The Sonjamotor Lives!

Could we please have details of the glyptal application? At least a description of where to apply it.

michael mayben said:
last of all, the cylinder hone process. I've used the flex-hones for nearly all honing/internal hole prep work since around 1970.

This block does not need to be bored, just cylinder prep for re-ring.

If the block needed to be bored, I would have the machine shop bore each cylinder to it's mating piston, and then machine-honed to final piston-to-cylinder clearance as spec'd by the piston manufacturer.

Each cylinder gets approximately 30 in-and-out strokes while being flooded with the oil mix from the squirt can. That keeps the individual hone "balls" from loading up and makes for a perfect crosshatch.

Once all honing operations are complete, each cylinder is scrubbed out using an abrasive type power cleaner such as comet. Surface rust will start forming immediately if allowed to dry. The block will then be douched one last time with a degreasing agent and then powerwashed with the high pressure spray directed through every gallery and hole. Once that is done the block immediately gets blow-dried using a leaf blower, again directed into any penetration.

Next up, the block is masked and prepped for coating internally with an epoxy resin material commonly referred to as "glyptal".
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harrywt said:
thanks for the reply but this only shows me one place where someone applied glyptal and apparently incorrectly. Are you telling me not to use it? Is this the only part of the engine to get glyptal?

Best regards,
harry
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Personally, I wouldn't bother with that much trouble. These IH motors have been known to survive several hundred thousand miles in stock form with out that added hype. I never used any of those internal engine paint products. I rather spend that extra expense on something else - like gas
 
harrywt said:
is glyptal good for the outside of the engine? As opposed to rattle can hi temp paint?
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No clue. I never used it. I always used the high temp rattle cans for the exterior of the motor. Even though I have access to have anything I wanted powder coated, it hasn't been wrth my time to go through that much trouble. It's a lot of work and for the most part not worth the added expense. Only way I might even consider it is if I was building a show only rig. But, I build to drive and use my rigs for what they were built for.
 
Tom used that paint trying to get the oil to not stick to the casting. Since he was racing and tearing up motors he tried it.

A better idea would be to polish the inside if you need it to be that slick. Not sure how much extra oil that casting would hold over a polished one? Wonder if Tom ever tried lighter weight oil
 
My opinion on the glyptol usage is that if it fails to adhere it is such a big issue that its not worth the benefits...

Michael had the block clean enough to create a good bond but not on this engine. When will the coating fail? What will happen to the oil system then?

I don't see the benefits outweighing the risk.
 
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One of my other hobbies is lister-oid engines. Mine is a cs 6/1 diesel (6hp 1 cylinder) with a 4.5" bore and a 5.5" stroke and runs at 650 rpm. These engines are copies of the original lister made in england from 1930 to 1987. The indian do their casting in sand pits and yes their castings can have pits too. They coat the interior of all their engines with glyptal to seal the pits and unfortunately cover up any casting sand not removed from the crankcase.

It does work well on a thoroughly hot tanked and degreased casting. With anything less you take your chances. I would not bother with an IH engine as their castings are great.
 
Here's a picture I found and saved for just this questions! It's actually a IH block too! Can't remember who's it is though.


Tear down of a glyptal ihsv.

glyptol+paint+failure.jpg
 
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