Sounds like lifter tick and can not build rpm under load

E

Ed Fast

New member
I think I basically summed it up my Scout will not build rpms sounds like the valves are floating at 2300. I know I need to adjust stuff but where would you start. I do not want to put a new cam in if I can avoid it. What are the odds I have a bent push rod? Thanks
 
Again, more vehicle specifics would be helpful. Is this when parked or driving under load? Have you verified that your throttle linkage is capable of actuating wide open throttle on the carb? Can't speculate any further until more info is provided.
 
Yes it is while under load. (driving) I can rev it higher in park but sound like I am floating in still has a hard time getting to 3500
 
Pulling the valve covers is a fairly simple and revealing process. A bent or missing pr will be very obvious. Other things to check are ignition timing and the presence of spark at every cylinder.

And you still haven't said what the frick engine/trans combo you've got...
 
It'sa 345.:smilewinkgrin:

let's take this deal into the debug mode and try to pin point the source. No sense in shooting ducks.

Is it possible to get a recording of it occurring? Would be very helpful.
 
Yeah I will see what I can do to get a recording. I will also check spark to all holes and try to adjust the lifters and check push rods
 
The lifters are hydraulic and non-adjustable. The pushrods are also non-adjustable. Really not much you'd be doing but making an observation. If you're not worried about making a mess, you can run the engine with the valve covers off for a bit, or one side at a time even. What you'd be looking for there is the presence of oil getting to the top end. If you have a spare valve cover lying around you can make a cut out window in the top of it which will cut down on the mess and still give you good visibility.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I have not fixed it but I have figured a little more out. If I go to wide open throttle quick the engine will burp and sputter never gaining rpms. Under a load I can not avoid this. However, it will at the same when not in gear but if a apply a nice steady throttle I can build rpms without and issue. Any ideas. Is this a timing or carb issue?
 
Both could be contributing, but a fuel delivery issue is the more likely of the two. With the engine off and the filter canister removed, position yourself so you can look directly down into the carb with a light. Manually actuate the throttle linkage. You should see strong, even streams of fuel shoot from the squirters the instant the throttle is moved. If there is any delay, or if you observe weak, and uneven drools...there's the root of your issue. Then you need to determine the cause. Is it the acclerator pump linkage out of adjustment? Is the pump fubar and in need of replacement? Are the squirters and/or fuel passages plugged up due to acccumulated mung and corrosion? Any/all of the above?
 
ed fast said:
thanks for the help guys. I have not fixed it but I have figured a little more out. If I go to wide open throttle quick the engine will burp and sputter never gaining rpms. Under a load I can not avoid this. However, it will at the same when not in gear but if a apply a nice steady throttle I can build rpms without and issue. Any ideas. Is this a timing or carb issue?
Click to expand...

Two barrel carb? If so you have ignition issues and or a flat cam lobe. Look into ignition fitness first. Crossing of leaking plug wires can induce cross firing. Be sure all of your wires meet the max lead resistance in the manual. I use 5k 10k/foot as a max for carbon/glass core wires. The wire wound suppressor core wires should be very low 20 ohms max or you have an open in the wound wire.
 
It is 2 barrel. I thought I was wet under my dist cap but I pulled it off, dried it out and a bit better but still not good.
 
Ed,
once a dizzy cap flashes over be it from water or dirt, it can creat carbon tracking that is permanent and can fire to an adjacent post or ground.
 
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