Dana/Spicer Transfer Case Guapo

X2.

Stretch or replace the spring.

Take a grinder to the shift rail to make the ball sit a little harder for it to slip out.
 
Dana 18 rebuild questions: I have a '61 s80 with 152ci, Dana t90 mated to the spicer/Dana t18 transfer case. I'm in the middle of rebuilding the transfer case, using the novak master rebuild kit.

1. I took the main shaft and clutch shaft to a machine shop to replace the bronze bushing. The new fit feels too tight. The machinist said it fits the spec of .0627. Can I let this go and assume the tightness will wear the bushing down quickly? Or should it move freely at this spec?

2. I'm also having trouble getting the shaft end play right. Before I put the front bearing cap on, the shaft is plenty loose. After I put the front cap on, I lose all end play and don't have enough play to bother with putting the rear cap on with the shims. I think part of my problem May be that the clutch shaft is not fully entering the main shaft (because of problem noted above) and is taking up all the end play when I replace the front cap. (it's hard to visualize unless you've worked on one of these). The instructions are fairly obvious and I'm certain I have the bearings, bushing, snap ring, etc installed correctly. Am I missing something in this process?
 
Thought I would answer my own question above for others doing the xfer case rebuild. The clutch shaft bushing was too tight and caused any end play to be pushed to the rear when reinstalling the front cap. Thus, there was no end play at the rear cap to adjust. I bought a 1-1/8 inch brake cylinder hone from snapon.com and honed the clutch shaft bushing until the clutch shaft turned free inside the output shaft. Then I followed the end play adjustment instructions in the novak kit and it worked out well. The intermediate shaft reinstall was straight forward. I'll let you know how it all works when I get the tranny and transfer case intalled on the Scout.
 
Thank you for the post Jeff. I had the same problem years ago converting my d20 to a d18; the bushing needed reamed.

Bushings should always be reamed, never honed as the grit can imbed in the bronze. In my case I used a knife similar to using a bearing scraper. The machinist sure could have worked with you better, but you got it figured out.
 
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I have a 72 Scout II, 345 with Dana 20 transfer case. The issue I am having is 2h. The transfer case works perfect in 4l and 4h, neutral is good as well. But 2h is actually 2l. While in 2h I was geared as though in 4l so I jacked up the rig and checked all. 4l and 4h turns all 4's but 2h turns rear but in low range. Any suggestions? The previous owner had the tc rebuilt but my guess, something was done wrong.
 
Is this a twin stick conversion? I don't see any way that 2low is possible with a single stick case. There are two shifter rails in the case. One is for hi/low range and the other engages or disengages the front axle. On a single stick case as most d20's are, the rails are linked together. Low range 4x4 sees the shifter pushed forward which in turn forces both rails rearward. For 2low, one of the rails would need to be significantly further forward out of the case than the other.
 
It is a single stick version. This is my concern. There shouldn't be a possible option to have the low rail in position when the 2/4 rail is in 2 wheel. I am wondering if the rails are switched or are they only able to fit one way. Not sure if a possible sticking rail May be a cause. The system is simple, one forward, one back = 2h, both forward = 4h, both rails back = 4l but no being able to get a 2h is perplexing me.

Thanks for any help
 
So are you able to achieve more ground speed in 4hi than you can in 2hi? What about the possibility of some rotational issue within your rear diff or rear brake drums creating a drag?
 
I have a question on venting a Dana 20 tc.

When I did the rebuild on the tf 727/407 I added the standard hose barbs for the vents in the case and housing.

Do you use the same on the tc? Do you run three separate lines up into the engine compartment, or is it ok to use a tee on the two from the transmission.

Finally what have others used for catch cans and do you run the tc and transmissions into the same catch can.

Thanks
 
The trans lines can be t'd to one catch, but I recommend keeping the t-case vent separate, just in the unlikely, yet possible event of fluid cross-mojonation. Head for your local pick and pull and look for plastic clutch slave and brake master reservoirs that you can fabbykate on to orient them upside down on the firewall.
 
I am starting the process of converting my '72 Scout II with a 304 to a sbc linked to a 704r non electronic (I think unless someone has a better idea?)...

