Holley 23XX Series Modular Carb Stuff

I keep lookin' at that bowl gasket too kim, I ain't never seen one made like that!

Anyway, gimme a shot of the inside of the fuel bowl, along with a shot of the throttle body below the area where the metering block mounts. Then after the metering block is removed, take a pic of the surface where it mates to the main body.

Dam thang looks like it had jbweld poured straight in that solidified and then turned to mush and cooked off a second time! Yore not runnin' that rig on shiner or drip gas are ya???
 
The bowl looks similar, but only flaking on the side walls. Mike- I am looking for a bowl and a 6392 metering block assy. I will get the shots of the gaskets and other views you asked for. I am just dead in the water! :icon_crying:
 
Whoa! I just called Holley tech support and he said that it was a factory metallury problem with the castings! He said send it to him and he will send me a brand new replacement! There is a god...and it seems he lives in bowling green, ky!

Fyi: this happened to models cast in '05-'06. Just call them, give them the tower number, and they will send a full replacment!
 
super wench said:
whoa! I just called Holley tech support and he said that it was a factory metallury problem with the castings! He said send it to him and he will send me a brand new replacement! There is a god...and it seems he lives in bowling green, ky!

Fyi: this happened to models cast in '05-'06. Just call them, give them the tower number, and they will send a full replacment!
Click to expand...

No shit???? I've not heard of this or ever encountered this issue!

I told ya that holleytech have been decent folks in the last few years, that was not always the case in the past.

If you think the setup on the trash carb was ok for your motor, then make a note of the main jets that are in it now and make sure the replacement is jetted the same. The power valve should be a#65 if you haven't replaced it, that's always a good choice for the 345.

Fyi...the "tower number" the holleydude asked for is actually the Holley "list" number. That is the unique identifying number for that particular carb. In your case, that number should be 7448 which denotes a manual choke, 350cfm-rated Holley 2300 with a "center-hung" fuel bowl.

Good work chickadee!
 
I didn't do anything but send that puppy off overnight with insurance! Hahaha

guy's name was woody, and he said he would overnight flip it in 1 day!

Mike- do you know the number for the carb with the electronic choke? My truck never had a manual choke setup. The hole is in the dash, yet no cable, etc.

Thanks for the numbers!

I checked out the jets when I took them off so I didn't get them mixed up and they were the same. I think they were 61? Does this sound right?
 
super wench said:
I didn't do anything but send that puppy off overnight with insurance! Hahaha

guy's name was woody, and he said he would overnight flip it in 1 day!

Mike- do you know the number for the carb with the electronic choke? My truck never had a manual choke setup. The hole is in the dash, yet no cable, etc.

Thanks for the numbers!

I checked out the jets when I took them off so I didn't get them mixed up and they were the same. I think they were 61? Does this sound right?
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I have talked with woody before, he's one of the "older" guys who does know stuff about the old Holley corp. Products prior to the bankruptcy/selloff around 1988. And he knows the oem stuff like your original 2210/2245! You lucked out all around with that phone call!

That carb is only available with manual choke as you noted. The only Holley choke conversion that will work on it is: hly 45-223 for a carburetor with an internal vacuum source.

The hot feed to the positive terminal on the choke cap must be an ignition switched b+ that is continuous when the engine is running. Don't be tempted to connect to the coil positive terminal, that is not a proper connection point and can lead to several problems down the line.

A 61 main jet set is what the spec for that carb list number is! For use with the older "real" gasoline, I think those were a bit Rich most of time. But with the forced use now of e10, the jetting should be just right.
 
Yes, he was very straight forward and didn't bs about replacing the whole dang thing! He offered this when I asked if I could purchase the metering block and tank, which was doubly good!

I think I purchased the elec choke since I didn't have the set-up. I'd better call and make sure I get that back! Glad you mentioned it! I ran my power from the windshield wiper. I read that somene did this as well, and it has constant power. The only draw-back per a friend of mine is how much power the wipers need (larger draw?).

Mike-as always, you are a wealth of information! I am proud to be kin to someone of the like of you and such and thangs! :ihih:
 
Waaaay back when, I suggested the easiest location to use to power up the choke on a Scout II was tapping the feed to the wiper motor.

Also...the wire loom that runs down the top of the intake manifold on the oem Scout II harness usually (but not always) has a switch-controlled b+ point also that May be dead-headed inside the split-loom. That was used on some models for the ignition primary feed, and on some models to power a thermo-control for the divorced choke (normally kalifornikate models only). So ya might look there and use your test light to see if ya have a pigtail already that makes a perfect connection point.

Once you git this episode worked out, don't you dare disappear on me agin!

On a more personal note, can ya believe my daughter is now carrying the city mail route there in clarksville where yore people are???
 
Holy cow! That is just wild! Send me a pm of her name. My mother still lives in the house that I grew up in inside the little town! I bet she knows her!

I rewired my truck last year (very long and arduous process, but bomber, nonetheless). I now have no extra wires in my loom. It's kind of nice, and I know all of my circuits like the back of my hand now! I would work on it for a weekend, off for 4 months...hence the truck sitting for way too long! I am totally psyched to get her back on the road! I bought land next to mine and have been really using her as a farm vehicle until the major projects are done. The dozer did most of the work (and worked me like a dog for a week). I then used my f250 diesel (last year for the IH engine) to spread seed and fertilizer all over it! If you come down in the winter, I might host a campout at the new place. It was a quarry that I am now building into an arena!

I am here to stay, as you can see! We have hookups for campers, etc., so come one, come all!
 
