so many questions ... so overwhelming

scoutboy74 said:
no. It isn't. There is a visible rust ring around the hole (from flame exposure) for that hose indicating some po got creative with a gas axe in order to complete that phase of the creative plumbing. Why on god's green earth? One can only speculate.




$5k without a rebuild? I didn't catch that point before for some reason. Holy crap! That's one damn expensive oil pan. What could possibly cost so much? I don't see any visual evidence inside this engine bay of the type of meticulous attention to detail that would naturally come with huge dollars spent. Are there receipts to back up this claim? I'm sorry, but this isn't passing the smell test for me. Just too much evidence of cobble and clabber, with seemingly very little thought put towards proper function and practicality. If it looks like a duck...yada yada. However, you impress me as being the type of person who isn't afraid to right some wrongs. You have your work cut out for you, but I have certainly seen worse.
Click to expand...


Thanks everyone, your help is sincerely appreciated.

If I have time, perhaps I should start going through the shoe box of receipts to get some idea what was actually done, or claimed to have been done. Unfortunately, at this point I don't trust any of the work done so the receipts were not that important to me. For example, a complete brake job is claimed to have been done with new wheel cylinders, etc. However, never in my life have I seen a complete brake job done on a vehicle which left the parking brake totally inoperative.

I've never added up the receipts myself, so I was only going by the totals the po told me. Specifically the po told me he spent about $5k on the engine r and r and about $5 k on everything else, such as new u-joints etc. (that's why I was so concerned to learn the way the truck was towed here without disconnecting the drive shaft, which May have damaged the rebuilt transmission or transfer case)

if you're curious, let me know and I'll post the receipts, as you have been kind enough to help me so far in this project. And should I include the name or address of the transmission and muffler shop that did the work, or would that be un-cool?

Merry Christmas, everyone!

Steve
 
Well, I am curious and even more dubious of the approximately now $10k figure. It would be interesting to see the receipts totaled, but I don't need to see them. It isn't there. Based on the pics and descriptions you've provided, if he actually spent $10k on parts and labor, he must have more money than sense. I'm not bagging on the truck as a whole. I think you have a nice platform with plenty of upside. I'm just bagging on the po $$ claims.
 
scoutboy74 said:
well, I am curious and even more dubious of the approximately now $10k figure. It would be interesting to see the receipts totaled, but I don't need to see them. It isn't there. Based on the pics and descriptions you've provided, if he actually spent $10k on parts and labor, he must have more money than sense. I'm not bagging on the truck as a whole. I think you have a nice platform with plenty of upside. I'm just bagging on the po $$ claims.
Click to expand...

Indeed. Sounds very suspicious as to the shop who did the work. Along with what trever mentioned about the po having more $$$$ then sense, along with more money than he/she/it knows what to do with. I have done enough motor swaps to know that the labor cost alone does not even come close to half that cost. Unless the replacement motor was completely rebuilt with new parts
 
Last edited:
scoutboy74 said:
well, I am curious and even more dubious of the approximately now $10k figure. It would be interesting to see the receipts totaled, but I don't need to see them. It isn't there. Based on the pics and descriptions you've provided, if he actually spent $10k on parts and labor, he must have more money than sense. I'm not bagging on the truck as a whole. I think you have a nice platform with plenty of upside. I'm just bagging on the po $$ claims.
Click to expand...

More money than sense I think correctly describes the situation. I suspect he just came across some oil company money there in alaska so he bought the truck and started dumping money into it with a shop that did only marginal work. For example, despite changing the engine, the front motor mounts look as old as the truck.

The truck originally was put on ebay. That's where I saw it. I did an inspection as it was in san diego at the time. I did not bid on it. A couple others did and it went for about $3800 as I recall. Apparently when the winner came out and saw it, he backed out of the deal.

About a month later I sent the owner an email and he informed me the deal did not go through, and the truck was back in alaska. So I offered about half that if the truck was delivered to my home in los angeles and he put California plates on it. He accepted and about 2 months later the truck arrives at my door.

