Reason I ask is that first, I'm interested in doing the same thing and appreciate the fact that you're working the bugs out
and second, the rotor must be piloted by the hub to keep it centerd up. Otherwise you're going to have problems.
1971 Scout II - Update/Modernization Build
- Thread starter Chris Pucci
- Start date
Reason I ask is that first, I'm interested in doing the same thing and appreciate the fact that you're working the bugs out
and second, the rotor must be piloted by the hub to keep it centerd up. Otherwise you're going to have problems.Chris Pucci
Active member
Finally got back to work on the ol' boy. Started the wiring...
Pulled out all the 'green' wires. Pulled out the battery and cables. Pulled out the dash.
Built a second battery tray on the passenger side, added a battery isolator, added a Ford starter soleniod. Wired up a dual battery system.
Started the ezwiring install. Ran into a huge hassle right away. The '71 Scout II body does not have the mounting provisions for the GM style fuse block (on my later model Scout II the GM style fuse block bolted right to the fire wall in about 1 minute...). So I had to fab up a patch/mounting panel from some aluminum before I could even start. Pulled a few wires to the correct location. Still have about 20 hours of work to do...
Also added a hood lock system that my lil' bro had purchased a long time ago. It mounts under the dash and has a round key like a bike lock. It locks the hood shut and cuts the ingnition at the same time time.
Pulled out all the 'green' wires. Pulled out the battery and cables. Pulled out the dash.
Built a second battery tray on the passenger side, added a battery isolator, added a Ford starter soleniod. Wired up a dual battery system.
Started the ezwiring install. Ran into a huge hassle right away. The '71 Scout II body does not have the mounting provisions for the GM style fuse block (on my later model Scout II the GM style fuse block bolted right to the fire wall in about 1 minute...). So I had to fab up a patch/mounting panel from some aluminum before I could even start. Pulled a few wires to the correct location. Still have about 20 hours of work to do...
Also added a hood lock system that my lil' bro had purchased a long time ago. It mounts under the dash and has a round key like a bike lock. It locks the hood shut and cuts the ingnition at the same time time.
Chris Pucci
Active member
I spent some more time on the 'project' I fought the wiring for another 2 full days. God I hate wiring.
After getting everything in I had a short in the headlight circuit that would pop the 30 amp self resetting headlight fuse in about 15 seconds after you turned on the lights...
I pulled the switch in and out, swapped it with 2 different healdight switches, check fuses, chased every wire, pulled every light and bulb, started undoing all the split loom....
Then I took a step back and had a beer. And started testing out everything one circuit at a time. I isolated the headlight - worked, front marker lights - worked, dash/interior lights - worked, rear tail lights - pop!
So after hours -- seriously at least 4-5 hours - I had isolated the problem the the rear. I started tearing the rear lights out and checking every wire. Turns out the freakin' license plate light with the 2 wires that go up into the tailgate are not a hot and ground.... They are both hots that tie together at the back of the lil' license plate light. Doh!!! I was sending the rear circuit straight to a ground.
With that fixed and a half dozen new bulbs -- I have every light on the truck working brighter than ever.
After getting everything in I had a short in the headlight circuit that would pop the 30 amp self resetting headlight fuse in about 15 seconds after you turned on the lights...
I pulled the switch in and out, swapped it with 2 different healdight switches, check fuses, chased every wire, pulled every light and bulb, started undoing all the split loom....
Then I took a step back and had a beer. And started testing out everything one circuit at a time. I isolated the headlight - worked, front marker lights - worked, dash/interior lights - worked, rear tail lights - pop!
So after hours -- seriously at least 4-5 hours - I had isolated the problem the the rear. I started tearing the rear lights out and checking every wire. Turns out the freakin' license plate light with the 2 wires that go up into the tailgate are not a hot and ground.... They are both hots that tie together at the back of the lil' license plate light. Doh!!! I was sending the rear circuit straight to a ground.
With that fixed and a half dozen new bulbs -- I have every light on the truck working brighter than ever.
Chris Pucci
Active member
Next step in the process is the dash and gauges.