Probably should have posted here first :icon_confused:

I have a carb that came with my Scout.
It was in a Holley box and had been used but has the Holley reman. Stickers still on it.
The one covering the list # read by keith and 2846-000000
I removed this sticker and under is stamped list 6391 with the IH # above 428080-091 the sticker on the left reads 3257aa and 2826-270210
the box also had the core tag and warranty tag stating part # 64-3257 dist.# 0000573025
any thoughts what kit would be right? This carb has been sitting for at least 7 years and I`d like to go through it and put a kit in.
 
Keep your original thread intact for assistance with your mixer. Since the "reman" list number is not a match for the oem core, that one does not fit the normal pattern.
 
Hi, it seems I have the same carb as in jon's 2-barrel carb service thread. The Holley 2300, list 4306, 379473-c91. I posted some pictures of the pickup on reader's ride's, but there sits some shitty four barrel edelbrock on the 304. They tossed the Holley out because of a constant fuel flow problem. I took it apart to see how the float bowl is doing and I found out that someone made gaskets from a thin paper. One of them was torn. So what I need is a propper rebuilt kit, since there are so many kinds of gaskets and just in case I would like a brass float.

The thing is I need some decent store, which is willing to ship overseas. I have a good experience with the rockauto, but I haven't found stuff like this there.

The carb had done about 10k miles back in a day, but it hasn't been driven for a long time now:
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I thought this would be the first step to reassemble the carb before putting it on a car and before doing any further adjustments.

Thanks, martin
 
I haven't had time to respond to your project post regarding the hotdog project martin.

The Holley kit part number, 37-1543 will work on your carburetor. Those should be available through summit and I believe they will ship to europe (for a price). Unless things have changed recently with rockauto, they are not a distributor for Holley products as far as the actual Holley-packaged items from Holley performance.

That particular kit is not an exact item made for your particular Holley list number carb, but will certainly work as long as you properly match up the gaskets.

I fully understand the problems you face regarding service parts for this stuff in your country, it's always amazing that you folks can keep this "u.s." stuff alive after 35+ years! And the shipping costs and duties normally far exceed the actual cost of the parts themselves.
 
Ok, thank you, this "u.s." stuff is the only stuff, that is worth keeping alive for 35+ years and that won't disintegrate into pieces over winter.

And what about the float? Will 116-4 work in my carb?

Thanks, martin
 
m2rtin said:
ok, thank you, this "u.s." stuff is the only stuff, that is worth keeping alive for 35+ years and that won't disintegrate into pieces over winter.

And what about the float? Will 116-4 work in my carb?

Thanks, martin
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Yes, the 116-4 float is what you need!

Sorry I didn't mention that earlier, I can see the "red" (actually brown) oem nitrophyl float is still in your core carb!

That carb kit will also contain a #65 single stage power valve which will be just fine for your application.

Those "blue" gaskets are the so-called "non-stick" items that Holley has used for several years, that blue coating is actually a form of neoprene and seal extremely well!
 
So I purchased the 116-4 float and it arrived with a liquid splashing in it! I tried it in the sink, but no bubbles came out of it, though. It seems to be trapped inside. Is it some sort of a counterweight?... Float is not supposed to have fluid inside of it!...right?
 
m2rtin said:
so I purchased the 116-4 float and it arrived with a liquid splashing in it! I tried it in the sink, but no bubbles came out of it, though. It seems to be trapped inside. Is it some sort of a counterweight?... Float is not supposed to have fluid inside of it!...right?
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what?????

Was that a new brass float in a sealed Holley bubblepak package???? No way it could have liquid in it! I use several of those a week normally!

This must have been one more in a long line of ebay scams!!

If anything is inside it won't have the required buoyancy to operate correctly.

The correct weight for that brass float is 18.2g +/- 0.2g.

The correct weight for a black nitrophyl float is 15.5g +/- 0.2g. I have a few new red nitrophyl floats (nos in IH packaging) also, they weigh exactly the same as the black ones.

The float arm on each type float is bent at a different angle to compensate for the weight difference and buoyancy characteristics between the two materials. Do not try and bend the arms to match each other, that won't be correct in the end.
 
That is correct, ebay scam indeed. I'm about to try to redrill the hole in the red circle below, get rid of the liquid and solder it back to waterproof condition!

cdsc02107.jpg


That's anywhere near ok mass, right?

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It was wrapped in a transparent tape...unused, unopened and stuff, is anyone having a laugh, now?...naw, in his defence though, he stood up to it alright and sent me a refund.

But what if I didn't find out there was something splashing in it? I mean it would be like the old nitrophyl float soaked a bit, right? Would it allow more fuel into the bowl and possibly overfill the carburetor causing a realy Rich fuel mixture?
 
m2rtin said:
that is correct, ebay scam indeed. I'm about to try to redrill the hole in the red circle below, get rid of the liquid and solder it back to waterproof condition!

cdsc02107.jpg


That's anywhere near ok mass, right?

dsc02096.jpg

dsc02097.jpg

dsc02098.jpg


It was wrapped in a transparent tape...unused, unopened and stuff, is anyone having a laugh, now?...naw, in his defence though, he stood up to it alright and sent me a refund.

But what if I didn't find out there was something splashing in it? I mean it would be like the old nitrophyl float soaked a bit, right? Would it allow more fuel into the bowl and possibly overfill the carburetor causing a realy Rich fuel mixture?
Click to expand...

Sorry I totally overlooked your most recent post to this thread !!

But you have already figured out the answer!

Yes...21g in mass for the brass float is huge! No matter how you tried to adjust the fuel level, it would flood continuously as the float is significantly too heavy to be able to control fuel level against the fuel pump pressure.

Nice work!
 
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