Looking even better.. Well just got back from the trip an hr ago, long week but Scout did great. We did a 1000 miles and only had a couple set backs with her but nothing a couple guys and some beer cant fix. The high light of the trip was every one was giving me shit for taking the Scout, well she didnt get stuck and I had to bull a full size dodge 2500 with an off road trailer out of the mud, along with a Ford exploder. Lets just say they didnt say a word the rest of the trip. Lol well I look forward to seeing more of your build looking great.
BrewScout
- Thread starter mikeindustries
- Start date
mikeindustries
Member
Awesome! I love it when people run there mouths and then get stuck. Sure wish you had a pic of you pulling out that 2500. I would frame it. Glad you had a good trip.
mikeindustries
Member
Its alive!!!!so by the end of the day yesterday I had the Scout running. Still need to wire the instruments, reverse lights (kit was lacking this), driver seat power, cb, wipers, and heater fan.......did I mention it running!
I only had to troubleshoot a couple things. First, the instructions stated to connect the front running lights and the rear tail lights to the lower filament on the 1157 bulb. The problem is that the lower filament is the brightest. With the lower/brighter one on you could not see the blinker flash. Also you could not see the brake lights come on. Easy fix, just pull and switch the leads in the weather pack plug. The second problem was that the new brake light switch I installed was not the right length so it was always on. The fix? Put the old one back in.
I have to say that I am pretty amazed at how easy, so far, this has been. The kits instructions have been pretty good.
Here are some pics of yesterdays progress....
And routing to the rear....
I only had to troubleshoot a couple things. First, the instructions stated to connect the front running lights and the rear tail lights to the lower filament on the 1157 bulb. The problem is that the lower filament is the brightest. With the lower/brighter one on you could not see the blinker flash. Also you could not see the brake lights come on. Easy fix, just pull and switch the leads in the weather pack plug. The second problem was that the new brake light switch I installed was not the right length so it was always on. The fix? Put the old one back in.
I have to say that I am pretty amazed at how easy, so far, this has been. The kits instructions have been pretty good.
Here are some pics of yesterdays progress....
And routing to the rear....
mikeindustries
Member
Heres a couple of pics with the lights on. They seem brighter.
Tahoedonner
Member
Looking good. I was also surprised at how easy the wiring was to do. Daunting when looking at it on the garage floor but once you get going it's fairly simple.
mikeindustries
Member
Now that the Scout is back on the road I have shifted my attention to some of the neglected areas. First was replacing the front leaf spring shackle bolts. These see a lot of abuse. This is the condition that I found mine in....
So I replaced them with all new grade 8 hardware. ....
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag241/mikeindustries/mobile%20uploads/2014-06/20140610_161214_zps67ubegxl.jpg[/img ]
I also reinstalled the factory sway bar . I had removed it in order to put longer shackles on.with the new longer shackles it required me to cut the brackets and weld them on to the longer shackles . it is more solid now and rides much better on the highway . this is a daily driver .
[img]http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag241/mikeindustries/mobile%20uploads/2014-06/20140610_154353_zpsry7mo6iv.jpg
So I replaced them with all new grade 8 hardware. ....
http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag241/mikeindustries/mobile%20uploads/2014-06/20140610_161214_zps67ubegxl.jpg[/img ]
I also reinstalled the factory sway bar . I had removed it in order to put longer shackles on.with the new longer shackles it required me to cut the brackets and weld them on to the longer shackles . it is more solid now and rides much better on the highway . this is a daily driver .
[img]http://i1370.photobucket.com/albums/ag241/mikeindustries/mobile%20uploads/2014-06/20140610_154353_zpsry7mo6iv.jpg
mikeindustries
Member
Yeah your right good catch! When I welded it I wrapped a wet rag around the bar close to the weld, and turned my machine way up and made the welds in a single pass. This actually reduces the joules (heat) input it to the base metal because you can travel faster. I realize that the welded area is affected but their is still almost 2' of unaffected bar.
mikeindustries
Member
Blew the front pump seal on my tf727 over the weekend. Was able to pull the drive shafts, and slide the tranny back far enough to get the torque converter out and replace the seal.
While I was there I replaced the seal on the selector shaft too. A bit more difficult to get out with out opening up the tranny but thanks to the huge access panel the scouts have it wasn't so bad.
While I was there I replaced the seal on the selector shaft too. A bit more difficult to get out with out opening up the tranny but thanks to the huge access panel the scouts have it wasn't so bad.
mikeindustries
Member
Transfer case shifter pin mod
When removing the transmission the transfer case shifter can get in the way. Problem is that the pin cannot be removed until the transmission has been lowered several inches. This modification alows you to remove the pin without moving the tranny or transfer case.
When removing the transmission the transfer case shifter can get in the way. Problem is that the pin cannot be removed until the transmission has been lowered several inches. This modification alows you to remove the pin without moving the tranny or transfer case.
mikeindustries
Member
The 304 has given up the ghost!