I will admit that he was an very honest person to work with. I trusted him with a substantial deposit and he trusted I would have the other half of the cash when it was delivered. The world works so much better when people are honest. So I did not doubt the total money he put into it, only the quality of the work he got for his money.

I agree, for the money he put into it, the value isn't there. And he knew it too, that's why he let it go for what he did. I suspect he knew he was in over his head with this project based on his mechanical and electrical knowledge. For me, I too feel overwhelmed with this truck as I have never worked as a mechanic, and never saw a IH pick-up truck before in my life. But I know if I just take it one piece at a time, and people are willing to answer my many questions, with my past mechanical experience with chevvies, this truck will become a dependable on and off-road, long distance vacationing camper.

I suspect I ramble a lot, sorry. But this post is really about making an old truck road-worthy and I don't mind if others hijack or go off-topic as I will continue to learn from those comments too. So anyone, please feel free to share your comments and experience here too, and not just depend on the couple experts here to explain everything.

My next question - what is now the recommended way to seal fuel line fitting threads? I don't remember if in the past I just tightened the brass fittings dry or used teflon tape on them.

Thanks.

Steve
 
Don't use teflon tape for this, even the gasohol resistant yellow stuff. A small chunk could tear off and cause a clog. Try aviation form-a-gasket #3. The background info helps paint a more complete picture and makes perfect sense. I don't think you got hurt at all on this deal.
 
I have had great success with "harvey's tfe paste. I've been using this on my vehicles and on the aircraft I've maintained over the last 15 years. It is for use on gas, liquid, steam and oils. It withstands gas pressures up to 3000 psi and temps from -50 to +400 degrees and liquid pressures up to 10,000 psi and temps from -50 to +500f. It does not set up hard and fittings are easily removed. This is for pipe threads and not flare fittings. You should be able to find it in any hardware store in the plumbing section. Dan
 
fuel line fitting threads?
Click to expand...

Let's be clear. The threads that mate to the component such as a fuel pump body or carburetor fuel bowl; use sealant sparingly as suggested by trevor. Clean-up is easy with denatured alcohol. For the fitting threads themselves, maybe just a drop of oil to lube them, but be careful not to over-tighten them as the sealing is in the flare itself.
 
That's correct greg, light oil on flare threads but not on the flare itself, at least on aircraft an flare fittings. I was talking about the pipe thread sealant into the unit, water/oil temp, vacuum port fittings on the manifold etc.
 
Great info, thanks everyone.

Another question. My fuel pump has a built-in filter in a glass bowl attached kind of next to it. As long as I am working on the fuel part of the engine, I would like to replace this filter too. It looks extremely dirty-gooey inside that glass bowl.

I've looked everywhere and cannot seem to find that filter, including our online store here. Does anyone know the part number of that paper filter? Parts stores computers show a similar fuel pump but with the glass bowl filter under the pump, but they can't find the filter listed separately or part number for the filter in the pump they sell.

And are all sv v8 fuel pumps and filters the same / interchangeable?

Thanks.

Steve
 
greg r said:
a napa p/n 3002 fuel filter should work for ya.
It looks like this:more information for fram cg7

They seem to work in any glass bowl fuel filter I have so far; I'm pretty confident it should work in yours.
Click to expand...

Thanks, that has helped tremendously. The current auto parts stores catalogs and their computers could not cough-up these part numbers.
But, to be technically correct, the napa 3002 and wix 33002 are plastic in-line filters that look like this:

napa auto parts

However the fram cg7 you mention crosses to a wix 33943 and looks like this:

part details

I can't find a napa part number for this filter, but I'm sure this wix 33943 is the one used in the fuel pump glass bowls.

Thanks.

Steve
 
technically correct, the napa 3002
Click to expand...

Ha! Yes I biffed that one fer sure. What I meant was this:
napa auto parts

I dug deeper in my receipts and discovered I put the wrong one in my parts list book I've been keeping for reference. That is the one I use for glass bowls.

I've been going through the 3002 inline filters like candy until the tanks "clear" up.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top