80 scout 304 Holley 2 barrel

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1980 Scout ii 304 Holley 2 barrel Running Rough/Erratic?

So I purchased a 1980 Scout II that seems to have been sitting stored for some time. I'm experiencing an rough/erratic running 304. I've rebuilt the carb and I'm still having the same results. I've check wires plugs cap and rotor? I can't even get the Scout to idle at correct rpm without stalling. Any help would be appreciated to point in the right direction. I was thinking about the egr valve? The vehicle seems to be all original. When I drove it home I had to put it in neutral when coming to a stop to increase the rpm so that it would not stall. My first thought was to rebuild the carburetor (Holley 2 barrel) and when I opened it I thought it was defiantly the majority of the problem(rust and corrosion). After rebuilding and starting it defiantly runs better but has a real problem still running at low idle. Today I supplied a alternative fuel source to see if the gas tank could be issue, but no change. Also don't think I have a vacuum leak because when I put my hand over the carb it doesn't increase in rpms. Not sure what the next step is, also when I take the vacuum hose of the distributed it doesn't change the rpm either. Wired.... Trying to get my iphone to convert the pic of the intake manifold so I can post some pictures.
 
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1980 Scout ii 304 Holley 2 barrel Running Rough/Erratic?

So I purchased a 1980 Scout II that seems to have been sitting stored for some time. I'm experiencing an rough/erratic running 304. I've rebuilt the carb and I'm still having the same results. I've check wires plugs cap and rotor? I can't even get the Scout to idle at correct rpm without stalling. Any help would be appreciated to point in the right direction. I was thinking about the egr valve? The vehicle seems to be all original. When I drove it home I had to put it in neutral when coming to a stop to increase the rpm so that it would not stall. My first thought was to rebuild the carburetor (Holley 2 barrel) and when I opened it I thought it was defiantly the majority of the problem(rust and corrosion). After rebuilding and starting it defiantly runs better but has a real problem still running at low idle. Today I supplied a alternative fuel source to see if the gas tank could be issue, but no change. Also don't think I have a vacuum leak because when I put my hand over the carb it doesn't increase in rpms. Not sure what the next step is, also when I take the vacuum hose of the distributed it doesn't change the rpm either. Wired.... Trying to get my iphone to convert the pic of the intake manifold so I can post some pictures.
 

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Re: 80 Scout 304 runs erratic/rough

Welcome to the forum. We really need more information about the specific fuel delivery and ignition components that are on your engine. Model year and engine size simply aren't enough to go on given the amount of equipment variations that were available at the time of production in addition to aftermarket parts swapping and retrofitting that May or May not have taken place over the decades. Every situation has the potential to be varying degrees of different from the last. Better to overload us with information and let us filter it down as we go. If you're unsure about something, well lit and focused digital images are often helpful. This forum does have image size restrictions, so downsizing May be required.
 
First off welcome to the IHPA forums. We will always try and get you fixed up.

You say your rig is a Scout 80, they never came with a v8. The first model to have a v8 offered from the factory was the Scout 800. Bacisally the same Scout but with some mods. They were built from late 1965 to 1970 with little change.

If you could a couple of engine compartment photos would help us zero in on the vintage of your Scout and where you May have the problem.
 
I merged your threads since there is no reason to have multiples for the same issue. This will reduce clutter as we progress. You have a Holley model 22xx carb. They are quite finicky to deal with so far removed from new and really not worth the trouble unless your Scout is still subject to periodic smog naziism. You would be better off in the near and far term to upgrade to a Holley model 2300 list 0-7448 which by coincidence can be purchased from IHPA either by phone or thru the online store. This is the same advice I give just about everyone in your position. I am not in the employ of IHPA and receive nothing for any sales that I might drive. You've got a crap carb and the easiest fix is to replace it pure and simple. Now, if that just isn't an option for you right now for whatever reason, of course we will do what we can to help you improve your paperweight model. We need to now specifically what lengths you went to in the cleaning of your carb parts. What product did you use?. I'll tell you right now that unless you got every surface and little passage surgically sterile, you're rebuild effort has failed before you even reached the reassembly phase.
 
The 2210 carb is not really a bad carb. To start with do you get any change when adjusting the idle mixture screws? Just one or both?

It could be a lot of different things so what you'll need to do is go through things very methodically to determine the problem. You can start with quick a shot of carb cleaner down each barrel while idling. Does the engine pick up and smooth out for a bit? This would indicate a lack of fuel or vacuum leak. Again 1 barrel or both?
 
I soaked the disassembled carb in cleaner for 2 days. Removed and cleaned with additional carb cleaner and use air compressor to clean ports. Reassembled, adjusted carb to spec, replaced fuel filter. I will try spraying carb cleaner in today and see if it runs better. I did spray cab cleaner in before I rebuilt and the car actually ran better, which I thought was unusual since carb cleaner make a car bog down.
 
