• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

An Expedition Scout

71mtnscout

Member
Took both doors apart and pulled the windows out and did 1" velcro hook on the front track, the rear track was still intact so I lubed it and left it alone. I will never put door window felts on beater so I used the cloth side of the velcro on the outer door sill to stop the widow frame to door rattle when the windows are down. Added some strategic rubber pads to the glove box door to stop that rattle, all in all it's getting quieter while driving...still can't hear a radio at highway speeds, but below 55 mph you can. :cool:



The engine has always been "piston slap" noisy for as long as I've had it but it runs great and has good compression and oil pressure. So while out on a test drive today I was climbing this hill in third and when I punched it pinged. When I got home I decided to check timing.....I guess I never checked it when I got it. It was timed at 12* btdc, what a dolt I am, I reset the timing to 0 and went for a drive...what a difference!!! The engine is sooo much quieter and has more pull on the top end too, can't believe I didn't check it! :sad: the rattles are slowly being resolved and it's driving better and better, its becoming a solid driver...now if I can stop the body rattles...
 

71mtnscout

Member
Added weatherproof storage in the bed today. I was going to do 2 "fat" .50 cans on each side, and May still go to that, but I got such a great deal on theses standard .50 cal boxes I had to buy them. I didn't want to get into the main bed storage area and this is the what I finally came up with to get 3 on each side and still be able to operate them easily with the bed packed.

 

71mtnscout

Member
Modified the existing steering stabilizer mounts to accept a stock 60's era cj-6 unit, there cheap and available over the counter most of the time. Drives much better now, doesn't wander around as much at highway speeds. The one that was on it had no resistance at all anymore and was doing nothing.

 

71mtnscout

Member
Started the loading of the needed gear today. Went to 4 wheel parts and picked up a mount for my hi lift and got it mounted. I picked up a nutsert tool...man this thing makes using nutserts a breeze!! I need to work on a spare tire and fuel can mount.



 

71mtnscout

Member
Finished the install of the lock bars for the storage boxes. I still need to reinforce them with solid rod plug welded inside the tube to make it harder to bend them. These bars are double duty, hopefully they will keep the boxes fairly secure and to hold a tarp down over stuff in the bed when it's fully packed.

 

71mtnscout

Member
First test was a success! Did a 3 day short run, 125 miles out, to I.h.w.r. In yermo over the weekend with beater loaded for camping. Well...glamping, we were in a campground with full services. 60 mph seems to be the "happy" speed and I averaged 19 mpg on the highway...not bad. There are a few more things I need to add to the truck to be able to dry camp but were gettin real close. We really need a bigger tent, the being bent over in it sucks, I want one that I can stand in. Gunna take a rest and work on the bike for a bit while I plan the next mods.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Started back at him again and I was getting exhaust in the cab again, so a check proved to be a loose exhaust...again. Yesterday I extended the exhaust to the rear, and added more hangers to take the stress off of the manifold connection. Flange gasket was toast and of coarse it wasn't in stock and had to be ordered. Got that replaced to today and did a short "seating in" run and re torqued it and did another heat cycle. I had no exhaust in the cab on either run so hopefully it's fixed for the last time, but then it is an IH. It's 103* right now and I'll wait till the sun goes down to go fill the tank.

Next is the enclosing and weather proofing of the storage pockets that used to be the saddle tank areas.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Left for the shop last week and right after I got on the highway he died, just like the key was shut off. When I got to the shoulder it was idling and then just died, restarted and died again.

Had time today to finally get into it, turned out to be no spark. The Delco dizzy has a pertronix ignition and I figured it died. I pulled the dizzy from Wilma and popped it in Beater...nothin. Changed the coil and bam, running like a champ. I set the timing and left the Holley points dizzy in Beater and will pickup a performance coil for Wilma and use the Delco in her.
 

71mtnscout

Member
As luck would have it I blew out the fiber style exhaust donut. Found that I had put alot of strain in the system. Added another hanger and let the system "hang" where it will, then tightened everything up. It's not good for any hard trail running cause it going downhill and the muffler drops below the frame. Other than that I think it's good......haha, we'll see! I really don't want to replace it, although a good muffler shop can do wonders.
 

71mtnscout

Member
It was a good day and a bad one..............

