output voltage for an O2 sensor will be close to "1" for stoich I think? long term/short term fuel trims are given as values above/below 128 I think?).

Besides myself, I have a mechanic who specializes in K5s and 2 other experienced ppl helping me out and it has proven difficult to diagnose. From what I have seen on car forums, idle surge on TBI engines is a common problem that's difficult to diagnose. We have been following standard protocols and checked for vacuum leaks, rebuilt the TBI, replaced fuel injectors, replaced the ICM, replaced the coil pickup, replaced the rotor cap, replaced the coil, replaced the IAC, replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the spark plug wires, verified firing order for the wires, blocked off the EGR (only for tshooting at idle), verified timing multiple times, verified TPS voltages multiple times, performed minimum idle air procedure multiple times, replaced the fuel pump ... tbh I'd need to go back to my notes to provide a comprehensive list of all the things we've done up to this point.
 
Ubuntu nerd here;-]. Before setting up a VM, try installing under WINE. WINE does very well with older stuff. Buy a first world quality cable. I'd guess that the surging is caused by a PID loop going into oscillation.
 
Ubuntu nerd here;-]. Before setting up a VM, try installing under WINE. WINE does very well with older stuff. Buy a first world quality cable. I'd guess that the surging is caused by a PID loop going into oscillation.
chatgpt says its usually the controller and not a sensor that would cause this. Does this mean I should look at replacing the ECM?

BTW awesome tip on trying WINE first. I've had some luck with it in the past.

Ubuntu nerds unite!!
 
It's just a SWAG on the cause of the surging. However I'd think there would be more problems that that if the ECU was bad.
 
@Zaedster Thanks for taking the time to respond and thanks for the awesome WinALDL tutorial you provided here!

Would an OBD1 scan tool do anything different than counting SES light flashes after going into ALDL mode?

From the YouTube videos I've seen, WinALDL has the ability to display the sensors' values in real time and the output didn't seem that cryptic to me. As far as understanding the output it displays, I'm confident if were able to get WinALDL working for my K5 I'd be able to interpret the values with the help of some googling (e.g. the output voltage for an O2 sensor will be close to "1" for stoich I think? long term/short term fuel trims are given as values above/below 128 I think?).

Besides myself, I have a mechanic who specializes in K5s and 2 other experienced ppl helping me out and it has proven difficult to diagnose. From what I have seen on car forums, idle surge on TBI engines is a common problem that's difficult to diagnose. We have been following standard protocols and checked for vacuum leaks, rebuilt the TBI, replaced fuel injectors, replaced the ICM, replaced the coil pickup, replaced the rotor cap, replaced the coil, replaced the IAC, replaced the MAP sensor, replaced the spark plugs, replaced the spark plug wires, verified firing order for the wires, blocked off the EGR (only for tshooting at idle), verified timing multiple times, verified TPS voltages multiple times, performed minimum idle air procedure multiple times, replaced the fuel pump ... tbh I'd need to go back to my notes to provide a comprehensive list of all the things we've done up to this point.

Have you confirmed the base timing without the computer is set correctly?
 
Have you confirmed the base timing without the computer is set correctly?
Yes, multiple times (assuming you mean with the timing wire disonnected). just again last night when I installed a new dist which includes (yet another) ICM. So far I've tried with base timing at 0°, +2° & +4°. Truck runs best at +4° base but idle surge remains at all values.
 
So far I've got WinALDL running on Ubuntu with WINE (@FDChappie I owe you a beer), mapped /dev/ttyUSB0 to COM1, got my laptop to recognize one of my USB-to-Serial addapters I had laying around from my network engineering days and learned that "160 Baud" does not necessarily mean that the adapter must run at 160 Baud.

Please don't tell me you used AI to diagnose your miss :ROFLMAO:

I use all means available to help solve problems, including ChatGPT and this forum. Time will tell which proves more useful :)
 
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