Throttle Valve Control Rod

Easy removal, though one disconnection issue.

Image 3 and image 4 show the rod in question. I see no clip holding it into place. If there is really one missing, what do I "shop" for?

Error in removal was that I didn't disconnect the shift linkage, and the shift tab stayed in place and the smooth notched portion (image 6) is now no longer articulating with the spring loaded ball bearing as seen in image 5.

So for problem 2, is the easiest solution to remove that mechanism from the tranny, including the rod, and reassembling on the bench, then reinstalling? If so, where is the rod to be disconnected-farthest end to the rear? How does the end of that rod interact-just slotted/notched/geared/push or is it actually connected?

So close...
 

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It looks like the vb dropped right out leaving the rooster comb behind. That's not normally how they come out, but it explains a lot in your case. The good news is your engagement tang probably doesn't need to be bent at all. There is a land and groove cut into the throttle valve lever as seen in pics three and five. There is supposed to be a cir-clip in that groove which rests against a flat washer on the outside of the vb. Either the cir-clip broke and fell down harmlessly into your pan, or it was omitted the last time this trans was serviced. Either way, without that clip in place, the rooster comb is free to slide up, thus allowing the engagement tang to get away from the manual valve. You need a cir-clip very similar, if not identical to the one that is keeping your rooster comb attached to the park pawl rod.
First step now is to get the park pawl rod and attached rooster comb out of the trans. It shouldn't be necessary to separate the two pieces. The end of the pp rod that you can't see has kind of a press fit keeper on it that is meant to spring into any one of the notched cutouts on the governor wheel. There is a spring loaded lever on a pivot pin inside the trans case that also helps retain the pp rod in place once you've shifted into park. Often times, the pp rod can be slid out with little resistance when the governor is aligned just right. The governor will rotate along with the drive shaft. It isn't necessary to make a full revolution, just rock it back and forth while tugging on the rod and it should come free. If not, you can take a large, flat screwdriver and press the spring loaded lever holding it up into the case and out of the way of the pp rod. This is difficult to explain and my words probably lack the necessary clarity, but I'm trying. It takes some finagling, but you'll get it. Just trust me, when the rooster comb is retained to the vb as it should be, you don't want to have to try and finesse the cir-clip that retains the pp rod to the rooster comb from under the rig. Its so much easier to make that connection on the workbench and then stuff everything as a cohesive unit back into the trans.
Now to the detent ball. I'm glad you didn't lose it. The spring that loads it can shoot that ball clear across your gee-rodge and into your neighbor's yard if you aren't very careful. It sucks when that happens. So there's a couple methods you can use to put that rooster comb and detent ball back into place. You need to be able to force that spring and ball far enough into the hole to clear the rooster comb, but whatever you're using to hold the ball must be strong enough to hold it and also slender enough to clear the leading edges of the rooster comb. I know that doesn't make any sense, but bear with me. I've used a metal gap feeler gauge of just the right thickness to hold the ball and spring up in the hole as I slide the rooster comb into position. Another method is to use a small diameter peg just long enough to hold the ball and spring in place, but not so big that the rc can't slide down far enough to take over the duty of holding the ball and spring. It sounds more complex and difficult than it actually is. If you look things over carefully and do some test fitting, I'm sure the light bulb will come on in your head. Most folks who are messing around with transmission parts at least have some service literature on hand with step by step and pictures to refer to, but I can understand if you don't have that at your disposal.
 
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I'm not completely clear on where the missing cir-clip and washer are supposed to mount. Do you know of a diagram (or better yet photo) for that?

However, I do understand the ball/rooster comb deal.
 
Yep. That's a perfect look. You can see the rooster comb engagement tang nestled correctly in the notch of the manual valve. When you reassemble yours, you'll want to make sure that the tang cannot hop up out of that notch. If it hops out, you'll need to carefully bend it down just a hair. Then cycle the rooster comb by hand to see that the manual valve does slide in and out of its bore as it should. There should be a small rubber seal inside the bore of the rooster comb, sitting directly underneath the flat washer and cir-clip. Post a pic of your rooster comb with the bore side up if you aren't sure what the seal should look like.

Another training tip...when you have everything put together correctly and you're ready to install the vb back into the trans, have the manual valve shifted into park, which is the largest detent notch on the rooster comb. That way when you exert some pushing force against the assembly trying to send the pp rod home, the only relief will come when the rod actually does ratchet or click into place. Rocking the drive shaft to get maximum clearance just as you did during rod removal will be helpful.
 
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Well. Disappointment again.

Reassembled. Everything looked good before the pan was put back on. Pan on. Proper fluid level. Nothing.

More testing confirmed that cannot manually turn back tires while in park but can in everything else.

Also, disconnected tranny cooler line. It was essentially dry. Thus, no fluid is circulating.

Local tranny business says that indicates something internal not working properly and will need a rebuild.

Before I finally bite the bullet, is there something else that I May be overlooking, or is the lack of fluid in the cooler line enough to say there is a pump or other internal problem?
 
If you're not getting any fluid to come out of an open cooling line with the engine running and trans in neutral, along with no motion, I'd have to concur that hydraulic fluid pressure is not building. I'm sorry you're having so much trouble. Its service time.
 
Too bad. I been following this in hopes that it was an easy fix. At least it seems to have been a good learning experience. I'm currently in the middle of a tear down of my 727 auto. Mine had absolutely no forward gears what so ever. Even though reverse worked, I'm not about to drive around town backwards. The guts of my tf are currently spread out on my bench with some burnt non existent front clutches along with the lingering aroma of burnt fluid. I currently have a line on a replacement complete unit that just might get me on the road sooner. I'll find out more tomorrow.
 
if you're not getting any fluid to come out of an open cooling line with the engine running and trans in neutral, along with no motion, I'd have to concur that hydraulic fluid pressure is not building. I'm sorry you're having so much trouble. Its service time.

Is there something specific about neutral and fluid flow?
 
Sorry gary. This one slipped through the cracks. The short answer is no. My previous remark was misleading, although in your case I think I'd still be checking for fluid flow in both p and n just to say that I did it. When all is as it should be, the fluid pump is circulating atf through the system any time the engine is running, regardless of gear selector position. However, for a tf 727 with unmodified valve body, the fluid level inside the torque converter drains back into the fluid pan during engine idle in park. The thinking behind that was to reduce engine burden. That's why the level should only be checked in neutral, as the converter is being filled instead of drained in that spot, and you will get a true level on the dipstick.
 
Thanks. Did check in both p and n. No difference in level and still no luck.

Tranny being dropped next week.

More to come...
 
Alrighty then. Best hunch at this point based on what's been revealed thus far is the converter was not fully seated during a previous installation attempt, thus damaging the alignment tabs on the pump drive gear. That May be all that is wrong with the unit, but there could just as easily be additional issues. Variables suck. Hopefully whomever does the work will not only be thorough in their inspection, but also fair and judicious about only replacing items that truly need it. Good luck.
 
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