34 Hot Rod Pickup

So the alt looked like a pinwheel sticking out of the side. I wanted something cool for the hotrod and after chatting with several folks this is what I came up with. Let the conversation begain, bare in mind there is a kit for a Ford 9", plus if you look close you see a harvester pully is very close to bolt on just had to inlarge the mount holes:thumbsup:
 

Attachments

  • hotrod 003.jpg
    hotrod 003.jpg
    61.3 KB · Views: 1,107
The 8.8 uses a flange mount so the pulley will be between the flanges. Hope this make sense, I will be dropping off the shaft for sizing and hopefully installing latter next week.
 

Attachments

  • hotrod 005.jpg
    hotrod 005.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 1,299
You've gotta tell us how that works. I think that is a great solution to this the pin wheel deal. I've always wanted to try it just never had the oppertunity ti rig it up on a new or old build.
 
That is not going to spin the alternator fast enough to do much charging unless you're doing 50+. Unless you've got 5:77 gears in that dif.

It's a killer combo if you plan to use an electric fan. If it's a 1 wire even worse due to the voltage drop in the long wire to the fuse block. Is the battery under the seat in that truck?

And how are you going to tension the fan belts?
 
Look in this picture and you can see the tension bracket. As far as charging this is a hotrod, led lights, no heater, no a/c, and I will be using a yellow top optima undaer the passenger seat. I will also play with pulley size if there is a big issue.
 

Attachments

  • hotrod 004.jpg
    hotrod 004.jpg
    65.4 KB · Views: 1,013
that is not going to spin the alternator fast enough to do much charging unless you're doing 50+. Unless you've got 5:77 gears in that dif.

It's a killer combo if you plan to use an electric fan. If it's a 1 wire even worse due to the voltage drop in the long wire to the fuse block. Is the battery under the seat in that truck?

And how are you going to tension the fan belts?

Just looking at the set up and chatting with folks in the know I call bs. If your truck idles at 800rpms then the alt will charge at idle or just off idle, that said the drive shaft will be spinning at the same speed as the motor in one to one (no od) therefore any time I am driving in third gear the alt will be above the idle speed, as I said before this is not rocket science and has been done many times in the past, in fact you can buy a kit for a nine inch Ford diff. So that said there will be very little draw on a deep cycle optima battery, unlike my SSII no welder, no winches, no heater or ac only an ign system and cooling fans when the truck needs them.

Ok here's a shot with the belt on all tensioned up. You can also see the tensioning adjuster in this picture.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0702.jpg
    IMG_0702.jpg
    42.8 KB · Views: 963
This is all about kool factor, here I got the transmission cooler installed and plumbed. This will keep the transmission heat from the radiator and before everyone chimes in no trailer, the truck will weigh very little so I don't think heat will be an issue. In fact this is the biggest in line cooler I could find.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0700.jpg
    IMG_0700.jpg
    48.3 KB · Views: 980
Here's a shot of the plumbing, I spent my life as an air o plane mechanic so steel braided hoses are second nature. This should be very sanitary and always look cool when someone look at the underside (with a mirror) the truck will only be a couple inches off the ground. And as a side note the exhaust will be header/side pipes and will be on the outside of the frame.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0701.jpg
    IMG_0701.jpg
    43.4 KB · Views: 952
Here's a shot of the locar kick down cable, this works great with the 727. In fact I like it better than the factory setup. As far as the transmission when I had the transmission rebuilt, I took the case had it glass bleed blasted then clear powder coated. After that I had my transmission guy rebuild it with a shift kit and deep sump chrome pan.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0703.jpg
    IMG_0703.jpg
    73.6 KB · Views: 963
Well with a light load it will probably be ok. There is a really small pulley that used on a starter/generator that will give about 2x the rpm's and will charge better.

index.php


I'd guess that at freeway speeds you'll see 2000 rpm on the shaft with a 7" pulley driving a 3.5" pulley on the alternator you'll see 4000 rpm on the alternator. That will give 50 amps on a 62 amp alternator. That will work.
 
Awesome!!!

I am loving the one of a kind touches you are doing on this build!

As far as the tensioning, I thought I saw a power steering pump bracket in the piles of chrome parts. That would allow a place to tension the water pump belt.

Or- for the vintage look you could go with a gutted non functioning generator that had the tensioner on it, but only served as an arbor. Im building a traditional inspired kb hot-rod
now and might very well consider the alt on the rear axle/ gen on the engine.

You are certainly figuring things out on your own, but some grain o salt input comes with the territory.

I wont likely make it top the rmihr before I swap a cummins into my travelette. The 11 mpg on the tow rig might just be a deal breaker at this point. Not sure where I could get a trailer long enough to hall them all in a single trip :gringrin:
 
well with a light load it will probably be ok. There is a really small pulley that used on a starter/generator that will give about 2x the rpm's and will charge better.

index.php


I'd guess that at freeway speeds you'll see 2000 rpm on the shaft with a 7" pulley driving a 3.5" pulley on the alternator you'll see 4000 rpm on the alternator. That will give 50 amps on a 62 amp alternator. That will work.

I am glad I have your approvel, guess I will continue with my hotrod. Thank you for giving me the go ahead:dita:
 
Last edited:
Here's how I ran the wire from the alt. Back to the battery. This looks very clean and also will protect the wiring.
 

Attachments

  • hotrod 015.jpg
    hotrod 015.jpg
    76.9 KB · Views: 1,116
Also got the fuel line to carb taken care of, tonight I will mount the fuel pump and finish the line. But you can see the conduit in the frame is a nice touch.
 

Attachments

  • hotrod 017.jpg
    hotrod 017.jpg
    48.5 KB · Views: 976
Man, I bet you were about to abandon the entire mission if that alt wouldnt charge, having a custom 1.25" alt pulley would have been way more than the project was worth...

Keep up the great work man. Hats off to ya!

Just in case I never see this beauty in person, can I request a you-tube vid of this thing leaving the line at max rpm?

I have got to hear that engine. :icon_cool:
 
Well today I got the fuel pump mounted and plumbed up. I used dash 6 hoses, the inlet from the tank will be dash 8 to insure there is sufficient fuel to feed the beast.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0719.jpg
    IMG_0719.jpg
    57.1 KB · Views: 1,044
So I have been running all the brake flex lines here's a look.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0720.jpg
    IMG_0720.jpg
    56.3 KB · Views: 999
For those of you who are following this build here's a little incite on brake plumbing. Coincidentally this is the way I have my SSII is set up also. Plumb the front brakes directly from the master cylinder and the use an adjustable proportioning valve to the rear brakes. Then when you set up the brakes adjust the valve so that the rear brakes lock up well after the front ones do. Here a picture of the valve mounted on my truck, you will see the conduit that will be used for wiring just above the valve.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0717.jpg
    IMG_0717.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 941
As far as the belt for the water pump goes, I spoke with Jeff today, the plane it to walk a belt on between the crank and water pump. The truck will have an electric fans, and no other accessorys so this should be fine. If I need to I will take a pulley loose, and work the belt on this way
 
Back
Top