Sure sounds like a vacuum leak. Did you try spraying carb cleaner around the intake, carb base, brake booster hose, wiper motor hose? How do the plugs look? Take a picture and post!
 
Thanks for the advise vacuum hose help, I used the diagram on binder blues to help re work the missing lines to the solenoid vacuum valve that had no lines to it. I noticed a difference immediately! Although not completely fixed I was able to at least get out of the car and adjust the carb more. I also notice now that when I cover my hand over the carb the rpms increase greatly. I think I still May have a vacuum leak and / bad egr valve. Any other advice would be great, also I think I have something missing on the transmission kick down, anyone know is its a spring and if so where it need to be attached to? Thanks for the help!
 

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The most critical part missing is the throttle valve rod often refered to as a kickdown rod, although that is a bit of a misnomer since the rod is necessary for so much more than just forced kickdown into passing gear. You'll want to source one and get it properly adjusted before you place this rig into service. Hopefully not too many miles have been logged minus the rod. Accelerated wear of friction parts will occur resulting in poor function and eventually premature trans failure. The other missing piece is a small diameter, low tension door spring that attaches between the curved prong on your spotted linkage bar and runs to the vacant stud which rides inside the bar slot.
 
The threaded end should have a clevis fitting with holes through it. There should be a bracket with a u-shaped pivot fastened to the intake manifold. The clevis slips over one end of the u-pivot and is secured in place with several cir-clips. With the throttle fully closed, the clevis should slip onto the pivot without needing to apply any forward or reverse manipulation of the rod. Adjust rod length with the clevis as needed to accomplish. At full throttle, a view of the valve linkage down at the trans end of the rod should show the valve linkage almost fully depressed with only a slight amount of rearward travel remaining. Fine tuning of the rod length can be accomplished with road tests to determine that proper shift points at both gentle and hard acceleration are occurring. Shortening the rod makes shifts happen sooner. Lengthening naturally has the opposite effect.
 
This is the picture of what I have, I can't seem to find what I'm looking at to attach this to on the manifold. There is something already going down to the transmission on the right rear of the motor. They had this in the back seat, not sure what the previous owners where trying to achieve?
 

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So they must have replaced it, otherwise I wouldn't be able to drive it, right? Going to check timing today, but still have some sort of vacuum leak, when I put my hand over the carb the idle increase. Any other common vacuum leaks in these Scout. Going to block off booster line too to test that. Thanks for the help!
 
Is the engine hot or cold when you cover the carb? When cold, choking off most of the air supply will help keep the engine running so it can warm up. If the engine seems to run better hot with the choke or your hand applied, then air must be getting drawn in some other way. Usually you can make a hot engine cough and die by closing off/choking the air supply. Do you have a vacuum gauge that you can connect to manifold vacuum? If not, they are a cheap and helpful diagnostic and tuning aid to have in your tool chest. Just a hint...the vac advance line is not a manifold source. It's a ported source. So don't hook your gauge there.

That shift cable is potentially a spare part or a piece of junk. It's function should be evaluated. You can shift the trans into gear. That much is true, but it doesn't mean you should drive it, even if you get the engine running like a top today, until you get that tv rod linkage squared away.
 
I think you were right about the carb. I can bring the mixture screw in all the way ad experience no change. I May get the update carb and go from there. Checked the timing at 10-12, and installed new plugs and wires, replaced all the vacuum lines and blocked off egr. Runs at an idle but not great, stalls when I put in gear. Going to order new carb.
 
That means fuel and likely air is reaching the combustion chamber in an unauthorized manner. I really don't think you'll regret it. Just don't get the list 4412 version. You want the 0-7448. It's a 350 cfm. Standard configuration is manual choke via a pull cable you install in the cab. There is an electric choke option that you can specify at purchase or upgrade it later on. I'm generally a cheap bastard that will try to macguyver and macgruder things to get by, but not with a 2210 carb. My time is worth more than that. Not much more, but enough.
 
Ok good info, sounds like you have a plugged idle circuit. Is it the same for both screws. I've found that water in the fuel, due to it's higher surface tension will act to plug these circuits. My fix for that and it does happen to both the 2210 and 2300 series carbs, is to give it a wide open throttle while going through the gears. This seems to usually suck the water out. If that does not do it some an oz or 2 of denatured alcohol down the vent tube of the carb and a pint in the tank will emulsify the water.

Since the carb's been apart the idle circuits May be plugged with debris.
 
Re: 1980 scout 304 Holley 2 barrel

So is this carb worth opening up again? When idling(rough) I experience no difference whether the mixture screws turned in or out, also when I spray carb cleaner in it the rpm increases. When I pump the pedal with the engine off I do see two fine sprays of gas entering both sides of the carb.
 
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