Is there an adaptor to hook up a GM 704r to the Scout II Dana 20? I haven't found on at aa. If not is it better to rebuild the Dana 20 with a 6 spline input vs the 23 spline that is currently in it or am I better off replacing the tc altogether? If so is it east to change over to the Jeep Dana 300?

Thanks in advance!!
Art
 
Yes there is an adapter between the 700r4 to the stock Scout Dana 20 transfer casr. There was a memeber here in the forum that was selling that adapter(as used) within the last year. Not sure if he sold it or not.

I don't remember who actually made that adapter. You can give the guys a call up at IH Parts America to find out. Click on the store link up at the top of the page which will take you to the online store. If the part is not listed on the web site, then call them up. Not everything they sell is listed
 
arthrsanc said:
I am starting the process of converting my '72 Scout II with a 304 to a sbc linked to a 704r non electronic (I think unless someone has a better idea?)...

Is there an adaptor to hook up a GM 704r to the Scout II Dana 20? I haven't found on at aa. If not is it better to rebuild the Dana 20 with a 6 spline input vs the 23 spline that is currently in it or am I better off replacing the tc altogether? If so is it east to change over to the Jeep Dana 300?

Thanks in advance!!
Art
Click to expand...

I assume you are looking for this adapter?

700r4 to Dana 20/300 transfer case - International Scout parts
 
This looks like the place for Dana 300 questions. Rebuilding a Dana 300 out of an 80 diesel for my 75 Scout II with a 258. Got the d300 all torn down and found marks on the front output shaft's rear cover from the bearings race spinning. Measured the endplay before tearing it down, and it was too small at .0005. Believe it should be from .002-.005 - could feel no fore aft movement at all. The literature I have says the race should be a slip fit to light press fit into the case. I can spin it freely and even rock it a tad in the case bore. How bad is this? Can I set up the end play with new bearings and then use green non hardening permatex or loctite retaining compound 35 to lock the race back in place?, get the case sleeved and bored? Locate a new case? Or am I just freaking and this is normal- kind of doubt it.
 

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I would peen it and then use sleeve retaining loctite upon final assembly. After that I wouldn't lose any sleep over it.
 
Thanks Jeff, this is my first transfer case rebuild, so am a little nervous here. Did some research and it looks like loctite 640 sleeve and bearing retainer is the ticket. Went out and picked up a 20 ton press at h.f. On black Friday which made pressing off the bearings during disassembly a piece of cake.
 
Transfer case miesters, this is a Dana 300 question. Is this normal wear on the splined drive gear on the rear output shaft? This would be the front half of the gear that sees the most use - when transfer case is in 2-hi and it's coupled to the bull gear.
 

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I would say that is normal wear. Although not worn out that part is well worn. You May want to replace that with a new or good used one if you have the chance.
 
Ok, thanks. Kind of what I figured, the clutch collar fits tighter on the gear when turned around, so it's probably pretty well worn in as well. May end up upgrading to one of the beefier rear output shaft kits from jb or advance adaptors. Don't like the tera flex setup because it's not compatible with the old analog speedometer.
 
hondo said:
ok, thanks. Kind of what I figured, the clutch collar fits tighter on the gear when turned around, so it's probably pretty well worn in as well. May end up upgrading to one of the beefier rear output shaft kits from jb or advance adaptors. Don't like the tera flex setup because it's not compatible with the old analog speedometer.
Click to expand...

We can source a lot of the parts for the Dana 300 including the clutch collar. If you decide to go with a heavy duty output from advance adapters let us know as we are an aa dealer.
 
Anybody know how to get this type of retaining ring on? Know what I want, old mechanic down the street used to have a pair of reverse acting duckbill pliers that were knurled on the out side of the jaws for removing lifters. Its on an aa d300 heavy duty output shaft.
 

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Never mind, turned a set of straight snap ring tips around and took a dremel to the ends to make some birfield clip tips. Done deal.
 

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Quick d300 assembly question, everything I've read says to use "grease" on all friction surfaces during assembly. Pretty broad term there. Do I need some heavy type bearing grease, or will the red line synthetic engine assembly lube I'm planning to use be ok? Talking mainly splines, and where the gears spin on the input/output shafts.
 
Light grease is fine. I personally use gear oil on all my bearings and other internal parts when assembling a transfer case. Basically whatever lube I plan on running will be used on assembly.
 
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