71mtnscout
Member
I'm losing my work area for the 64 so it will be towed home next week....awesome!
An Expedition Scout
- Thread starter 71mtnscout
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71mtnscout
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The 64 is at home now.
71mtnscout
Member
The 196 in the 64 has some "interesting" noises coming out of it now that the muffler is back on. It seems to run just fine and has good power, but has a rattle/knock without load when coming back to idle only...I'd say from 1800rpm to idle. That and the fact that I'm positive that the head isn't unleaded friendly is making me rethink the build, and the fact that I've always wanted a 2wd street and a 4x4 Scout in the stables. So since I have 2 s80's I can have both! I have other things to sell to finance the builds (priorities) I will continue the work on the 63 as the off-road machine. It has an awesome engine and is already kinda beat up so trail rash wont be a concern.
I found out that the driver side axle on the rear of the 63 is bent awhile back along with the driveshaft, most likely the source of my vibration issue, and it has a centered d44 tapered rear axle on a d18 t-case. Tomorrow I will start the swap on the rear axle and driveshaft from the 64 to the 63. It's a flanged d44 from a waggy, so its offset for a better driveline angle with the d18 t-case, and its much stronger than the tapered axle and has way better aftermarket support, and I'll gain an e-brake!
I found out that the driver side axle on the rear of the 63 is bent awhile back along with the driveshaft, most likely the source of my vibration issue, and it has a centered d44 tapered rear axle on a d18 t-case. Tomorrow I will start the swap on the rear axle and driveshaft from the 64 to the 63. It's a flanged d44 from a waggy, so its offset for a better driveline angle with the d18 t-case, and its much stronger than the tapered axle and has way better aftermarket support, and I'll gain an e-brake!
71mtnscout
Member
Tackled the axle swap between the 64 and 63 today...got the waggy axle bolted into the 63 and back down on its wheels. Tomorrow I will bleed the brakes and tend to the e-brake setup. I might even get the other axle back into the 64, but that's not as much of a priority as getting the 63 back up. I can say that working in the driveway sucks, but that's all I got for a work area for now.
71mtnscout
Member
The 63 is now a "driver" again...bleed the brakes and tied the e-brake cable out of the way till I get to a handle. Have to go get the good driveshaft shortened tomorrow, it has almost no slip left (1/4") with an offset d44 which wasn't the case with a centered one. The gears are lower on this axle, I think 4.27 vs 4.88 and its an open diff too. I might take the guts and r&p out of the old one, it was a locker, maybe a trash-lock never looked. Took it on a small test drive and readjusted the proportioning valve so my brakes are pretty good now.
71mtnscout
Member
Had the driveshaft done yesterday...$50.00...a great deal, and installed it this morning and checked and lubed the u-joints. Went for a test drive and am very happy with the results. This is the first s80 I've driven with 4.27's all my others have had 4.88's and with a 196 and a weber it will cruise effortlessly at 65mph on the highway at almost 3,000rpm instead of screaming at 55mph. Even with the solid mounted engine/trans the vibration isn't to bad at speed now...I'm willing to drive it almost anywhere now.
71mtnscout
Member
Been driving the 63 all week and she's doing pretty good. The steering box is in decent condition, but I cant wait to get the grand cherokee p/s box in it to tighten it up a bit. I need to change the wrong front ubolts out for the stock ones I have on the rf corner and I re-torqued the rear ubolts. Next up is my cheap 2" lift......
71mtnscout
Member
Its been awhile since I've done anything to the Scout cause its been so fricking hot here these last 2 months of summer. The weather has mellowed a bit now so I started in on it again this past week. Remember the drop plates I had made? Well I started fitting those this week getting ready to do my "on the cheap" lift while retaining the correct axle alignment specs. I have procured 3/8" x 5" shackles to take care of the other ends to match the 2" spring mount drop. Thats all for now and nothing has really changed yet, I'm planning to do the lift in 1 day so as not to down it for long since its my dd...more to follow.
71mtnscout
Member
I now have all the parts for the poormans lift, will start it tomorrow.
71mtnscout
Member
Started on the lift today at the front...yes that's ruthie my wife. I'm fortunate enough to have a wife that likes IH's as much as me and likes to work on them too.
Frame plates are installed first, bolted, and heavily tacked. I will finish weld them when I'm done with the whole lift and then painted. The shackles went on next and new kyb's. I've ordered the correct length kyb shocks for front and rear and will change them when they come in. The stock shocks will work for a mall crawler but will get destroyed four wheelin. It was 3pm when we got it back together and fixed the upper shock mounts. There has been some interesting things done to it in the past.
I will get better pics tomorrow.
Frame plates are installed first, bolted, and heavily tacked. I will finish weld them when I'm done with the whole lift and then painted. The shackles went on next and new kyb's. I've ordered the correct length kyb shocks for front and rear and will change them when they come in. The stock shocks will work for a mall crawler but will get destroyed four wheelin. It was 3pm when we got it back together and fixed the upper shock mounts. There has been some interesting things done to it in the past.
I will get better pics tomorrow.
71mtnscout
Member
The hard work is done on the "poormans" lift now and I'm pleased with the results....
