I been reading and searching but no luck? I got myself a timing light and I going to check the timing of the motor. The motor is hard to get started when its been sitting a couple days and real hard if its cold outside. Motor; 345/gb/2210c carb, specs. Do I set the crank to 10 degrees? Seems I read that some where? I'm hoping timing will help it start easier. Are there any post showing how-to do all of this already? Any suggestion on why it May be hard to start? Everything is new under the hood?
TIMING MARK?
- Thread starter superc_1
- Start date
kyleandhisIH
Member
Forget about setting the crank position, you don't even need to worry about it as long as you leave the distributor down in its hole. You need to time it by ear to get the feel of where it needs to go.
I do it with a light just so I can see how much I'm moving it at a time, but I highly recommend "power timing" it per mm's post, but before you try to figure out where it wants to be, get your ears used to where it does not wanna be. I didn't figure out what "smooth" was until I got to hear what rough was like. And I'm fairly sure the worst you can do is kill the engine, depending on how much it likes your methods. It's in no way an "exact" method but you can definitely tell when that one degree of movement enhances drivability. Then the number matters, because that number should be awfully close to the one it "needs." then it's a matter of moving one degree this direction, or that direction, and seeing if you notice any performance gains
of course, you can go the other route - leave the clamp way loose, and have "lateral g-force advance." left turns retard the timing, right turns advance it!
Then the rest is up to your carburetor, which you must re-tune after playing with timing. There are lots of threads here that demonstrate what to do as far as ensuring a stable setup. And while I'm not saying it's impossible, it is difficult to set up the 2210 to cold-start correctly. I have both learned from and posted in this thread That covers lots of details about these carburetors that must be confirmed/played with by your end, and more often than not, and adjustment you make while "hot" ends up affecting cold start, and vice-versa... This is why I gave up on the 2210! It takes a lot of patience, a lot of driving, and more than a few days worth of "this just isn't right."
good luck in figuring out where your spark needs to be.
I do it with a light just so I can see how much I'm moving it at a time, but I highly recommend "power timing" it per mm's post, but before you try to figure out where it wants to be, get your ears used to where it does not wanna be. I didn't figure out what "smooth" was until I got to hear what rough was like. And I'm fairly sure the worst you can do is kill the engine, depending on how much it likes your methods. It's in no way an "exact" method but you can definitely tell when that one degree of movement enhances drivability. Then the number matters, because that number should be awfully close to the one it "needs." then it's a matter of moving one degree this direction, or that direction, and seeing if you notice any performance gains
of course, you can go the other route - leave the clamp way loose, and have "lateral g-force advance." left turns retard the timing, right turns advance it!
Then the rest is up to your carburetor, which you must re-tune after playing with timing. There are lots of threads here that demonstrate what to do as far as ensuring a stable setup. And while I'm not saying it's impossible, it is difficult to set up the 2210 to cold-start correctly. I have both learned from and posted in this thread That covers lots of details about these carburetors that must be confirmed/played with by your end, and more often than not, and adjustment you make while "hot" ends up affecting cold start, and vice-versa... This is why I gave up on the 2210! It takes a lot of patience, a lot of driving, and more than a few days worth of "this just isn't right."
good luck in figuring out where your spark needs to be.
Scoutboy74
Moderator
Kyle's advice is spot on. The mm power timing thread is well worth reading. The factory service manuals spec'd 0 degrees btdc as the base timing for all IH sv8 engines across the board. It's a well known fact that these engines in light line applications often run poorly at this setting and therefore benefit greatly from advancing that factor a smidge. There is no set amount that applies for ll vehicles across the board. There are too many variables that affect optimum performance in any given engine, such as altitude, condition of ignition components etc. For this reason, it is incumbent upon the owner to experiment with each vehicle separately in order to find that individual engine's sweet spot. What makes one happy in erie, pa May not necessarily make another happy just down the block and most likely will not apply to one in denver, co. 10 degrees of advance is a good starting point and then follow the pt procedure from there.