I am working with Jeff (ihonlynorth Jeff, if there was any question) on getting a full matching set of isspro gauges. Speedo, tach, fuel, volts, water temp, tranny temp, and oil pressure. With the new stainless dash it should really look good.
So my wiring days are not over.
After that it is back under the hood to get the dang thing running right.
Then maybe, just maybe I can ship it off the California and get my garage back!
I am working with Jeff (ihonlynorth Jeff, if there was any question) on getting a full matching set of isspro gauges. Speedo, tach, fuel, volts, water temp, tranny temp, and oil pressure. With the new stainless dash it should really look good.
So my wiring days are not over.
After that it is back under the hood to get the dang thing running right.
Then maybe, just maybe I can ship it off the California and get my garage back!
Chris Pucci
Active member
And to give an update on my lil' brother (cause he kicks ass):
he was just promoted to captain and given command of his battery in africa. If he doesn't get his ass blown off he might make be off to a good career in the army.
Old picture of him training...
he was just promoted to captain and given command of his battery in africa. If he doesn't get his ass blown off he might make be off to a good career in the army.
Old picture of him training...
Chris Pucci
Active member
One minor update.
I installed a new pertronix last night (#1481). I fried the last one by leaving the key on for a week or so....
They are so easy to install I did the swap in my "good clothes" in about 5 minutes when I got home from work.
It fired right up 1st try.... Nice!
Anybody need a fried pertronix and magnet??
I installed a new pertronix last night (#1481). I fried the last one by leaving the key on for a week or so....
They are so easy to install I did the swap in my "good clothes" in about 5 minutes when I got home from work.
It fired right up 1st try.... Nice!
Anybody need a fried pertronix and magnet??
Korllach
Member
and to give an update on my lil' brother (cause he kicks ass):
he was just promoted to captain and given command of his battery in africa. If he doesn't get his ass blown off he might make be off to a good career in the army.
Old picture of him training...
Jeezus an officer with a saw!!! You scared teh shite outta me!!
Michael Mayben
IHPA Tech Moderator - Retired & No Longer Online
Thanks for posting yore bro's pic chris! With his hat on, yawl look like twins!!!
Git yore pop to load up the whole famdamly down in lalaland and bring 'em to the bee! Yawl kin do the bbq deal at shorty's!! We'll make cap'n our guest of honor (if he promises to wear hiz hat)!
Dam I'm proud of all you soldier boyz and gurlz!!!!
Git yore pop to load up the whole famdamly down in lalaland and bring 'em to the bee! Yawl kin do the bbq deal at shorty's!! We'll make cap'n our guest of honor (if he promises to wear hiz hat)!
Dam I'm proud of all you soldier boyz and gurlz!!!!
Chris Pucci
Active member
jeezus an officer with a saw!!! You scared teh shite outta me!!
Legend has it he melted the foregrip off that saw at the range.
something about too many rounds or something. But they had told him it was "indestructible". It got so hot he said "it just kind of came off with a suction sound" he managed to 'stick' it back on before he had to turn it in.
Korllach
Member
One of the full size s.a.w.'s is responsible for my tendinosis in my right shoulder. They are a heavy bitch!
Yeah, if you dont change that barrel out, the plastic fore grip and the top heat sheild can start melting / warping.
Barrel gets so hot that the bullet is actually cooler than the barrel and you can see the rounds going through the barrel.
Not... That... I would ever ... Do that... With.. My ... Assigned weapon or anything....
this time, if they offer me to be the saw gunner, I am gonna tell them to shove it! My m4 will do just fine thank you! Let one of the other young bucks hump that damn thing.
Yeah, if you dont change that barrel out, the plastic fore grip and the top heat sheild can start melting / warping.
Barrel gets so hot that the bullet is actually cooler than the barrel and you can see the rounds going through the barrel.
Not... That... I would ever ... Do that... With.. My ... Assigned weapon or anything....
this time, if they offer me to be the saw gunner, I am gonna tell them to shove it! My m4 will do just fine thank you! Let one of the other young bucks hump that damn thing.
