An Expedition Scout

I rebuilt the new design Weber that was leaking and this is a completely different 32/36 than the 4 Spanish versions that I have stock piled, so there's a bit of a learning curve on it, and first run with it newly rebuilt was a failure. My idle jets are to small and it's running REALLY lean according to the plugs and how it drives. Pulled it off and replaced it with the early version that I had already rebuilt, it wasn't jetted right, but I have a ton of jets for that model, and here is where I ended up. I need to do an AFR gauge to get it better, but it's running pretty good like this. Primary is 75 idle, 165 main, 180 air corrector/ Secondary is 70 idle, 160 main, 170 air corrector. With this jetting the volume screw is just under 1.5 turns out, that's within spec, and there is no hesitations during off idle transition or when the secondary comes in. An off idle full throttle hit doesn't report a lean cough, and acceleration is smooth with no hesitations right up to redline. It doesn't smell rich and the plugs seem happy with it. I will do a mileage check over the next few weeks and see if it's still in the 18-19 mpg on the highway, but I'm callin it good for now...at least till I do an AFR.
 
If you look at my thread about tuning a Holley 390cfm 4bbl carb, I believe that I went over the AFR setup I made for under $20. It worked great.
 
Haven't really done anything to it for awhile. I even stripped her down and put her up for sale, dang near sold it too! Had a guy hot and heavy for her and ended up talking him out of it. That being said...I couldn't do it!!! I really don't have the room but I can't sell her. I guess it's time to start putting her back together, fix the Tcase leak, and start driving her again...kinda got spoiled by the Ranger I bought.
 
Kinda got back on her today. Remounted the hi lift back on the hood and found a good passenger vent cable on ebay the other day, so today started the revamp of the heating/vent system. I replaced the bad cable on the passenger side and move the drivers cable to a different hole for a little better movement. I also added a choke and heater valve cable that I've had in my stash. I still need to find a throttle cable and fab some way for it to work on the Weber, then all the holes in my dash will be filled. The seals came in for the Tcase and I plan to replace them this week so she's back on the road instead of leaking in the driveway.
 
Finally got to the Tcase rear main seal...what a PITA!!! It must have been the original cause it was hard as a rock, took forever to get it to back out, had to use a chisel to cut it to release some tension. When I moved it the other day I noticed an exhaust leak, turns out the muffler needs to be replaced now, I have one for it cause I knew it was gettin old. So I ran to Napa and picked up another donut and on the way back the Ranger blew a heater hose so I spent the rest of the day fixing it. That truck has more hoses and pipes on the engine than anything I've ever seen. Turned out that someone put the clamp on the hose next to it with the tangs sticking in the heater hose that blew, I guess attention to detail isn't in demand anymore, I mean how hard is it to pay attention. Either way the Ranger is fixed and it should be nice tomorrow to work on the Scout.
 
Been busy and got to Beater again today, it appears that the old muffler was plugged enough to effect the tuning of my Weber cause now it's running lean. With that, I've been doing a TON of research on the 32/36 and now have a better working knowledge of its operations and tuning. I pulled the old Spanish Weber off and turned to the newer style one I have with a manual choke. I could never get this carb to run right on her and I finally found out why. It turns out that the secondary butterfly stop was adjusted to far open causing all of my idle adjusting issues...to much vacuum signal. I got that worked out and now with a #90 "fat" main idle jet she's perfect at idle!! Mixture screw is at 1.7-2.0 turns out with the idle speed screw not in contact with the butterfly. She runs like a tractor and she barely idles at 350 rpm but she idles. Idle speed screw is now at .35-.40 turns after contact and she idles at 750 rpm at operating temp. I didn't get to go on a test drive yet, but I'm pretty happy with the results so far...I now know that the idle circuit is correct...it gets easier from here.

To be continued...................
 
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