62 Crew Cab 4x4 restoration project

One way to handle a bad situation is to write a check, collect the truck and then immediately cancel the check. I had to do that with a totally dishonest shop once. I then sent them a check for 1/2 the amount of the job, because that is about what they accomplished. They then turned me into collections, but didn't inform the collections agency that they had a check for 1/2 the amount of the job. The collections company made them return the check and continued trying to collect. I contacted my attorney about it and he said to tell the collections co to contact him and that was the end of it.

Except there was a ton of work to sandblast the interior tub of the Scout where they painted it so it could be line-x'ed. And on and on with lots of other stuff they did wrong.

Glad our paint job turned out ok!
 
Thank you, everyone. And fdchappie, I like your way of dealing with dishonest people.

Today, I was trying to figure out how to lock up the truck. After four trips to the hardware store, I've finally figured out how to lock the hood down with a padlock, no drilling, no welding, and no visible sign of it anywhere. That should deter anyone from stealing a battery or hot-wiring the vehicle. I've had 3 vehicles stolen and I don't want this to be a fourth.

Next step is to figure out how to lock the doors, then immobilize the vehicle so it can't be hooked and towed. I was looking at the boot type of wheel locks like police use. They sell them for about $100 on ebay, however those are mostly for a psychological deterrent show only. I was reading about all the different ways of how to quickly free your vehicle from their grip using a couple common tools, and sometimes using no tools at all, depending on the configuration of the wheel and tire. The ones that are impervious to everything but a cutting torch go for about $800 - far beyond my present budget.

Otherwise I'm still looking for suggestions on how to "theft-proof" my truck. I really don't want to remove the wheels and sit it on blocks as that would be such a pain every time I wanted to drive it somewhere, but that is about the only suggestion I've had so far.

That brings me to my next question, if anyone knows the answer. My front wheel locking hubs use two little set screws to attach them to the hub. However, today I noticed the set screws look like it needs an extremely tiny custom socket like the 7th one in the attached picture below. Those in the picture are made as wheel lug nut locks. But I need an extremely tiny set-screw version of the 7th socket shown there. Anyone have any idea where I could purchase such a socket? Is this another po sabotage or are such sockets somewhat common, and use something similar like a torx wrench or a bristol wrench? What's the name or what would I call such a set-screw wrench with the hole in the center?

Thanks.

Steve
 

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And another question - why did this picture appear in my post when all my other pictures appear only as links? I didn't do anything different.
.
 
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overdrivesteve said:
and another question - why did this picture appear in my post when all my other pictures appear only as links? I didn't do anything different.
.
Click to expand...

When you post only one picture it will show up like your previous post. When you post several pictures you have to link them to your post as an image. I went back and edited your last post with multiple pictures so that they show up. Go back to that post and click the edit button. From there you should be able to see what I did and duplicate it on your future posts.

Btw - nice build up! Love the travelette you have there.
 
A locked garage is probably the best way, you know out of sight, out of mind. Do you have a regular parking space for the truck? If so, perhaps a big chain to a post?
 
The socket is an anti-theft bit, also called a tamperproof bit .I have an assortment of them if you need to borrow or harbor freight has them
 
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Hi,

thank you for the compliments, everyone.

Jeff campbell said:
looks good steve,nice job-Jeff:icon_mrgreen:
Click to expand...

And it will look even nicer once I install that nice, nos white steering wheel I got from you. I can never thank you enough for that one. Thanks again.

Hopefully now I can get back to the important work of making this truck driveable.

fdchappie said:
a locked garage is probably the best way, you know out of sight, out of mind. Do you have a regular parking space for the truck? If so, perhaps a big chain to a post?
Click to expand...

That actually might work, I'll chain it up like a dog (is there such a thing as an International dog?). ;-) that won't stop a determined thief, but it will stop the opportunistic thief who happens to be driving down the street with a tow truck, and seeing the truck and unlocked gate, decides to hook and book.