So a few weeks ago the brewscout started running pretty bad. By pretty bad I mean after about 10 miles of highway driving to work a popping started occuring. Sounded like it was under the valley pan. I decided to pull the heads to see what was going on. This is what I found.....
So a few weeks ago the brewscout started running pretty bad. By pretty bad I mean after about 10 miles of highway driving to work a popping started occuring. Sounded like it was under the valley pan. I decided to pull the heads to see what was going on. This is what I found.....
mikeindustries
Member
So now I am trying to figure out the best course of action. I have plans to eventually put a cummins 4bt into this Scout. I also don't think investing the $1900 into rebuilding this 304 is a great idea either. Would lime to find a running replacment 304 or 345 to use until I finish sourcing all of the parts I will need to do the diesel conversion. I have even pondered the risky option of having the heads reworked and throwing a new cam in this old 304.
Your thoughts?
Your thoughts?
Hey if your looking for a cheep diesel the mercedes engine 617. Is not a power house, max hp is only rated at 200hp after some work to her. This is the direction im doing with my 72. I care more about the mph, I did some reading and after the mb617 and a 5sp manual I will be getting in the ball park of 20mph. This is a right up a friend did about my Scout. Good luck and nice job on our Scout.
om engine swap into 1976 Scout - page 3 - peachparts mercedes shopforum
om engine swap into 1976 Scout - page 3 - peachparts mercedes shopforum
mikeindustries
Member
So I think I have decided to go with the cummins 4bt swap. Seems like the easiest option due to all of the after market choices. Have plans to try and fit a compound turbo setup under the hood. We will see what happens.
mikeindustries
Member
aren't they just fun! Just when you think you have a plan figured out on a build, 4 other thing come into play that mess the original plans up!
And that is exactly what has happened once again. I found a pretty good deal on a running 345 ($650). I figure its going to still take a bit of time ( and money ) to get all of the parts I still need for the 4bt swap. So this way at least I will get to drive the Scout. I really miss it!
Thanks for the build thread, looks great so far. I noticed you put in some heat barrier (rattle mat?) how is it holding up stuck to the undercarriage? Im looking at ways to stop the heat coming through, I also sprayed my inside with a liner. I was thinking about covering the floor inside and using an oem rubber floor kit. I would rather keep the liner uncovered if I could keep the heat out like you did.
mikeindustries
Member
Thanks. It has been a long road, and no end in sight. But I enjoy wrenching on it. My son also has the bug.
The mat sticks really good. The underside is new metal so I am sure that helps. If the bottom were really oily I am not sure it would stick as well.
The factory rubber mat liners that they came with are a terrible thing in my opinion. All they do is trap moisture and cause the floors to rot out. I think I would go with some sort of carpet kit. I don't notice a lot of heat from the floor. Think I get more from the roof that is not insulated.
mikeindustries
Member
So anybody who knows me understands that not only does something need to work well but it needs to look good too.
With that being said, me an ollie got the 345 that we just bought home. It looked like your typical motor covered in 30+years of dirt, oil and who knows what else. Since I witness this motor running before it was pulled I am very satisfied that it is mechanically solid. No lifter rattles, no funny noises, good oil pressure, idled smooth.
So that only left me with the appearance of it. Start the makeover.
With that being said, me an ollie got the 345 that we just bought home. It looked like your typical motor covered in 30+years of dirt, oil and who knows what else. Since I witness this motor running before it was pulled I am very satisfied that it is mechanically solid. No lifter rattles, no funny noises, good oil pressure, idled smooth.
So that only left me with the appearance of it. Start the makeover.
mikeindustries
Member
I was thinking the same. As I have been cleaning some of the parts with brake cleaner I noticed two different shades of red paint. The Scout it came out of had 80,000 on the odometer. Probably 180,000. Too many miles to run as good as this does without a rebuild.
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mikeindustries
Member
So everything was pulled off the motor. Cleaned, prepped, and painted. This is where we are now!
mikeindustries
Member
Today ollie and I finally got the motor in the Scout. What a pain in the a$$. Seems to have less room. Is the 345 wider than a 304? Should get all of the loose ends buttoned up tomorrow.
Oh yeah...we switched oil pans. The pan that came on the new 345 only had one drain plug. The pan off my old 304 has 2 drain plugs. I like draining all the oil during an oil change. Just had to clean all of the babbet out and paint.
Oh yeah...we switched oil pans. The pan that came on the new 345 only had one drain plug. The pan off my old 304 has 2 drain plugs. I like draining all the oil during an oil change. Just had to clean all of the babbet out and paint.
the cleaner they are the more horse power and torque you get out of them, that what I say!!!
mikeindustries
Member
Thats what I have always thought. Like a shiny diamond pressed into a turd!