Holley 19XX Series Carb Stuff

Welcome to ihon dude!

What you have described is exactly what I see in 1904 carbs sent in for service at least three times a week! Three are here now that have gone through this same thing. As simple as they are, they have many nuances that fit your scenario and can be every bit a "technical" to work with as any more modern emissions carb! So you are not alone!

Assuming that your mixer has all the correct pieces installed for it's list number, and that the correct kit replacement parts were used, I'd have to say what your description tells me is that the main well needs some attention. A combination of a economizer valve not working right and the metering circuits inside the main well are grunged with varnished fuel residue and "white rust". Those circuits can't be cleaned through the use of any solvent or soaking, the plugs gotta come out (normally there are six plugs, sometimes only five) and a mechanical cleaning process performed, then the holes re-plugged.

It's also possible the incorrect accel pump was used in the rebuild, there is one critical hole on both the pump element for the 1904 and the 1920, they are the same except for that hole. If the wrong element is installed, the carb won't function hardly at all, and it's not just an accelerator pump issue. In some cases, the various kits available for the 1904, have the wrong accel pump element packaged, I've posted about that several posts earlier in this thread.

When you have access to the rig and wanna mess with it again, take some pics of the parts and post 'em, we can usually work this out on the forum here. But in this case due to the acess issue to the rig, it might be simpler to just have us build you a guaranteed fresh carb that is ready to drop on and drive, then send your core in for a refund of the core charge, we don't put a time limit on how soon a core needs to be returned, it's controlled by how soon a customer wants the core charge credited back to their credit card! Then once I get your core, I'll rip into it and tell ya what was wrong!
 
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I think we are 100% accurate here. I think I'll call tomorrow and have one shipped out. We have the better part of two weeks to memorial day. Do you think I could have one hand before then?

Thanks
 
I think we are 100% accurate here. I think I'll call tomorrow and have one shipped out. We have the better part of two weeks to memorial day. Do you think I could have one hand before then?

Thanks

I can ship a fresh 1904 to you by Wednesday (the 19th) and you should have it on Friday (the 21st).

But I need confirmation it would be for a 152 engine. Some of these rigs have had a 196 swapped in and the carb bores and mounting flange pattern is slightly different and they won't interchange on the intake manifold. I can also send out the version for a 196 if needed, cost is the same.

Simply call Jeff at 916-268-0864 and give him a credit card number, we'll take it from there! Thanks for considering us for your needs!
 
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Talked to someone from the shop/store today and gave credit info. The Scout is a 1965 152 the whole thing is 100% origional except of course the carb and fuel pump.

Thanks for the fast turn around and I'll get the core back shortely after memorial day.

Jon
 
I'll get a carb built for ya tomorrow, you need the smaller of the two common venturi sizes and a throttle body with the 2-3/4" stud spacing.

If you will email me at:

michael@IHPartsAmerica.com

I can capture your email addy and will send ya some pics tomorrow nite of what you will be receiving from us.

Thanks for the order!
 
Micheal I am new to the forum and after reading through this thread it seems that my carb issues are very common. Wont idle without choke, backfires through carb, idle screws has no effect on the engine at all. The vehicle is 66 1100a with a b264 engine. I put a kit in it just the other day but it has not improved any. I guess my only solution is to purchase a new carb. Do you guys ship to canada. Great forum by the way I have learned a lot in the last few days of reading through it.
 
Welcome to the ihon operation!

Sure, we luv to redeem canadian dinero!

Can you give me the details of the kit contents you reinstalled and also post some pics of the inside of the carb and the main well?

If the accelerator pump diaphragm in the kit you used is the correct one for your 1904, I'd be 90% certain that your main well assembly is your problem. Even if the economizer poppet in it is sealing properly, all fuel is metered through the various wells and orifices contained in the main well unit. Those a re tiny holes and no doubt if disassembled you ill find some varnish deposit and also corrosion caused by moisture intrusion over time.

When we remanufacture those, Robert does the machine work on the economizer, then I pop the plugs out and clean internally and install new accel pump checks (n=2) and then re-plug.

That simple main well casting is actually very sophisticated in it's design and operation, when they are ok, those carbs are wonderful, when they are grungee inside, the carbs are crap!

My suggestion...order an exchange main well from ihon by making a phone call to the shop. There will be a core charge involved also. There should be a few on the shelf now (I have none at my location temporarily). I also just sent down a box of cores for Robert to reconstitute and we'll have more complete units in stock soon.

Install the fresh main well and I bet that cures all your carb issues.

I don't think we have any rebuilt 1904 carbs available on the shelf now for outright purchase, so we can only rebuild customer units. And...the 1904 used on the bd 264 is a bit different in the choke actuator design as compared to a four cylinder item.

We can certainly rebuild your carb for you if ya send it to me. If...all the kit parts that you installed are ok, then we adjust the price to reflect only those additional parts we might need to replace, we do not charge the customer for stuff they don't need, it's the honor system!

For more info regarding our carburetor services, check this link:

http://www.forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/new-products-IH-only/3479-IH-only-north-fuel-systems-shop.html
 
Micheal, the kit I used was a hygrade kit# 296 b I cleaned the carb and soaked it over night. Blew it out the next day and installed a new throttle body gasket, accelerator pump spring and diaphragm, economiser and economiser gasket, a new gasket under the pump discharge assembly, new seat, needle and clip, and two gaskets on the seat one inside the bowl and one on the fuel inlet seat screw, and a new gasket on the float bowl. I will try and post some pictures of the carb in the next day or two, it is out on the farm and I will not get back there until Monday.
 