On a related note, I've pad-locked the hood in such a way that it cannot be seen; and without drilling or welding anything. But there is no way I can think of pad-locking the doors so it cannot be seen from outside or inside the truck without doing a little bit of welding. So my next day off on Wednesday is going to consist of a few more trips to the hardware store to make the necessary pieces. Then I need to find a mobile welder, or a welder with a shop close by to me here in van nuys. I don't yet trust this truck to take me around the block - far too many things still wrong with it, and too many things I have not looked at yet, such as the brakes, inoperative gas gauge, bad wiring etc. So any recommendations for any welders here in the san fernando valley, anyone?

I once had a 57 Chevy 4x4 panel truck I locked this way. And once I came home to find the headlight bezels and front bumper gone, and they made a serious attempt to get inside, but did not succeed. I suspect if I did not have the hood and doors locked more securely than just with the little factory door locks, that vehicle probably would have disappeared too. And that truck was parked down a hill, in my carport on a dead-end street. Where as this truck is parked in my drive-way on a busy residential street. I've seen evidence that people have been in my truck already, but it looks really rough inside right now and with not much of anything worth stealing.

Also once, a few weeks ago, when working on the truck, I left for less than a minute to get something, and when I came back, someone was there on a bicycle looking over the tools and truck. His story - he was there looking for a job to work on the house.

71sa200-1110 said:
the socket is an anti-theft bit, also called a tamperproof bit .I have an assortment of them if you need to borrow or harbor freight has them
Click to expand...

Thank you for the offer. I will check with harbor freight first, and if they don't have them, I would like to borrow yours. I never thought about it before, but I do like the idea of locking on the locking hubs. But where do you get the replacement set screws? Like most things on this truck, I'm sure the po stripped them too.

I think that was his method of making things theft-proof. I did a test-fit of the snow-plow grill guard onto the front of the truck. To make things more manageable, I first removed the big lights and their brackets from the grill guard. 6 of the 8 bolts holding them on had their nuts so stripped that they would just spin. And the only way for me to get them off was I had to hack-saw them off.

I'll post pics of the grill guard and other work once I get to that point in the build. At that time I'll ask your opinion if I should even use the grill guard and lights. I like the idea of the off-road lights mounted there in front, but it looks odd, at least to me, probably because I've never seen a snow plow's grill guard and lights before.

I have the front hood emblem, but not sure what emblems should go on the side of the hood and doors. Could people please post pictures or links to pictures here of what those emblems should be for a 62 pick-up and-or crew cab?

Thank you all.

Steve
 
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Jeff campbell said:
steve,do you have all the emblem's / badges for your truck ? Don't have door lock's ? Jeff
Click to expand...
Hi,
not sure if I have all the emblems or not, but don't think so. It appears there should be two on the side of the hood, one above the gas tank filler on the passenger front fender, and something on the front doors. The front passenger door also has a gold emblem on it that says "custom" but don't see any evidence where a similar emblem goes on the drivers door.
Steve
 
Jeff campbell said:
steve,do you have all the emblem's / badges for your truck ? Don't have door lock's ? Jeff
Click to expand...

Hi,
I definitely do not have any of the emblems or badges that go on the truck, other than the big one on the front of the hood, so I am looking for them all.
I'm also looking for any gas tank filler tube pieces I May be missing. See this thread to know what I'm referring to:
http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/9971-am-I-missing-something.html

Today I finally began working on the truck. First task was to get the door locks replaced and working. I had no key to one lock, and the other lock with a key was broken and every time the key was removed, the cylinder would come out with it.

There is a clip that holds the lock cylinder in place in the door - very easy to tap into place or remove (from inside the door). But, as only a po can do it, rather than tapping the clip down over the cylinder, the po tapped the clip directly over the lock cylinder, and somehow snapped it into place in a direction where it could not be tapped out as it was tight against the door edge, but could only be tapped in the direction of the inside door edge to remove the lock. If you don't know what I mean, that is ok as I am just ranting about the po's stupidity again. Here is the clip, the large one on the right, I am talking about:
door lock cylinder clip for Scout II - International Scout parts

I had to break the clip to get the lock out to take to a locksmith to rekey.

