Proper Clutch Identification

Well:

attached are pix of the sleeve & T/O bearing.

The two attached pix show the clutch sleeve in fully depressed view and fully released. The yellow mark shows how long the “snout” is when clutch peddle is fully depressed. Since the snout is 3.5 inches, I marked (blue mark) where it is when clutch is fully pressed in. Also, the mark in red shows the amount of travel (clutch released/clutch fully depressed) It’s about ½ travel. (Am I making sense?) The other pix shows sleeve fully released and where the snout would measure to (blue).

I doubt that the sleeve will fall off (there’s at least 1.5 inches of sleeve on the snout when fully depressed), and as I mentioned before, the noise (rattle) was something I would hear with the 3 speed. I just never paid it any attention. Based on previous comments, I thought that there might be only about ½ inch or less of sleeve to play with. So, I am going to leave it alone. Unless it is a safety issue that I need to address.

Also, if you look at the clutch fork “tangs” (where the fork links to sleeve), they seem in very good shape. Almost not wear. I will let it go.

(that, and I‘m getting too old to be doing this kind of stuff! HAH!)
 

Attachments

  • InkedSleeve fully released.jpg
    InkedSleeve fully released.jpg
    276.9 KB · Views: 653
  • InkedClutch Sleeve full depressed showing 3.5 inches.jpg
    InkedClutch Sleeve full depressed showing 3.5 inches.jpg
    345.3 KB · Views: 494
  • Sleeve & TO bearing.jpg
    Sleeve & TO bearing.jpg
    37.3 KB · Views: 610
Richard
Did you ever find the problem? I'm having the same problem myself? From your last picture I have the exact same set-up. What vehicle is that out of? What style clutch is yours?
 
Hi there. I have a 1977 SII with a 196 4cyl. I changed from a 3 sp stick/chain transfer case to the T-19 and D20 transfer case.

the problem was/is that the snout the sleeve/T-O bearing ride on is a bit short, so you will get a bit of "rattle" when depressing the clutch pedal. Other than that, it works just fine.
 
This might be a bit off subject, I think:

trying to determine how to "adjust" the clutch pedal play. I have about an inch and a half of play on my clutch pedal (clutch pedal fully free and I can wiggle it up and down about that much). I see both ends of the clutch rod where the threads are but didn't want to mess with it until I got some feedback.

Clutch engages just fine, when pedal is fully to the floor, clutch engages about half way up from from fully depressed to fully free (along with the 1 1/2 of play). Was wondering of this is normal, or not.

Thanks,
 
This might be a bit off subject, I think:

trying to determine how to "adjust" the clutch pedal play. I have about an inch and a half of play on my clutch pedal (clutch pedal fully free and I can wiggle it up and down about that much). I see both ends of the clutch rod where the threads are but didn't want to mess with it until I got some feedback.

Clutch engages just fine, when pedal is fully to the floor, clutch engages about half way up from from fully depressed to fully free (along with the 1 1/2 of play). Was wondering of this is normal, or not.

Thanks,
Normal end play on the clutch pedal is 1/2" +_ 1/8"
Excess end play is probably worn linkage and/or the throw out bearing collar.
The ideal time to replace the collar is with the clutch job.
For now, if the ears are still good on your existing collar, you might be able to turn the connecting rod with acts like a turnbuckle, (loosen jamb nuts first) then take out some play.
Some end play is nessesary so as not to wear out the bearing by riding it with linkage that is too tight, or somebodies foot.
As long as you have the clutch inspection cover off, shoot some grease in the TO bearing zerk fitting.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top