1971 Scout II - Update/Modernization Build

ss2 said:
yep!


That rotor looks way better the drilling the Chevy rotors like I did. Course I'll go to great trouble to keep dodge parts off of my rigs.......:dita:
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Yeah the conversion to fit the Scout with these rotors takes about 1 second -- nothing! My kind of work.

They clear by about 1/8" on the wheels. I don't think the old style drum brake wheels would clear at all.
 
Got to working on the tranny kickdown linkage -- I think I am going to toss it all out and get the lokar version...

There does not appear to be any keeper on the bottom of the linkage rod where it meets the tranny lever - and no provision for a keeper. So I have my doubts if it has been working correclty the last few years.
 
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I did start the truck last night -- filled the ps pump and watched the belt turn. The system seems to work. 38 years without power steering and now it has it!

I am also a few steps closer to getting the front end swapped out. I need to get some calipers but other than that I have everything lined up.

I need to take more pictures!
 
chris pucci said:
got to working on the tranny kickdown linkage -- I think I am going to toss it all out and get the lokar version...

There does not appear to be any keeper on the bottom of the linkage rod where it meets the tranny lever - and no provision for a keep. So I have my doubts if it has been working correctly the last few years.
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Those kickdown rods could have been retained in two different manners in the lever hole.

Some May have a cross-drilled hole for a cotter pin with a 5/16" flat washer for a "bearing" point. If yours doesn't have that hole, ya can easily drill it for one, use a 1/8" bit. This makes for a real sloppy fit, but as long as the kickdown is adjusted properly, the slop doesn't matter as it allows the power unit to "move" on it's mounts inna flex situation without impacting tranny operation.

The "proper" way that an un-drilled rod was retained was a "clip" that enclosed the hole portion of the lever, and then snapped onto the rod itself. However, I've never been able to locate those as replacements in the aftermarket supply chain because they are for a 5/16" rod! Any sizes smaller than 5/16" are readily available and I have several of those, commonly used on throttle linkages for carbs.

For the same thing, chrysler used a circular "spring"-type clip (not an e-clip) that was a formed wire item but those also required an engaging hole in the rod itself.

You are correct about using the lokar cable kickdown system though, it's a perfect solution and takes all the slop out of the kickdown actuator and is an outstanding upgrade when combined with the lokar throttle cable system.
 
Update pics:

got the front end pulled out and the 'new' d44 started to go in.

Out with the old.
d30.jpg


Piles of d44 parts.
d44parts.jpg


Ready for a fresh start.
noaxle.jpg


Test fitting the 'new' d44
d44.jpg
 
Got a ton done today. Got the inner knuckles welded back on - 'custom' axle shafts built - and one side completed.

Now for the pics:

measuring for the new caster angle:
d44angle.jpg


Welded back toegther:
welded.jpg


Getting ready to swap the Scout outer shafts for Chevy outer shafts:
ujoint.jpg


Scout inners shafts with Chevy outer shafts:
axleshafts.jpg


Redrilled Scout II knuckles for Chevy spindles:
redrilled.jpg


Chevy spindle and caliper bracket:
brackets.jpg


Ford hub and rotor with regualr locking hub:
hubs.jpg
 
Here are the actual build specs for my lowbrid d44 axle build:

Scout II axle housing - stock spring under axle configuration.
Cut and turned inner knuckles to 5 degrees of caster.
Scout II outer knuckles drilled for 6 bolt Chevy spindles.
6 bolt Chevy small bearing spindles ('75 1/2 ton 4x4)
Chevy 4 slot spindle nuts ('75 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4)
Chevy 1/2 ton caliper brackets ('75 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4)
Chevy calipers and pads ('75 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4)
Ford hub and rotors ('85 Ford 1/2 ton 4x4)
Ford inner and outer wheel bearings and wheel seal ('85 Ford 1/2 ton 4x4)
standard 19 spline internal locking hub (Chevy, dodge, Jeep, etc - they are all the same for 19 spline applications)
stock Scout II inner axle shaft
stock Dana 44 axle u-joint
Chevy 19 spline outer axle shaft ('75 Chevy 1/2 ton 4x4)

I wanted to build something that would drive straight, stop easy, last a long time and be easy to rebuild and repair. So I did the cut and turn and switched to easy to find/buy/repair Chevy/Ford brakes and internal locking hubs. I also eliminated the weak Scout II outer axle shaft and weaker external locking hub. I call it my lowbrid axle build, as I have never not done a spring over conversion when building an axle.
 
Impressive chris! :icon_mrgreen:

I'm surprised that since you did not do the spring-over conversion, that you didn't do a shackle reversal. Especially considering all the pavement running that truck will be doing. Or did I forget to read a post somewhere? :icon_eh: lol!


Ps: I'm taking notes on this front end build to keep in my black book of tricks. :winky:
 
chris pucci said:
got a ton done today. Got the inner knuckles welded back on - 'custom' axle shafts built - and one side completed.

Now for the pics:

measuring for the new caster angle:
d44angle.jpg


Welded back toegther:
welded.jpg


Getting ready to swap the Scout outer shafts for Chevy outer shafts:
ujoint.jpg


Scout inners shafts with Chevy outer shafts:
axleshafts.jpg


Redrilled Scout II knuckles for Chevy spindles:
redrilled.jpg


Chevy spindle and caliper bracket:
brackets.jpg


Ford hub and rotor with regualr locking hub:
hubs.jpg
Click to expand...

Chris what did you use for a template when you redrilled the knuckles? Did you bolt the spindle on using the top and bottem stud and then Mark the holes? And also, are you using the stock mc after doing the rear disk conversion?

This is a nice write up. Thanks.
 
monte lauer said:
chris what did you use for a template when you redrilled the knuckles? Did you bolt the spindle on using the top and bottem stud and then Mark the holes? And also, are you using the stock mc after doing the rear disk conversion?

This is a nice write up. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I used an extra spindle I had laying around, bolted it up using the top and bottom bolt holes, and drilled with it in place. Just picked the drill bit closest to the actual hole size without going oversized. Drilled slow with cutting fluid. Pounded in the new spindle bolts and called it good.

If people are wondering if this is safe or will last -- I drilled a Chevy knuckle for the 8-bolt Scout spindle in about 2002 when I did my first SOA job. I have since switched to Chevy 6 bolt spindles so it is effectively the same as the above knuckles. I am still running those same knuckles today under my Scout - I have honestly used them on 5 different axles. No problems - still doing just fine. And I run 36" tires and break axle shafts and hubs like they are going out of style.
 
monte lauer said:
And also, are you using the stock mc after doing the rear disk conversion?

This is a nice write up. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I 'usually' use a Chevy mc from a late '70's pickup with the larger bore cylinder, but I haven't got to that point yet.

I just got the front tires back on yesterday.
 
I got some parts in the mail yesterday... Bling!

lokar.jpg


I didn't order the throttle cable as the throttle cable in the Scout is almost brand new -- I will figure out a way to use it and not loose any of the function of the lokar kickdown cable.


Stay tuned...
 
Lokar transmission kickdown cable and bracket with Scout II throttle cable and partially fabbed bracket...

kickdown1.jpg


kickdown2.jpg


kickdown3.jpg


As you can see the lokar cable is installed just as the instructions show -- I just installed the Scout throttle cable as close to the lokar anticipated location as possible. It all works very smooth. At idle/no throttle the kickdown arm has no tension on it - as I apply throttle the kickdown cable applies at about the same rate as the throttle. I still need to test drive it and fine tune it, but I think it is almost dialed in right out of the box!
 
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