That was another adventure, as most locksmiths here can no longer work on these locks. Finally the 4th automotive locksmith I took the locks to was able to rekey the locks. He also had a box of old lock clips - I bought 2 (it's good to have an extra just in case...) for a dollar each.

Next on my agenda was to begin repairing all the leaks in the gas tank and filler assembly. The po strikes again - he used a radiator hose as a gas filler tube, sliced and flared out at the top to attach at the filler plate, and had no provisions to do anything with the vent tube now just dangling next to the filler radiator filler hose tube.

You can see pictures here:
http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/9971-am-I-missing-something.html

It's late, I'm tired, and I need to go to work tomorrow, so good night for now. I hope you enjoy the story of the drama of this build...

Steve
 
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Hi,
just a little update on the door locks I repaired yesterday.

I actually took 4 locks to the locksmith. Between them, he was only able to get 2 to work properly. And they are now keyed alike.

The latch assembly was previously shot with wd-40 and worked very well. But in installing the first lock, it was very difficult to get it to work smoothly. Felt like I was going to break the key every time I turned it. In the end, it turns out that because the lock part of the latch had not been used for countless years, I had to work it with a screw driver and pb blaster and wd-40 until I could get it to work smoothly. Then re-installed the lock assembly and it works ok now.

I then went to work on the drivers door lock - I thought the problem was the same, shot it with pb blaster then wd-40, but actually the problem was different. Sometimes it would work and sometimes no matter how hard I turned the key, it would not unlock. I suppose that's why the po removed that lock assembly long ago. It turns out that, for some unknown reason, the window channel interferes with the latch piece moved by the door lock cylinder. Simply bending the window felt channel a little at that point fixed that problem. The lock on this door now smoothly locks and unlocks.

I also found the smaller lock cylinder clips on these doors were much easier to remove and install than the larger "stock" clips, both shown here:
door lock cylinder clip for Scout II - International Scout parts

Just passing along a couple lessons I learned in replacing the locks on these doors.

Steve
 
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Shoot some silicone or teflon spray on those locks. The products you used are good for freeing things up, but are not good lubricants.
 
fdchappie said:
shoot some silicone or teflon spray on those locks. The products you used are good for freeing things up, but are not good lubricants.
Click to expand...

Hi,

in the past I used to just squish some wheel bearing grease onto the door latch and window regulator mechanisms inside the door as it was water-resistant and seemed to stay there forever. But I'm sure lubricant technology has improved since then.

What "brand" of spray-on lubricant would you consider to be the very best for this application? And for window regulators too?

Thanks.

Steve
 
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In the door lock tumblers I like tri flow on the latches and window regulators I use a white lithium spray grease.
 
fdchappie said:
in the door lock tumblers I like tri flow on the latches and window regulators I use a white lithium spray grease.
Click to expand...

Thank you chappie for the reply and info.

Seems like I get so little free time to work on this project. One of the next problems I've decided to work on are the massive fuel leaks this truck has from both the fuel filler and top of the gas tank - gas seems to pour out of both places. The fuel gauge also always shows empty.

I somewhat addressed the fuel filler problem in the thread: http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/9971-am-I-missing-something.html

I've decided to first go with the stock filler hose, although very pricey. Then, depending on how it works, I May go with a custom filler tube if I find a problem. Eventually I'm sure I will go with a custom fill tube when I install an over-sized fuel tank system, but that is later. So I am still considering the suggestions people have posted there and and sent by pm - all very much appreciated.

But before I start stirring things up by pulling the gas tank, I decided to install the fuel filters I have had sitting here.

