345 vs 392IC
- Thread starter 1hc72
- Start date
Robert Kenney
Super Moderator
The intake manifold bolts are 3/8 and use a 9/16 wrench. 1/2 for carb bolts.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Some of those intake bolts can be challenging to get proper torque applied in either direction. Don't put all your eggs in one basket from a wrench perspective. Bring an arsenal so that you have an assortment of sockets, short and deep, thin and thick wall plus different lengths of socket extensions as well as combination open/box end wrenches. You May have assorted brackets and other brick a brack in the way. Some of the bolts are super easy to get at, while others towards the rear of the engine can be a pain. You just need to be prepared for whatever.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
One more thing. The intake bolts are different lengths based on the thickness of the casting around each given bolt hole. Thick holes get the longer bolts and thin holes get the short ones, so keep your bolts somewhat orgeenyzd so that you don't get square pegs going into round holes if you know what I mean.
Yes I do, I got a few of them off. Didnt come witht he right sockets/box. Got a few off, got carb off, carb adapter plate offthermostat housing off. I do have a few question on parts. Pics coming now.
For the carb is that a spread or squarebore?? And rest of parts what are they??? Sorry I didnt label them when I was taking them, I tried to get good pictures
For the carb is that a spread or squarebore?? And rest of parts what are they??? Sorry I didnt label them when I was taking them, I tried to get good pictures
Attachments
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Pic 1 is an Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve. Its an emissions device.
Pic 2 shows a heater hose fitting with a bunged up hose barb. You can get a new one at a hardware store. Take the old one with you for easy comparison.
Pic 3 shows the temp gauge sender. The wire hanging loose just to the side of it attaches to the exposed stud.
Pic 4 is an aftermarket 4bbl carb adapter/spacer.
Pic 5 shows a spreadbore intake identified by the small primary and large secondary bores.
Pic 2 shows a heater hose fitting with a bunged up hose barb. You can get a new one at a hardware store. Take the old one with you for easy comparison.
Pic 3 shows the temp gauge sender. The wire hanging loose just to the side of it attaches to the exposed stud.
Pic 4 is an aftermarket 4bbl carb adapter/spacer.
Pic 5 shows a spreadbore intake identified by the small primary and large secondary bores.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
You need to install a block off plate if you choose to delete the valve. With the 4bbl intake it has to be either a 345 or 392. Most likely a 345.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Best way is the ID pad machined into the block on a surface near the fuel pump. It will probably be greased and slimed over so some scraping and brushing followed by good lighting and maybe a closeup snapped on your cell cam should reveal the stamped in numbers. Another identifier of the Improved Cooling 392 ('72 and later) is to see where the metal coolant tubes enter the front of the engine. If they go into the engine block, its a 392 IC. The tubes go into the cylinder heads on the other engines.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Can't tell from that angle.
jeff campbell
Active member
ok guys i must be a speical form of stupid (ha ha ha) well i got the 392( i think) intake all cleaned up, painted and ready to drop onto the motor. Well i ran into a semi major issue, the block that has the water temp sending unit. wel its too large to fit into the new intake. enclosed is pic. maybe you can tell me were i can get the corect peice, or tell me were it needs to go??????
hope yall can help. i will get more pics if needed. i had more taken, but i forgot to hit "submit" here and lost them,
hope yall can help. i will get more pics if needed. i had more taken, but i forgot to hit "submit" here and lost them,
