Last things first...
The rpt aluminum manifold is only manufactured in a 4v configuration, for the 345/392 application there is a spreadbore version...and a squarebore version mounting flange available.
The squarebore version could be used with a 2v carb of the proper configuration if an adapter is also incorporated. In fact, I'll be doing just that in the near future on my 392 as I play around with various performance/economy induction system and ignition system variations.
The adapter would add about 3/4" overall height to the system, so careful selection of an aftermarket air cleaner would allow that combo to fit under the hood of the sii with the oem body position.
Would a 2v carb on the rpt manifold provide any performance/milage increase? Who knows, it hasn't been tried yet afaik! But we will sometime this fall!
If I had to do my personal rpt manifold install all over again, I would use the spreadbore version. Mike Ismail tried to talk me into that but since I'm heavily vested in squarebore carbs and all, I declined. That was stoopid on my part! With the myriad number of adapters out there that also serve as heat dams, if I'd used spreadbore, then any carb combo would be feasible now and in the future!
12*btdc base timing is the perfect starting point for performance tuning of the 304/345 motors, a 392 can't use that much advance! And that is with oem compression ratio and on "regular" grade fuel.
A round figure for the ihon/Holley 2300 centerhung carb conversion kit is $500 plus shipping (approx $15). And that price includes a custom-installed electric choke kit which no other vendor does for the customer! In base form, that carb is only available with a manual choke configuration. And it will be jetted and all adjustments made as close as can be for your application, you would have to make the final idle mixture and idle speed adjustments based upon your engine needs! Same as on an oem carb.
This setup is not "smog legal" in any form, and cannot be made smog-legal in the state in which you reside! Disclaimer: this conversion kit is for off highway use only!
no carburetor setup can effectively deal with the range of operational altitude that you describe without jetting changes. But a proper setup, using a two stage power valve (Holley modular carb only) can certainly make the setup usable. And I promise...if it's set up for best drivability at your residential altitude, it won't be optimum for say 7,000ft. And visaversa! But it can be "usable"! Can't have it both ways at the same time!
For determining the blaster II ignition coil resistance...simply use an accurate vom and place one probe on the positive terminal, and the other probe on the negative terminal. Then write down the resulting reading! A digital instrument is far more accurate for doing this since the resistance value is extremely low!
Do exactly the same thing regarding the ballast resistor you have. Those items do not have any kind of "polarity" so just check between the two terminals. Write down and post that figure also.
There are several different oem wiring configurations that were used in Scout II from inception through about 1977. Some of the differences are not shown in the wiring schematics in the service manuals! But I can talk ya through exactly how to wire the system properly if in fact it currently is not. Your wiring harness May have been configured to use both a point-distributor system and an oem gold box system, obviously yours was since it has the gold box connectors you describe. And some sii rigs were config'd with the prestolite electronic sparkmaker oem also, some had gold box...wiring is different for each!
And you need to verify that currently the coil feed to the positive terminal is or is not a resistive wire element. The oem resistive wire element will be an "ivory" color vinyl insulation on a "stiff" inner twisted conductor (iconel-type material, not copper wire), with a woven fiberglas overbraid for heat protection. Strip back the outer wiring loom material and verify that wire all the way back to the bulkhead connector!
Once we know exactly what your configuration is now, then that will determine what we do next!
For the record, it doesn't matter what oem setup is claimed to be in any service reference, what matters is exactly what the rig in question is running now! This stuff is 30+ years old, no telling what has been done with it in the past as it passes from po to po!
All this discussion is something that must be addressed when doing any non-oem ignition work or conversions! For instance, if someone installed a dui distributor/system and tried to feed it with the resistor wire, the results would not be pretty! And same for your prestolite electronic sparkmaker!
My suggestion??? Right now let's make sure your ignition system is optimized, that must be in the bag before making any changes to the induction system! Otherwise, we're back to the shotgun approach.
