Holley 23XX Series Modular Carb Stuff

harrywt said:
hi guys,

just got me a new Scout and I need to rebuild the carb. I didn't get numbers but I have attached three pics. The carb says Ford motorcraft on it so I May have a po virus here. I'm pretty sure that it's a 2300 though. Anyway, what rebuild kit do I need?

Thanks,
harry
Click to expand...

Not a Holley 2300. That's a motorcraft 2100. Would have originally been attached to a Ford v8. Like chappie said, they are fairly common as swap items on IH engines. We don't have a thread dedicated to this carb model unfortunately, but if you do some lurking/posting on fomoco tech forums, you should be able to get detailed servicing info for it.
 
1. Write down the numbers on the carb id tag in your third photo.
2. Take that scrap of paper with the numbers on it to the local auto parts store.
3. Get a carb rebuild kit, new float, new fuel filter, carb cleaner, etc.
4. Rebuild the carb.
5. Reinstall carb, adjust as necessary, enjoy. :eek:
 
Ok, working with Holley 3-396 kit.
There are two power valves with this kit. The original valve (at left) doesn't have any markings and only one of the replacements have numbers, but there were double stamped and can't be read. Any suggestions which power valve to use?

Next, how do I remove the choke lever, so I can get the plastic filler off (can't be seen). It looks like I need to bend the metal at the top, so as to get the level out. Suggestions?

R6394 is the carb number
 

Attachments

  • DSCN4861.jpg
    DSCN4861.jpg
    33.4 KB · Views: 625
  • DSCN4863.jpg
    DSCN4863.jpg
    61.2 KB · Views: 586
Use the power valve with matching thread length, one of the new ones looks shorter.

To remove the choke linkage you'll need to remove the choke plate from the shaft. Why do you want to do that?
 
The one on the left appears to be a 2 stage power valve. I'll bet your jets are #51, or maybe 52. The one in the middle appears to be a 2 stage power valve also as a replacement. The one on the right is a standard one stage power valve and probably kicks in at 6 or 6.5 "hg. If you remember the exact number of turns or setting on the mixture screws, chances are the drivability of the rig or carburetor response might be okay. They were set to run a lean drop idle, and the 2 stage power valve was to give you emissions compliant power depending on how deep your foot was in the throttle. I'd go with the middle one myself. The modular nature of the carb makes it easy to change the valve or the jets without removing it from the engine or a in depth tear down to get to them.

Leave the choke dealy Bob alone, it's more trouble than it's worth to remove for what ever reason.
 
I expect the carb has the hot air activated choke? Try turning the choke flap full open. This will rotate the lever 'down', and make it easier to slip the rod out of the hole. If you intend to place the carb in the bucket for cleaning, the plastic piece should be removed but be sure it gets replaced at re-assembly. Don't forget to remove the plastic/nylon cam for the accelerator pump and note which hole it is mounted on and which direction the cam is facing.
 
bill bennett said:
I expect the carb has the hot air activated choke? Try turning the choke flap full open. This will rotate the lever 'down', and make it easier to slip the rod out of the hole. If you intend to place the carb in the bucket for cleaning, the plastic piece should be removed but be sure it gets replaced at re-assembly. Don't forget to remove the plastic/nylon cam for the accelerator pump and note which hole it is mounted on and which direction the cam is facing.
Click to expand...


Yup, I am dipping the parts in cleaner and I need to remove the plastic piece.

As for the carb, it is from a 345, 1973, 1210 pickup. I it is original.
 
Hey guys, I have a Holley 2300 aftermarket carb, it has maybe 1000 miles on it when I rebuilt the motor and trany. I just timed it to tdc as the book tells me to do. I have a prestolite distributor with points. Here is my issue, it stalls out when I put it in gear and then backfires when I drive it around the block. Any suggestions?
 
Did you make sure that you had #8 at tdc on the compression stroke? Rotor aligned with #8 plug wire at this point? All remaining plug wires routed in a clockwise fashion according to the firing order around the distributor from there?
 
It's lean, lacking enough fuel for the current conditions...

Is this carb new to you and this is the first time you have run it?
Is the choke operating untill it warms up?
Fuel pressure at the carb?

