Steering Help!!

K

Knapp870

Member
Hey everyone! Glad to be a member of this awesome community. I have spent hours digging through all the great information here. A few months ago I bought my first Scout from a guy(1978 Scout II with 304 v8 and 3/4 ton full length Chevy axles front and back). He only had it about a month because it turned out not to be what he was lookin for but gave me the # of the guy that had done most of the build work before him.

Anyways, here is my issue. When I got it, the power steering would squeal pretty bad and not really have any power when at a stop on pavement, driving around it would be fine. It had a leak out of one of the hoses, but didnt really think that was the issue. I tried bleeding it, only to overhear the fluid. After that, I figured the power steering pump was probably shot.

I then purchased a new pump last night, installed it, jacked the tires off the ground, topped off with power steering fluid and began the turning lock to lock bleeding process. (I forgot to mention I also got a new belt). It seemed to turn much easier, so I let it down, and went for a drive. The steering still squealed when at a stop and I have virtually no power steering when the vehicle isnt moving. I went back home, popped the lid and saw the liquid was somewhat foamy. However, when I jack the wheels up and go lock to lock, it isnt foamy.

Do you think there is still air trapped somewhere? Should I try a power steering pressure bleed kit? Or do you think it is binding somewhere or a bad power steering box? I will mention that they did a spring over, with somewhat of a dropped drag link (not a full z) and no drop pitman arm. I have attached some pics. I thank you in advance!!
 

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Welcome, glad to have you. What size tires? Is your ps pump a stock replacement? Anything bigger than a 35x12.5 tire is asking a bit much of a stock style pump. Sure, its going to turn easy enough without any weight on the tires.
 
They are only 265/75s, which I think come out to about 31s. Ya, I got a stock reman from one of the big parts chains.
 
Should be able to handle those well enough. At the risk of jumping to a perhaps forgone conclusion, its not unheard of these days, especially with re-mans, to get a complete hunk of shit right out of the box.
 
Eeek I hope not. Any way I could figure that out? I mean it was doing it before the replacement and now after....I'm really getting frustrated with the whole thing. I just want to get the Scout to a point where I can have some fun with it. I need to start a build thread, but I've put extended shocks, winch bumper, roll bar, winch, rebuilt the carb, re-did the vac system, changed rear diff fluid (still cant figure out why the detroit wont unlock), rear step bumper install, you name it.

My buddy thinks maybe it is binding, but I'm not convinced. It just seems to cavitate and screech under load, then after driving frothy fluid.
 
How long is the steering arm on the new front axle. If it's shorter than the original one perhaps a shorter pitman arm on the steering box would correct the issue. If those tires are 16" they'll be around 33" tall. I run this size tire on my Scout with the stock axle and have no steering problems.
 
I'm not sure, I'll have to measure. It is, however a full size Chevy 3/4 ton d44. However, how they did the "z" link is straight at an angle from the pitman, down to 1 bend at the bottom to flatten it out. Any issues with this?
 
Only bump steer. There is a short drop pitman arm available that will help with the bump steer and give more leverage on the Chevy steering arm.
 
Well I sanded the pulleys and tightened the belt alot and it no longer squeals. It isnt easy by any means to turn lock to lock when sitting still, but it isnt nearly as difficult as it was. One weird thing was that I measured the pitman and the steering arms and they seemed to be the same length...?! Not sure what is up with that, but I probably need to measure again to be sure as it was just a quick half a$$ measurement. Both seemed to be 9-9 1/2" and it still has the 8 lugs, so idk what exactly they might have done.

Was the wagoneer pitman the shorter one you were referring to? Is it a direct fit?
 
What are the chances that the po tightened the nut on the top of the box to try to take some slop out of the steering box and made it too tight?
 
Does the steering "stick" to where it's pointed after a turn? Or does it return to center? If it doesn't stick the box is probably not to tight.
 
I ran into that recently. When the old pump crapped out, it sent pieces down the hose to the box. I took the hose off and reverse flushed it with air and got all sorts of metal out of it. I added oil and reflushed 4 or 5 times and it's been okay since then (I added a fliter in the return line and magnet on the pump)
 
carnuck said:
I ran into that recently. When the old pump crapped out, it sent pieces down the hose to the box. I took the hose off and reverse flushed it with air and got all sorts of metal out of it. I added oil and reflushed 4 or 5 times and it's been okay since then (I added a fliter in the return line and magnet on the pump)
Click to expand...

I like the magnet idea!
 
The stock pitman arm that's still mounted to steering gear box, in the 2nd photo, will be fine.

One thing I did notice - in first photo - is the bent drag link. And that it's mounted almost centered into the tie rod. If it was mine, I would consider custom made steering linkage to replace what ya got. I'm about to fab up replacement steering linkage in a friend's 69 Scout, with t-style setup similar to what you have, but with a longer drag link, that is extended further out towards the passenger wheel. And I'm using new 3/4 to 1 ton chebby rod ends.

What's the condition of the knuckles and ball joints? How about the axle u-joints? If the history of the chebby axle is un-known and the maintenance history.

**edit**
worse case scenerio - is that the steering gear box could be on it's way out. Might be possible that it is the cause of the drag and airated fluid when full wieght to ground in parked. Maybe a combo of gear box and old pump. My 73 beast sits on 35" tires with stock pump and stock pitman arm with no problems at all. My steering linkage currently has a z-link style drag link that goes from pitman arm to passenger side knuckle.
 
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Psc will rebuild your steering box if needed, get them to tap it for hydro assist. I did mine and it turns 37" tall by 14 wide iroks no problem at idle (with the hydro assist). Cost might be an issue but definately worth it.
Also, check for cracks in any of the plumbing where it could suck in air, my pump (can) had a crack around the fitting and would suck in air, lots of bubbles in the resevoir. Didn't work very well either, lots of wine...
 
Great suggestions! I do have a leak, I believe from the high pressure line into the gear box, tightened it but still leaking. I'm thinking of ordering a new one to see if that helps. I am also thinking about getting another box and perhaps drilling for hydro assist. I have been tossing around the idea of 37" hummer mtrs and beadlocks, but haven't been able to talk myself into spending the money, considering I don't have this quite right yet.
 
X2
on the psc rebuild and drilled/tapped for hydro assist. If you'really not set up with the steering assist ram, then get a couple of fittings and caps for those new ports in the gear box. That way you're good to go for when you get the rest of the parts. Had mine rebuilt and tapped by psc. Made a big difference over stock
 
I reciently swapped out my ps pump. When I installed the new pump from a different application my steering became very difficult. The pressure valve inside the pumps are slightly different. The valves vary because some apps need less line pressure and some need more. We need more because of low rpms and bigger tires.

If you remove the valve, its behind the large nut that the pressure hose attaches to. The valve has a bolt in the end of it that holds a little washer. If you remove the washer it increases pressure, if you add thicker washers it reduces pressure.
 
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