The Ultimate IH Fourbanger

I finaly got the crank unwrapped. Looks like it should..

A couple of pix..

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Mark pietz said:
I hope to finish my project before I die, at least. :rolleyes5:
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That's a good goal to shoot for Mark. :icon_eek:

some how I ended up with 2 1984 land cruisers, one of which I will keep. The other will be sold after it donates it's 5 speed trans and gets a 4 speed and becomes 100% road worthy. Bet you didn't know toyotas have donor cards.

The stroker 152 has a nos block, a stroked crank and a set of built proof rods. I just need to mock it up design, and order pistons, decide on a head, have a cam made, plumb the turbo and drop it in my Scout.
 
Is there a major reason why you went with the 152 block v.s the 196 block for this other than the .800 deck height difference? I noticed the rotating mass difference was mentioned, but I wouldn't think it would be much different, now that you went with the 196 crank. I would think the ability to increase the cid of the 196 more so than the 152 would be useful, but I'm also younger with less experience than you.

I'm not bashing your choice, you seem to know what you're doing, but I'm planning a similar build and am making sure I think of everything beforehand. Planning this is my stress reliever while I'm at college, so I have plenty of time to finish figuring this stuff out.

Thanks for the help,
Craig lenoir
 
wlenoir said:
is there a major reason why you went with the 152 block v.s the 196 block for this other than the .800 deck height difference? I noticed the rotating mass difference was mentioned, but I wouldn't think it would be much different, now that you went with the 196 crank. I would think the ability to increase the cid of the 196 more so than the 152 would be useful, but I'm also younger with less experience than you.

I'm not bashing your choice, you seem to know what you're doing, but I'm planning a similar build and am making sure I think of everything beforehand. Planning this is my stress reliever while I'm at college, so I have plenty of time to finish figuring this stuff out.

Thanks for the help,
Craig lenoir
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The operative word is reciprocating mass not rotating mass that effects efficiency. While I am not using the 196 crank but a modified 152 crank, it will be substantially lower in rotating mass and accelerate easier it will not improve constant speed efficiency.

With the tall 196 block you have to either run a super long rod or a super tall piston. That is not the case with the 152 block.

The stock 152 and 196 pistons are super heavy, going on memory 900gm +. With the stroke and a proper piston I will be south of 50% of that weight. The rods I have for the project will be stronger and 40% lighter in recip mass also.
 
The stock 152 and 196 pistons are super heavy, going on memory 900gm +. With the stroke and a proper piston I will be south of 50% of that weight. The rods I have for the project will be stronger and 40% lighter in recip mass also.[/quote]


I have the balancing ticket from my 196. Those pistons do, indeed, weigh well north of 900 grams. Heavy suckers!

So exactly what will your displacement be?
 
Robert kenney said:
the operative word is reciprocating mass not rotating mass that effects efficiency. While I am not using the 196 crank but a modified 152 crank, it will be substantially lower in rotating mass and accelerate easier it will not improve constant speed efficiency.

With the tall 196 block you have to either run a super long rod or a super tall piston. That is not the case with the 152 block.

The stock 152 and 196 pistons are super heavy, going on memory 900gm +. With the stroke and a proper piston I will be south of 50% of that weight. The rods I have for the project will be stronger and 40% lighter in recip mass also.
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Was going through some paperwork and found the balancing ticket from the machine shop. Here's the weight of a silvolite 196 piston (0.020" over), pin and connecting rod. All weights in grams:

piston: 846.6
pin: 164.8
total: 1,011.4

rod:
recip, top end: 252.2
rot, bottom end: 695.8
total: 948.0

heavy suckers.
 
How is this coming? I'm the noob to the site, but really interested in where you are going with this. I know you have a lot on your plate (from reading your posts), but you really have my attention.
 
Not much movement on this project. Took on helping a friend restoring a 71 c10 short bed. Rust repair right now and flipping the rear axle to lower it 5+ like the front. Nothing like a hammered c10.
 
Man I understand too well. I have an '80 fsj getting a full power-plant swap that I have to have done by the end of May as my daughters graduation present (you gotta love a girl that wants a wagoneer instead of something new) and a tj that I am rebuilding too, so I bought a Scout 'cause I don't have enough projects going...:yikes:
 
The land cruiser block is at the machine shop so I had some time to make progress on the 188 inch 152 stroker. Mounted the nos block on a spare engine stand and began mapping the cylinder wall thickness. First I marked a 12 gauge solid wire at 1/16 increments to get a good idea. Accessing the water side wall I measured through the cooling passage holes and marked the deck 1-3. 1 means 1/16 3 = 3/16 from the hole edge to the water side of the bore. Then I measured the hole to the piston side of the bore subtracting the gauged 1-3 reading and marked the deck in a decimal witch represents the bore thickness. The thinnest I got that way was .318. That's good because after boring to 4" I still have .25+ wall thickness. I like 3/16 (.1875) + for good stability. Next I'll need a set of main bearings to mock the crank and a cut down piston to mock the crank and rods. It should go quickly from here on out.

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Also good the block being a nos IH service part, it had new IH cam bearings in it. They should be ok as they have never seen service or any abuse. I will leave them be.
 
Sourced a new 396 bbc piston and machined it to fit the stock bore. This is only for mock and clearance checks so it is not functional any more. Machined the diameter and compression distance to the numbers I calculated.

Installed the cam. Spins with only fingers on the nose. IH did a great job installing the bearings. The rear cam bearing is installed as we expected, about 3/32 below the rear most surface that the plate seats on. The lifter bores and lobes are correct with the lobe favoring the rear of the lifter bore. The lobe is supposed to have the taper proud to the rear of the lobe.

There is a lot of room between the rod and cam. The 4 bangers also don't have a lobe that is inline with the rod but even a v8 will have no problems.

The same clearance is true with the rod to block and piston to crank counter weights.

Here are a few pictures for reference.

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I'm going to resurrect this project. The new Scout didn't materialize for a number of reasons, so now I can justify rolling my backup 152 into my shop and begin mocking up the intake manifold, exhaust/turbo manifold and intake plenum.
The first generation of this project will be a stock stroke 152 that may have a non stock bore, rod length and some comprehensive port massaging. .

It will have the two DHLA40H side draught DeLortos, and a properly sized turbo which I already own. They will be running in the typical blow through configuration and most likely incorporate an after cooler.

Stay tuned if you are interested. Don't hesitate to kick me if I slack off on making progress. :Yawn::rolleyes5:
 
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So far I got the extra engine stripped of parts that will be replaced by new the intake and exhaust assemblies. Mounted both intake and exhaust flanges. I'm getting ready to form the round to square, trap, and rectangle transitions for the ports this weekend. Purchased a couple of 2 foot lengths of 304 SS tubing 1-5/8 round in 18 and 16 gauge + 1-1/4 18 gauge from Burns Stainless.

Also bought one of IHPA's mini high torque gear reduction starters to free up as much room as possible for the exhaust and turbo. The OEM direct drive starter is big and makes things tight.
 
Went out to the shop early this morning with my cup of coffee, and tested my home made forming tools. They made easy work of the transition stubs. Need to complete the set and a few extra cause I know I'll screw a couple up fabricating the manifolds.

Cut 2-1/4 inch pieces of the correct tubing on the band saw, used the lathe to make the ends square and flat, and used my mill vice to press form the shapes. Also helped the forming process with a round face body hammer.

I think the 1-1/4 OD tube that I chose for the coolant ports is small. I will order a piece of 1-3/8 and try again next weekend.

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