This first is a high-capacity 2 micron filter I put between the fuel tank and fuel pump. I chose the wix base part number 24770 because it can be installed with the inlet and outlet on either side. (I put them both on the same side, as you can see). Although I used a wix fuel filter p/n 33528, eventually when I change that filter, I will use a baldwin bf7633. This 2 micron filter is in contrast to the little inline 140 micron fuel filters normally used. When I started the engine, the stock/leaking fuel pump was able to fill and suck the gas through that big filter and the engine never had a miss.

I still have the fuel pump itself to rebuild/replace as it has always leaked from the day I got the truck. And the carb twice started leaking badly, but with a tap on the side, it stopped. Hopefully it was just dirt, and the new filters will keep that from happening again.

I also hung a little fuel/water separator fuel filter on the carburetor. It also lets me see the general condition of the gas. It uses a 10 micron filter, wix p/n 33034 although I'm sure I'll change that to a baldwin, p/n pf857. For the record, my fuel pump has a glass bowl attached, and it uses the wix 33943 or baldwin pf859 filter.

I did a lot of research on filters and wrote up my findings in detail on the second page of this thread:

http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/ba...2-there-different-grades-wix-oil-filters.html

I could have wrote another 3 or 4 pages, mostly on beta ratios and other specs to support my conclusions, but decided it was already approaching information overload for most people.

Today I also finally installed the proper battery hold-downs. Previously the battery was held by a bungee that seemed as old as the truck, very cracked and deteriorated and about to break. With no shop, and so little time, for now I have to be satisfied with these little accomplishments ;-)

most likely the next installment of this build will be the removal and repair of the gas tank. Any advice anyone can offer would be appreciated.

Anyway, here's pics of my two little gasoline filters I installed. Kind of extreme, but that is supposed to be the theme of this build for ultimate reliability. Careful measurements were made so as not to interfere with the heater box assembly on either side of the firewall, after its repair and installation.

20219d1371119412-62-crew-cab-4x4-restoration-project-fuel_filtera1.jpg

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fdchappie said:
I like that air cleaner with the duck bill to drain any water drawn into the intake. Is it stock???
Click to expand...

Hi,
yes it's stock - for some IH engines but not this one. This was a nos housing for a turbo diesel IH engine, but I no longer remember which model or year. The housing still has the part number sticker on it, but the lid is no longer available from IH. Is its purpose to drain water? It appears it would take a little pressure to open that rubber duck bill up; with water and/or vacuum it appears to be sealed, but I could be wrong. I thought it might be a form of backup pressure release if the turbo over-pressurized the intake - but I'm just guessing.

I would really like to find a proper lid for it. It uses a 14 inch lid. The one on there now is from an old dodge car from a pick-a-part yard. The problem is it's 1/4 inch off in height. With a 5 in high filter, I need to use a 1/4 in rubber gasket under the filter element to seal properly, and with a 5.5 in high filter element, it sticks up 1/4 inch. They don't make a 5.25 in high filter element for truck applications. I'm looking for a mostly flat lid. There are some 14 in lids used on some trucks that are 2 inches high, but 7 inches total, although they make filters that high, is too high to fit under the hood of my truck.

Everyone, the next time you're at the local wrecking yards, or checking your pile of old parts, please check to see if you have any 14 in air cleaner lids. Pick-a-part here doesn't usually have larger old trucks, and most other wrecking yards here, for liability reasons, won't let you walk around "looking". You need to tell them the year and model of truck and they will let you know if they have parts for it.

Thanks for your help.

Steve
 
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It looks like you will be filtering your fuel extremely well.

I would have put the sediment bowl first inline to screen out all of the big chunks. I am about ready to install one myself due to all of the chunks that keep blocking up my driver's side fuel tank line.

I would also be concerned about getting the sediment bowl too warm where you have it mounted. 'binders are not prone to vapor locking but the new ethanol blended fuels change the boiling point downwards making vapor lock a real concern.
 
marko said:
it looks like you will be filtering your fuel extremely well.

I would have put the sediment bowl first inline to screen out all of the big chunks. I am about ready to install one myself due to all of the chunks that keep blocking up my driver's side fuel tank line.