Korllach
Member
Got a few on my facebook
aaron sword's photos | facebook
Also, your brothers Scout is freaking beautiful!
aaron sword's photos | facebook
Also, your brothers Scout is freaking beautiful!
Drew Merrick
Member
one of the full size s.a.w.'s is responsible for my tendinosis in my right shoulder. They are a heavy bitch!
Yeah, if you dont change that barrel out, the plastic fore grip and the top heat sheild can start melting / warping.
Barrel gets so hot that the bullet is actually cooler than the barrel and you can see the rounds going through the barrel.
Not... That... I would ever ... Do that... With.. My ... Assigned weapon or anything....
this time, if they offer me to be the saw gunner, I am gonna tell them to shove it! My m4 will do just fine thank you! Let one of the other young bucks hump that damn thing.
I never had a saw, but I humped an m-60 for 4 years. They don't call that weapon a pig for nothing.
Chris Pucci
Active member
Bling!
Full set of isspro gauges all electric (except speedo which uses factory style connection). Nice, real nice.
Full set of isspro gauges all electric (except speedo which uses factory style connection). Nice, real nice.
Lyle Wiese
Member
Looks great, chris. Your brother will be really happy with it.
Lyle
Lyle
Chris Pucci
Active member
Has it been 3 months since my last update? What have I been doing... (house work, baby on the way, working...)
so I have been back at it the last few days and have made some progress:
I did the peel & seal and bubble foil insulation on the inside of the top - it should keep the noise and heat way down. It went pretty easy -- just time consuming.
Got the dash, gauges and stereo installed! Went with all new isspro electric gauges - they look nice and should work great. The stereo is a sony 'marine' cd/mp3/ipod ready unit. It all looks way better in person. Even all the dash lights work. The only gauge that doesn't work right is the fuel gauge due to a bad sender - and the speedometer has not been tested as the truck hasn't moved yet.
To make it move better I swapped in a new carb and bolted in a new fan shroud.
so I have been back at it the last few days and have made some progress:
I did the peel & seal and bubble foil insulation on the inside of the top - it should keep the noise and heat way down. It went pretty easy -- just time consuming.
Got the dash, gauges and stereo installed! Went with all new isspro electric gauges - they look nice and should work great. The stereo is a sony 'marine' cd/mp3/ipod ready unit. It all looks way better in person. Even all the dash lights work. The only gauge that doesn't work right is the fuel gauge due to a bad sender - and the speedometer has not been tested as the truck hasn't moved yet.
To make it move better I swapped in a new carb and bolted in a new fan shroud.
Chris Pucci
Active member
Next on the list is to finish the interior with a new headliner and scrub up the side panels. After that I will do some more peel and seal and bubble foil insulation on the firewall to keep the noise and heat down. I should be able to get that taken care of Sunday.
Also in the last few days I have resealed the rear diff. Added a trans temp sender, swapped in the new water temp and oil pressure senders for the new gauges. Wired in the transmission shifter light (somehow it was missed on the full rewire... Opps).
It might be driveable in the next week or so!!
Good thing as it is scheduled to leave to California in mid October, done or not -- it is leaving before the baby shows up.
Also in the last few days I have resealed the rear diff. Added a trans temp sender, swapped in the new water temp and oil pressure senders for the new gauges. Wired in the transmission shifter light (somehow it was missed on the full rewire... Opps).
It might be driveable in the next week or so!!
Good thing as it is scheduled to leave to California in mid October, done or not -- it is leaving before the baby shows up.
Chris Pucci
Active member
looks great! Did you use the foil stuff from lowes/home depot? You should deliver that sucker the first part of October. Like right around the fall rallye...or at the very least. You could catch a ride back with me..
I could not find the real "peel & seal" brand, so I used the non foil covered home depot 100% butyl rubber stuff. It seems to work great for sound absorbtion and resonance elimination.
I'm taking it back on oct. 16th. I have other commitments all the other weekends in October. I really did want to go to the rallye - maybe next year
