electrical rewire

@Scoutboy74 THANK YOU jumped thw coil and she lit right off and sounded great thank you oh so much for your help and dealing with all the questions. it is much apprecitated. all i need to do is hook up the resistor and i can drive my baby again once again THANK YOU, you just made my day.
 
ok i did a stupid, rewired the starter but left the wire way to long forgot about it and melted the wire after it rubbed on the frame rail and made a direct short,. i checked the book for the wiring diagram and i didnt see a fuse for the ign, so were do i go from here?
 
Any damaged wire(s) will need to be replaced again. That bit of Captain Obvious advice is the best I can do until more specifics are provided about the full nature of the damage.
 
i melted (direct shorted) the wire from the S terminal on cyalnoid to keyed ign. cut out the bad section, spliced in a good section, i have no power to the key but the int electircal does work.
 
ok update i guess, i just bypased the ignition switch. purchased a momentary wired it up(i think i did it rightone side to pos other to S lug on starter) pushed in clutch and there was nothing. i have power in cab so i assume the cylanoid is good. any advice?
 
Take a voltage reading across your battery terminals just to verify charge status. You can have some low draw things able to work in the cab, yet not nearly enough juice in the battery to engage the starter. Double check that your battery clamp connections are free of corrosion and tight. It's possible that the solenoid and perhaps even the starter motor itself were damaged by the mishap.
 
it was at 12.35v my cheap mu;ti meater doesn show amps(or i dont know how to read it???)
how would the cylanoid cook but still allow in cab electrical?
 
12.35 is a little low, but should still be plenty to get some action from the starter. You can't measure amps with your handheld multi-meter. The solenoid is a mechanical device. Things are supposed to move back and forth inside that little canister when triggered by electricity. The large battery terminal on the exterior of the canister is just a contact point for two or more wires to touch. Your battery cable is touching the feed wire that sends power into the cab where they join at this terminal, hence power in the cab.
 
Well, if you're not getting so much as a click noise out of it with your remote switch, that's a pretty good sign that it's bad. The jump between the big B+ terminal and the little 'S' terminal should cycle the internal plunger which makes an audible 'click' noise even if the starter is bad or when battery voltage is too low to crank the starter motor.
 
it wasnt meant to come across like it did, im very grateful for the help, its just an unexpected fix that i wasnt ready for is all
 
im lost, pulled starter replace the solenoid, she cranks but doenst fire, replaced the coil still no spark . double and triple checked all my connections and still no fire. is there something else inbewteen the starter and ign switch that i cooked that would stop me from starting my truck?


checked for spark videos above and not getting anything brand new coil as of those videos
 
Sounds like you're not getting power to the coil when the key is switched to Start or ON. No power to coil, no spark.
 
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