The "Fuel Tank" Thread

I agree that repairing a plastic filler neck is a poor second choice to
installing a steel filler. At this point I've ordered a repaired steel unit
from IHPA, it's due to show up sometime today.

The fact that it's been repaired makes me uneasy; evidently a new end
(where the filler cap attaches) has been welded on. When I asked if the
welds were tested to be leak tight (important in this application)
the answer was a surprised "no". After a bit of discussion I agreed to buy
either of the two samples that passed a leak test. I very quickly got a
shipping notice from UPS, so I'm hopeful.

If the replacement filler passes my own leak test (air pressure and soapy
water) all's well. If it doesn't, then I will patch and reinstall the plastic
filler while seeking a permanent repair. I believe a fabric reinforced epoxy
patch can be made to last for at least a while, since the crack is above
liquid fuel level. The fact that there seems to be a mechanical strain on
the filler makes it unlikely any adhesive patch can be long-lived.

Thanks for reading,

bob prohaska
 
The repaired filler pipe arrived before noon. It passes an immersion leak
test with no visible bubble at 10 psi, limited by my end caps. I'm putting
it back in the Scout now.

One small puzzle is how the new cap end was attached. It doesn't appear
to be welded, there's no sign of solder or adhesive. In any case, it holds
air and that's all I'm asking.

bob prohaska
 
I have a 1968 c1100 that I'm having trouble finding a fuel tank for or another fuel tank that will work . does anyone know of a fuel-cell that will fit in place of the old one
 
Peter frost said:
1967 1100b pickup 304 engine
Fuel gauge when tank is full registers just over 1/2 full on the gauge.
Solution?
Click to expand...

First thing I'd do is check the voltage regulator for the gauges. IIRC it's
a little tricky: It's a bimetallic oscillator that chops the car's 12 volt
(nominal) supply to (I think) 5 volts RMS. The frequency was rather low,
a few Hz, which means you have to measure the on/off times and do a
little math. The gas and oil pressure gauges have a very slow response
and so filter out the chopping.

If the oil pressure reads mid-scale when cold at fast idle it's unlikely
the regulator is the problem, it might pay to look at the sender in that
case.

Good luck, hope this helps

bob prohaska
 
Peter frost said:
1967 1100b pickup 304 engine
Fuel gauge when tank is full registers just over 1/2 full on the gauge.
Solution?
Click to expand...

IIRC the sender should read 0 ohms when full and 70 or 90 when empty. Read the sender from ground to the sender wire with your ohm meter. This should be the first thing to be the first thing to check. If you get a higher resistance to ground I suspect the sender.
The resistance values are from memory so until I verify them just use them as a reference.

If you ground the sender wire from the gauge, you should see a full scale reading or more. Only ground it for a short time with the ignition on for the test.
 
What does the liquid/vapor separator sometimes called a condenser "thingy" attach to?

The plastic manifold the mounts near the filler pipe. The fuel tank vent/return lines go to it; the exit is connected to the carbon canister.

My Scout II does not have one and I plan to fabricate one from copper pipe. I don't see any mount points in my Scout; does it mount with the filler pipe?
 
It separates liquid from vapor. The liquid returns to the tank and vapor is absorbed by the charcoal canister under the hood. When the engine is running, vapors are drawn out to be burned.
 
IHCScout78 said:
What does the liquid/vapor separator sometimes called a condenser "thingy" attach to?

The plastic manifold the mounts near the filler pipe. The fuel tank vent/return lines go to it; the exit is connected to the carbon canister.

My Scout II does not have one and I plan to fabricate one from copper pipe. I don't see any mount points in my Scout; does it mount with the filler pipe?
Click to expand...
The canister on my 77 mounts behind the access plate, driver's side, rear, near spare tire. Mine is mounted with 2 sheet metal screws slightly to the right of the top and bottom access plate attaching screws. If you're going to fab one, it'll have to be sized to be inserted through the access.
 
I believe the one in the back is actually an expansion tank, if you have a full tank and it gets hot out, it allows a little extra room for the gas in the tank to expand. What they typically do is leak from the hose connections, or the seams split like mine did. Mine was a minor leak, but very annoying, as it dripped down onto the tailpipe. I fixed the plastic one in my 75 Scout with p-tex - the stuff used to repair the bottom of skis. Just make sure to remove and fully empty and air out the tank, you drip the stuff on kind of like melted candle wax.
 
Thanks Codeman; that is the answer I was looking for. My liquid vapor separator is long gone and there may have been screw holes, but the are now covered with bed liner...
 
Just dug this up.
IMG_0851.JPG
 
Starting my 79 Scout II project. Doesn't run and has been sitting at least 5 years, probably more like 10 years. Drained oil and no evidence of metal pieces after screening oil with a magnet. Gas tank sounds empty but probably had gas in it and all evaporated. What's the best way to clean out any old gas residue? Soak with ??? Kerosene? Gas? B-12 Chemtool? How long to let that sit before draining? Thanks in advance for any help !
 
LanceCason said:
Starting my 79 Scout II project. Doesn't run and has been sitting at least 5 years, probably more like 10 years. Drained oil and no evidence of metal pieces after screening oil with a magnet. Gas tank sounds empty but probably had gas in it and all evaporated. What's the best way to clean out any old gas residue? Soak with ??? Kerosene? Gas? B-12 Chemtool? How long to let that sit before draining? Thanks in advance for any help !
Click to expand...

You don't say whether the Scout is subject to emissions compliance, that will affect what's useful/necessary.

I'd start by leak checking. No need to clean a tank that leaks...
Residue that stays stuck is harmless, maybe add a throwaway inline filter to see how much cruft collects.

Unfortunately the only way to find out what you've really got is to take the tank out of the vehicle and
look inside through the gauge port. Having gone that far, the temptation to put in a larger tank will become
considerable if you're building a road-going machine.

I've used hot Pine-Sol original formula to clean carb parts with decent success. The mix has to be hot
(too hot to comfortably touch) and agitation would help greatly. I think the carb parts were clean within
half an hour or so. Hot Pine-Sol definitely etches brass and zinc, I don't think it'll harm steel.

Ethylene glycol antifreeze is a potent but slow-acting solvent, it might work similarly without
strong etching effect (nor stench!) On the plus side, time soaking will let you explore other problems.
You'd probably want to heat and agitate if you can.

Hope this helps,

bob prohaska
 
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