I would also be concerned about getting the sediment bowl too warm where you have it mounted. 'binders are not prone to vapor locking but the new ethanol blended fuels change the boiling point downwards making vapor lock a real concern.
Click to expand...

Hi marko,

I think that big spin-on fuel filter has so much "dirt" holding capacity that it can hold all the big chunks and tiny 2 micron size bits that could possibly be in my gas tank. As for vapor lock, we will see, but I will definitely post it here in this thread if that happens. But won't really know until I take it out in the desert camping next year.

But tonight when looking to get some comparison prices for a new sending unit for my gas tank, I came across this picture (attached below) of the fuel tank recommended as stock for my truck.

It looks so obvious how the filler and fuel line should connect to this tank. Or is that the filler and vent, and the fuel line pickup is attached with the sending unit? But it looks kind of low to be a vent line as I would think the vent should exit from the top of the tank. But then where is the vent hookup? Or fuel line output? I just don't know as I have no experience with IH trucks. Can others please tell me, is this what your fender-fill, side frame mounted gas tank looks like??? And where are your vent and fuel line connections?

Mine doesn't look anything like this at all. Now I wonder if the p.o. Put some other gas tank in its place. My fuel line is a hard line that comes from some hidden side of the gas tank, comes down and around under the tank, then looks cut near the bottom of the rubber filler hose tube. And clamped to it is the rubber fuel line going to the fuel filter.

And the filler hose goes to a metal pipe that also goes to an unseen side of the tank. And this metal pipe is very lose so I suspect it is attached with another rubber coupling to the tank's actual input.

If mine isn't the proper tank, but this one in the attached picture is the proper tank that should be in my truck, I've got some more serious decisions to make real soon. Do I try and fix my tank with oem parts, or do I get a replacement oem tank like shown below (very pricey) and outfit it with oem parts, or do I design a custom tank, then outfit it with oem parts so the gas gauge reads correctly, stock fuel filler fills correctly, etc. Pros: it will have a much greater capacity, and will have no corrosion issues; cons: very much more time consuming, and will be just as expensive as a new stock replacement tank.

I once had a 57 Chevy panel 4x4 I designed a 60 gallon gas tank for that I was very happy with. If I get no more response to my questions about this gas tank as I did to my power steering questions here,
http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/9999-general-power-steering-info-wanted.html
I'll just have to design my own gas tank as I have no idea about the proper way a stock gas tank should look or hook up.

Steve

p.s. Is this safe, or is there some safety factor/device/engineering I'm not aware of? I always thought gasoline tanks should be on the inside of the frame because if another vehicle ever runs into the side of your truck, you'll go up in the biggest ball of flames this side of 9-11. And I don't want to live the remainder of my life in the burn ward of a hospital. I've never had a truck with the gas tank on the outside of the frame. ...so little I know about IH trucks. :(
 

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The stock location of the fuel tanks of the '69-75 d-series pickups was on the outside of the frame in a side saddle configuration, and I wouldn't be at all surprised to learn that the earlier models featured a similar design. That's certainly better than having a tank in the cab behind the seat as many domestic trucks sported even up into the early '70's, but logic dictates that an inside the frame location would be preferable, as seen on most light trucks produced post-1980. Its hard to pinch a tank between the body and the frame in a t-bone collision if the tank is mounted inside the frame. That said, if you remember back in the late 80's/early 90's when stone phillips was attempting his major expose of the '73-80 GM "rolling firebomb" pickups with side-saddle tanks, his "objective" news program actually rigged the subject trucks to ensure that they would burst into flames in a dramatic, hollywood-style display. It was a major hoax. There were literally millions of those trucks produced, a reasonable percentage of which are still on the highway. How many actual "rolling firebomb" incidents have you heard of involving that vintage of GM trucks?
 
The one real advantage of going to one large tank between the frame rails behind the rear axle like suburbans is you can get a tank that is much larger than the combined amount you can get in the standard and optional tanks.