The good;
After redoing the exhaust I found the Weber needed a total rebuild and I just happen to have one freshly rebuilt on Wilma.

The bad;
There's a problem in the idle circuit on it, but it runs decently enough that I can drive it.

The good;
Other than the idle burble it runs awesome, clean smooth power throughout the whole RPM range.

I'm waiting of complete rebuild kits now and will go through my Weber stash for a better body with less corrosion in it. :nonod:
 

71mtnscout

Member
I rebuilt the new design Weber that was leaking and this is a completely different 32/36 than the 4 Spanish versions that I have stock piled, so there's a bit of a learning curve on it, and first run with it newly rebuilt was a failure. My idle jets are to small and it's running REALLY lean according to the plugs and how it drives. Pulled it off and replaced it with the early version that I had already rebuilt, it wasn't jetted right, but I have a ton of jets for that model, and here is where I ended up. I need to do an AFR gauge to get it better, but it's running pretty good like this. Primary is 75 idle, 165 main, 180 air corrector/ Secondary is 70 idle, 160 main, 170 air corrector. With this jetting the volume screw is just under 1.5 turns out, that's within spec, and there is no hesitations during off idle transition or when the secondary comes in. An off idle full throttle hit doesn't report a lean cough, and acceleration is smooth with no hesitations right up to redline. It doesn't smell rich and the plugs seem happy with it. I will do a mileage check over the next few weeks and see if it's still in the 18-19 mpg on the highway, but I'm callin it good for now...at least till I do an AFR.
 

FDChappie

Active member
If you look at my thread about tuning a Holley 390cfm 4bbl carb, I believe that I went over the AFR setup I made for under $20. It worked great.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Haven't really done anything to it for awhile. I even stripped her down and put her up for sale, dang near sold it too! Had a guy hot and heavy for her and ended up talking him out of it. That being said...I couldn't do it!!! I really don't have the room but I can't sell her. I guess it's time to start putting her back together, fix the Tcase leak, and start driving her again...kinda got spoiled by the Ranger I bought.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Kinda got back on her today. Remounted the hi lift back on the hood and found a good passenger vent cable on ebay the other day, so today started the revamp of the heating/vent system. I replaced the bad cable on the passenger side and move the drivers cable to a different hole for a little better movement. I also added a choke and heater valve cable that I've had in my stash. I still need to find a throttle cable and fab some way for it to work on the Weber, then all the holes in my dash will be filled. The seals came in for the Tcase and I plan to replace them this week so she's back on the road instead of leaking in the driveway.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Finally got to the Tcase rear main seal...what a PITA!!! It must have been the original cause it was hard as a rock, took forever to get it to back out, had to use a chisel to cut it to release some tension. When I moved it the other day I noticed an exhaust leak, turns out the muffler needs to be replaced now, I have one for it cause I knew it was gettin old. So I ran to Napa and picked up another donut and on the way back the Ranger blew a heater hose so I spent the rest of the day fixing it. That truck has more hoses and pipes on the engine than anything I've ever seen. Turned out that someone put the clamp on the hose next to it with the tangs sticking in the heater hose that blew, I guess attention to detail isn't in demand anymore, I mean how hard is it to pay attention. Either way the Ranger is fixed and it should be nice tomorrow to work on the Scout.
 

71mtnscout

Member
Been busy and got to Beater again today, it appears that the old muffler was plugged enough to effect the tuning of my Weber cause now it's running lean. With that, I've been doing a TON of research on the 32/36 and now have a better working knowledge of its operations and tuning. I pulled the old Spanish Weber off and turned to the newer style one I have with a manual choke. I could never get this carb to run right on her and I finally found out why. It turns out that the secondary butterfly stop was adjusted to far open causing all of my idle adjusting issues...to much vacuum signal. I got that worked out and now with a #90 "fat" main idle jet she's perfect at idle!! Mixture screw is at 1.7-2.0 turns out with the idle speed screw not in contact with the butterfly. She runs like a tractor and she barely idles at 350 rpm but she idles. Idle speed screw is now at .35-.40 turns after contact and she idles at 750 rpm at operating temp. I didn't get to go on a test drive yet, but I'm pretty happy with the results so far...I now know that the idle circuit is correct...it gets easier from here.

To be continued...................
 
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