The kit you used is decent and it sounds like ya did it right! So that leaves the main well assembly is crapped!
 
I will order a new main well on Monday and try and post those pictures of the carb at the same time. Thanks for the advice.I'm new to the IH trucks, I picked this one up at an auction while trying to get a parts truck for my 59 gmc. I am more used to working on the leaky rochesters then this Holley.
 
Micheal, I ordered a main well this morning and am looking forward to it's arrival. I hope it cures all my problems. I will send the old main core back to you directly as requested by the fellow at ihon. Once again thanks for the advice.
 
micheal, I ordered a main well this morning and am looking forward to it's arrival. I hope it cures all my problems. I will send the old main core back to you directly as requested by the fellow at ihon. Once again thanks for the advice.

I know you will be pleased with the performance of that carb once ya get the main well installed!

But if ya still have problems after installing, make sure you ring our bell so we can make it play nice!

Thanks for choosing ihon for your parts needs!
 
Michael, the new main well arrived this morning I will be installing it within the hour and will be ever so happy to hear the engine run well. I will report back later about my success or lack thereof whichever the case May be, and thanks again.
 
Michael, I installed the main well today and seem to have had only partial success. The truck now idles pretty good however it still seems to be getting to much fuel under load and it is still sputtering and backfiring some. There May be some kind of related ignition issue as when checking it over today I was removing the plug wires one at a time because it seemed to be missing and #3 cylinder is firing only when I remove the wire and hold it slightly away from the plug. My daily is a 59 235 gmc and I took one of the new wires off it and tried it with the same result. The main fuel jet in my carb is numbered 65 is that correct and what is up with that damn cylinder only firing when the wire is off almost but not when it is on as it should be.:confused:
 
I'd wager that the #3 plug is fuel fouled. Either swap it with another cylinder and see if the miss transfers or replace the plug with another. When you hold the plug cable terminal away from the plug, you are introducing a "booster" gap to the secondary output circuit for #3 and making the coil produce maximum voltage for that occurrence. The term for that is "voltage required", if the "voltage available" (measured in kv) exceeds the capacity of the coil, then misfire occurs.

It's also possible that the distributor cap has a near invisible crack in the plastic allowing a "cross-fire" inside the cap.

Third possibility...the dwell is way off for the distributor (point gap) and the system is simply dropping that cylinder due to variances inside the distributor due to wear. Point gap/dwell for that distributor is given in the attached chart, find the delco part number on your distributor body and do the look-up, as you can see, the point gap/dwell factors vary somewhat.

The idle quality is now affected by the miss, and that prevents being able to adjust the idle mixture screw also so you will just be chasing your tail.

So yes, you still have multiple issues to work through but you now have a functional carb or it would not be idling at all!

The standard main jet is most likely a #64. But some versions of that engine in some chassis also could have used a #68 main jet. The #64 jet is what I'd recommend if I were doing the carb, many times I find main jets much smaller since someone has tried to compensate for a non-functional economizer/main well.
 

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  • BD Delco Distributor Data.PDF
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So I'm hoping it's just shitty ignition and new plugs, wires, points,condenser and a cap will solve my problems. If it is not however, where do I get parts for that distributor or failing that a replacement unit. Oh ya should I be putting this in another thread?because it seems to be deviating from the original carb issue which May appears to have been solved.
 
so I'm hoping it's just shitty ignition and new plugs, wires, points,condenser and a cap will solve my problems. If it is not however, where do I get parts for that distributor or failing that a replacement unit. Oh ya should I be putting this in another thread?because it seems to be deviating from the original carb issue which May appears to have been solved.

Yep, once you get into the ignition overhaul, start a new thread!

We don't have any exchange distributors ready to go right now for the IH six cylinder apps. So we'd have to rebuild your unit which is perfectly doable! If the vacuum advance canister is perforated, we can have that rebuilt by our source and it will come back looking as new.

The distributors themselves are extremely rugged and normally require only a good internal cleaning and light lubrication after verifying mechanical advance actuation. Those units don't have the same issues regarding wear that we discuss regarding the distributors for the four cylinder and the sv engines you see posted so often.

If you start a new thread for the ignition service, be sure to identify which distributor you have based upon the delco part number so we make sure we provide correct information.

Here's a pic of a similar distributor I did about a year ago. That vacuum advance was remanufactured for us and I installed a pertronix electronic trigger conversion.
 

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Pulling the plug wire and allowing it to arc a big gap to the plug greatly increases the voltage needed to jump the gap thus the arc voltage to the plug once it fires. That will in some instances cause a fouled plug to fire. Sounds like a fouled plug on that cylinder. #3 I think you wrote.

Might swaping plugs from a firing cylinder to #3.
 
Hey Mike,

first off thank you for the wealth of information here--it has made my life so much easier! I have recently picked up a '66 Scout 800 and the carb is great--except for a missing pump discharge nozzle. I can't seem to find one anywhere! Is this a treasure hunt item or do you know where I can get one? Thanks again for all your advice and help!
 
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