Of course, filling up one 40 or 60 gallon tank takes a whole lot more $$$ than filling one ihc tank at a time.

On my driver's side tank I have some real issues with crud and corruption. So much so the stock pick up won't pick up any longer.

I solved the problem by plumbing in a feed out the bottom through the drain hole.

Yes I get a lot of stuff but it is fairly easy to get to in order to clean the line out.
 
Great looking truck my friend. Just started following it today. Curious though, do you have a manual for this truck? Have you thought about buying one? I bought one for my Scout II and it was like somebody turned on the light switch. This forum has a lot of great info but I would highly recommened a manual. I know the feeling with doing a driveway budget builder. The limitations suck! Hang in there with all the po finds. I have had my Scout for 2 years and still find stuff all fuged up. Look forward to more posts and hope you get that thing more on a "drivability" state. Even if its to the local liqour store for a 6 pack. Get that truck out there so it can be appreciated. Keep up the good work man. Kcco!
 
overdrivesteve said:
hi marko,

I think that big spin-on fuel filter has so much "dirt" holding capacity that it can hold all the big chunks and tiny 2 micron size bits that could possibly be in my gas tank. As for vapor lock, we will see, but I will definitely post it here in this thread if that happens. But won't really know until I take it out in the desert camping next year.

But tonight when looking to get some comparison prices for a new sending unit for my gas tank, I came across this picture (attached below) of the fuel tank recommended as stock for my truck.

It looks so obvious how the filler and fuel line should connect to this tank. Or is that the filler and vent, and the fuel line pickup is attached with the sending unit? But it looks kind of low to be a vent line as I would think the vent should exit from the top of the tank. But then where is the vent hookup? Or fuel line output? I just don't know as I have no experience with IH trucks. Can others please tell me, is this what your fender-fill, side frame mounted gas tank looks like??? And where are your vent and fuel line connections?

Mine doesn't look anything like this at all. Now I wonder if the p.o. Put some other gas tank in its place. My fuel line is a hard line that comes from some hidden side of the gas tank, comes down and around under the tank, then looks cut near the bottom of the rubber filler hose tube. And clamped to it is the rubber fuel line going to the fuel filter.

And the filler hose goes to a metal pipe that also goes to an unseen side of the tank. And this metal pipe is very lose so I suspect it is attached with another rubber coupling to the tank's actual input.

If mine isn't the proper tank, but this one in the attached picture is the proper tank that should be in my truck, I've got some more serious decisions to make real soon. Do I try and fix my tank with oem parts, or do I get a replacement oem tank like shown below (very pricey) and outfit it with oem parts, or do I design a custom tank, then outfit it with oem parts so the gas gauge reads correctly, stock fuel filler fills correctly, etc. Pros: it will have a much greater capacity, and will have no corrosion issues; cons: very much more time consuming, and will be just as expensive as a new stock replacement tank.

I once had a 57 Chevy panel 4x4 I designed a 60 gallon gas tank for that I was very happy with. If I get no more response to my questions about this gas tank as I did to my power steering questions here,
http://forums.IHPartsAmerica.com/basic-tech-questions/9999-general-power-steering-info-wanted.html
I'll just have to design my own gas tank as I have no idea about the proper way a stock gas tank should look or hook up.

Steve

p.s. Is this safe, or is there some safety factor/device/engineering I'm not aware of? I always thought gasoline tanks should be on the inside of the frame because if another vehicle ever runs into the side of your truck, you'll go up in the biggest ball of flames this side of 9-11. And I don't want to live the remainder of my life in the burn ward of a hospital. I've never had a truck with the gas tank on the outside of the frame. ...so little I know about IH trucks. :(
Click to expand...
What about the old Ford pinto's ? They had rear end tanks, and would explode if hit in the rear ! ? a side tank is better than that ? the d-series truck's are on the outside of the frame . just too much thinking ? Jeff:icon_mrgreen:
 
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