Before
And after
The frame plates need to be trimmed and finished welded but are welded to the factory brackets on the inside. If I were to do this again I would move the new mounting location 3/8" forward, or rearward depending on the location, to push the spring out a little more for more shackle angle, especially for the rear. I expect the rear shackle angle to be better when done cause there isnt any load on the rear right now and there will be gear in the bed when used. I replaced the rear springs with ones that I had that were just in better condition and had a little more arch to them....thus the slight "stink-bug" stance.
I also installed 1.5" wheel spacers on the rear since the waggy 44 was a narrow track unit.
Before
And after
The frame plates need to be trimmed and finished welded but are welded to the factory brackets on the inside. If I were to do this again I would move the new mounting location 3/8" forward, or rearward depending on the location, to push the spring out a little more for more shackle angle, especially for the rear. I expect the rear shackle angle to be better when done cause there isnt any load on the rear right now and there will be gear in the bed when used. I replaced the rear springs with ones that I had that were just in better condition and had a little more arch to them....thus the slight "stink-bug" stance.
I also installed 1.5" wheel spacers on the rear since the waggy 44 was a narrow track unit.
71mtnscout
Member
Beater had a new noise since the lift...a sorta song. Turns out the e-brake cable is rubbing on driveshaft and causing the "song". So I flipped the pull rod to the bottom of the swing bracket and made a tether out of steel rod to keep the cable away from the driveshaft. It does what its designed to and the brake works fine.
1 noise down 27 to go.......
1 noise down 27 to go.......
71mtnscout
Member
Now that winter is here a few things needed fixin. First up was the leaky exhaust system. A little cut and splice along with a new flange gasket, and adding another hanger later. It's amazing how much quieter it is now, I still get a wiff now and then but I still have some holes to fix. The stock heater seems to work pretty good but I need to add the heat valve and control cable to be able to shut the water off and on from inside the cab. The windshield hinge leaks like a sieve in the rain and I haven't got to it yet.
71mtnscout
Member
It has always "marked" its spot, but has been a bit excessive lately. It turns out that my tcase has alot of slop in the yokes. I was hoping to do a reseal but it really should get rebuilt. So I will be pulling the trans/tcase out of my 64 which is nice and tight and has minimal leakage and throw them in to keep him a dd. My intent is to rebuild the combo and put them back in this summer.
Oh boy!!
Oh boy!!
71mtnscout
Member
I got home early yesterday and started prepping the 64 to pull the trans/tcase to go in beater. Pulled the top cover on the t90 and the inside looks to be in pretty good condition, full of oil and no chipped teeth are evident.
Since I don't have a hoist at home it has to come out the bottom and I have to lift the Scout high enough to drag them out from under it, so the shift levers have to come off. I wanted to keep anything from getting inside the trans so I made an abs plate to bolt in place of the shift tower to keep it sealed up during the job. Other than draining fluids and pulling the front driveshaft out, it's ready to pull.
Since I don't have a hoist at home it has to come out the bottom and I have to lift the Scout high enough to drag them out from under it, so the shift levers have to come off. I wanted to keep anything from getting inside the trans so I made an abs plate to bolt in place of the shift tower to keep it sealed up during the job. Other than draining fluids and pulling the front driveshaft out, it's ready to pull.
71mtnscout
Member
Found a rental yard that has a small hoist for $25.00 a day that comes apart into 6 pieces for easy transport, so I got busy today and prepped and pulled the trans/tcase out of beater and wilma. Beaters stuff is on a roll cart now and will be torn down for rebuilding later. The swap units are on the hoist ready for install in the morning, I ran out of light and energy. I did swap the t/o bearing from the 64, beaters was chattering and it was just plumb wore out. The clutch isn't to bad looks to have about another year left on it...I will have to start saving for a new one.
71mtnscout
Member
Awwww crap!!
Somehow the pilot bearing came loose and is wedged behind the friction plate. No big deal really except that I dont have the alignment tool for a 4cyl, got one on the way and will have it done before the weekend I think.
Somehow the pilot bearing came loose and is wedged behind the friction plate. No big deal really except that I dont have the alignment tool for a 4cyl, got one on the way and will have it done before the weekend I think.
71mtnscout
Member
Done, back together and it moves under its own power again. I have to say it's odd to not hear the the "I'm worn out" noises from the trans/tcase/clutch anymore, I even got a $14.99 seat cover from walmart!!
71mtnscout
Member
Getting it ready for I.h.w.r. In April, got my ftm-350 ham radio mounted and working with a cheapo mag-mount antenna for now. I will have to save some pennies and get a good antenna soon. I also fixed my cup holders today they work great on a soda size can but the cup was so tall the larger travel cups didn't reach the bottom so I cut them down an inch or so. I need to move some cables and switches around so they don't interfere with the giant travel cup that I use.
71mtnscout
Member
Tackled the doors today, they were just barely workable. The windows didn't operate very well and I don't have a key for the doors so I ordered a set of locks from IH parts and today they came in. Changed the locks out and now I can actually lock it if I need to...wohoo! I also took everything apart and cleaned and lubed it all and now my windows aren't perfect but they work much better now. I still need to replace the window track stuff since there isn't anything in the front one and the rears are cracked and falling apart. I remember reading about using velcro in the tracks, maybe I'll go that way. Either way my doors are operating pretty good now for a 54 year old truck.