Voltage Regulator - 1961 IH Scout 80

[Jazman1966]

Bear with me as I am a novice and am teaching myself as I go.

I bought a 1961 IH Scout 80 152 ci engine. Long term
restore project. And weekend boy Scout camp 4x4.

As any project goes this one has been typical.
Touted as "running" I did indeed drive it home only to find
on problem after another (typical I know) since have corrected
fuel pump/carb issues and replaced alternator when realized battery was not charging. Negelected to replace voltage reg with alternator so once again I wait to drive my project. I any event to the point.

The voltage regulator was obviously not stock. After researching found it was aftermarket vr supplied by napa/echlin and is a vr 138. I found nos vr138 on ebay but the vr in the Scout has a couple "pieces" one locks to be simply a ground as it does nothing but atatches to a bracket and bolts to body. The other side has a "silver box" only markings say delco remy (the starter and alternator people)
with badly corroded male tab wire connectors.
I can find not other identifying marks and have no idea what it even is. I have attached photos of original install and close ups of the piece removed. Can anyone tell me what it is and if I actually need it to hook up vr and drive. Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

[FDChappie]

The first item is a common regulator and the second looks like a horn relay. Since the alternator was not a stock item for this truck, you might as well change to the more common and simpler delco 10si that's found in zillions of vehicles since 1972 or so. It has an internal regulator, so a bunch of wiring and the box on the firewall can be removed.

I think the 10si will bolt directly into the bracket you have now. I'll be making this change on of my trucks if/when the alternator their now fails.

 

[Scoutboy74]

Since you've already invested in an alternator, you May want to just buy a new external regulator to go along with it, unless an exchange and upgrade to a different, internally regulated unit as chappie suggested is a more attractive and/or practical option for you. The other item is as chappie said, a horn relay.

 

[Greg R]

There where two voltage regulator setups for early scouts depending on whether they had an indicator light or an ammeter. Terminal 2 was for the field relay, and either the ignition switch on an ammeter equipped rig latched it, or on the indicator lamp system the alternator latched it when sufficient voltage/speed was reached. The main difference in the regulators was the voltage for latching the field relay, and the wiring to them. From the outside they had the same footprint and numbered connector. Your present regulator looks pretty close to stock except for the connectors. Regulators by themselves are delicate to adjust and it is not safe to mess with. I've had not a good experience with napa mechanical regulators, and the better ones where over $80. I have found a wells made electronic regulator at carquest for $18 and it has been spot on for the last 8 or so years. It was literally a plug and play. With out the factory plug in, I would take great pains to verify that the wiring is correct and the connectors go to the proper terminals. You will definetly need a schematic. Whether you go stock or upgrade, you will need a schematic to do it right without frying something. For the future, when rejuvinating old electrical systems like these, an automotive electric shop can be your best ally.

if I actually need it to hook up vr and drive.

Unregulated electrical power can definetly fry all sorts of things besides batteries and ignition systems.

 

[Jazman1966]

Gentlemen,

thank you all for your replies...I found a nos match to the regulator and bought it for $25 bucks. With alternator at $80 I want to try and give it a go before surrendering to the 10si (which looks likely ) I d/l the electrical schematic from the sticky forum and started tracing wires. Best I can tell I have a bad ground and the sequence on the existing regulator was wrong. Not sure how vehical was actually running but know for sure why it is not charging. Also the wiring is definately shadetree mechanic since all the wires and connectors were red (including grounds) since it's only 4 wires and I have wires and connectors I'm going to make some new wires and give it a go. If I can't get it, I will surrender to the 10si. Anyone recommend the best place to get a 10si?

Thanks again for all your help!

 

[Greg R]

Way to go!! That's how we learn this stuff.

Btw, most IH's I've worked on used the same color for all the wiring. You depended on number codes printed near the ends of the circuits. After the numbers were gone, it was continuity checks with a road map(schematic).

 

[FDChappie]

The 10si's are common as dirt. My last one cost $35 for a rebuilt one at o'reilly auto parts. The only real difference in them is that there are 32 and 65 amp versions and the clocking on the back half of the case which controls which way the connectors stick out. You can easily reclock to fit your application by removing the 4 bolts and turning the case.

 

[Jazman1966]

Update!

Gentleman, thanks for the help and encouragement. I believe she lives! Had to make 2 new wires and take the dash apart to trace out the last connection which due to some aftermarket gauges which were installed did not match the schematics exactly, but I figured it out. Battery shows 12.6 off and 12.85 steady while running. I thought I should see a jump when I reved to 2000 (from other literature) but it held steady. A charge is a charge right? When I have issues again I will definately go with the 10si. Thanks again for your help!!! Now to activate the insureance and drive it til something else breaks! Cheers!

(and yes...a great learning experience!)

 

[FDChappie]

That voltage is rather low. 13.5 to 14 would be about normal. Perhaps you might want to check that the voltage sensing wire goes to the fuse block. If so perhaps the voltage could be adjusted up a bit.