There are a lot of variations on the 2300. What number is the carb.... What jetting is in it.

Does it idle smooth?
 
Robert kenney said:
it's lean, lacking enough fuel for the current conditions...

Is this carb new to you and this is the first time you have run it?
Is the choke operating untill it warms up?
Fuel pressure at the carb?

There are a lot of variations on the 2300. What number is the carb.... What jetting is in it.

Does it idle smooth?
Click to expand...

I had it on the engine before I rebuilt the engine, it idles smooth but it backfires at around 30 mph. At stops it idles a little rough. I think it's running Rich I can smell raw gas when it idles. The box it came in says it is a 4412s carb.
 
How did it run before the rebuild? I can't imagine a 4412 ever running lean on an IH engine, unless the jets were significantly downsized at some point in effort to compensate for being too Rich at cruise.
 
scoutboy74 said:
how did it run before the rebuild? I can't imagine a 4412 ever running lean on an IH engine, unless the jets were significantly downsized at some point in effort to compensate for being too Rich at cruise.
Click to expand...

It was running Rich but no backfire. Shes running ok no stalls and goes good, going to take it to a buddy that works on carbs on Monday. Thanks for the info it did help.
 
Sure. I'm still suspecting an ignition issue, but it could be the carb. Good luck getting that one dialed in. I'm sure the last thing you want to do is buy a different carb, but your engine would be happier overall with a list 0-7448. The way it is calibrated matches the air/fuel delivery requirements of your engine from idle to wot much better than the overkill 4412. I know how it is though. Sometimes you have no choice but to make do with what you've got.
 
Hi Mike(?), I assume it's Mike you go by. I want to express my appreciation and thank you for your posts on the carbs.
I have an off-road Scout II for plowing my driveway. Wood post holding up dashboard and door hindge, seat cantlevered out over a blank space where floor used to be etc. It's a 1980, I think with what?, my mind and memory are kind of receding a little - I want to say IH 435 engine.

I found and purchased on ebay - Holley service guide 1. Also 2. You mentioned in your post. I also found and purchased the wells ck 540a kit. The hygrade kit was also on ebay but what I could see of the gasket didn't seem right. As I guess u sed.

My carb looks like the 2245, internally speaking. R 8780, 1700002 09, 1709. I have it separated into its 3 sections or units but haven't gone any further yet. On one side the concentric venturie circles are mangled 1/3 missing. Larry mcclure:)
 
First thing to remember is that poping back through the carb is lean or firing at the wrong time. Never Rich as you say it smells. These old iron engines don't smell clean even when perfectly tuned.please double check the plug wire placement. Sounds like something is out of place.
 
Last edited:
sawmiller said:
hi Mike(?), I assume it's Mike you go by. I want to express my appreciation and thank you for your posts on the carbs.
I have an off-road Scout II for plowing my driveway. Wood post holding up dashboard and door hindge, seat cantlevered out over a blank space where floor used to be etc. It's a 1980, I think with what?, my mind and memory are kind of receding a little - I want to say IH 435 engine.

I found and purchased on ebay - Holley service guide 1. Also 2. You mentioned in your post. I also found and purchased the wells ck 540a kit. The hygrade kit was also on ebay but what I could see of the gasket didn't seem right. As I guess u sed.

My carb looks like the 2245, internally speaking. R 8780, 1700002 09, 1709. I have it separated into its 3 sections or units but haven't gone any further yet. On one side the concentric venturie circles are mangled 1/3 missing. Larry mcclure:)
Click to expand...

Hi larry. Michael mayben who contributed a great deal of content to this forum, continues to be on an extended leave of absence from that role. There is a subject heading pertaining to the 22xx carbs, which I assume is where you've done much of your research. This particular heading where you posted pertains to the 2300 models which are quite a bit different. I'm sure it was an unintentional oversight on your part. Just a friendly reminder that it improves the experience for everyone if posts are attached to the most appropriate heading when possible. And sometimes creating your own unique thread works as well if not better than tagging onto a pages long existing one.
I believe your engine is a 345, commonly found in Scout II's of all years. Your description concerning the missing/mangled part of the carb sounds ominous, like you May need to source a replacement part.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top