Scout II specification

A

AmericaOverland

Member
I give up. I've tried googling the internet, and it appears that not a single word regarding the towing capacity of a Scout II with a 304 engine, t-19 transmission, and a Dana 20 transfer case exists on the internet.

I am considering saving up for a travel trailer to be towed by my Scout. I would be living out of the travel trailer for some time.

I would like to know what the towing capacity is for this Scout II and what equipment is needed to tow safely. I realize that the Scout II's wheel base doesn't help in that department.

Thanks in advance.
 
Need to know the model year of your Scout and whether the suspension is stock or has been modified with lift springs. Does your Scout have a slip-in style receiver hitch ala a reese or ez lift? If not, you'll want to get one installed. A ball on the step bumper isn't really adequate for pulling much more than a light utility trailer. Most travel trailers are equipped with electric trailer brakes. That means you'll want to install a remote brake controller in the cab, which then means you'll need to provide circuitry to actuate the brakes and charge the trailer battery during driving via a 12 volt wiring coupler. All that said, as you yourself have indicated...the short wheelbase is the major limiting factor for towing with a Scout. You're probably looking at about a 16' trailer.
 
A properly equipped sii including an electric brake control and a class iii receiver is rated for a max trailer weight of 3500lb. This is plainly stated in the owner's manual.

The gcwr for the tow vehicle and a properly braked trailer is 8,000lbs.

This trailer weight capacity is based upon the manufacturer's gvwr for the actual vehicles as determined by engine, engine cooling package, transmission, axle set, brake set, and suspension component set.
 
Thanks, guys.

Does this mean that I'm limited to a 16' trailer weighing at most 3500 lbs? Is it possible for a longer trailer to be safely pulled if it weighs less? I'm not clear on the relationship between wheel base, length of the trailer and distance from hitch to front axle of the trailer on fishtailing and knifejacking.

It does look like I'm getting closer to making reality "workamping," where I live out of my trailer while working for my company at various locations around the southwest. I would love to try this. If I can get my ducks lined up, I'll be able to move out in late 2012 and test living arrangements here in houston through that winter, and then maybe travel to the next location in the spring.

I need to start looking for a trailer, or having one built.

Thanks!
 
Weight is what is important.

Length will contribute to weight but different trailer brands are heavier than others.

In other words, some 16' trailers will weigh more than other trailers that are as long as 26'.

Also, when traveling, unless you are going somewhere that does not have hook ups don't travel with anything in the water and waste tanks. Water weight adds up very quickly.

As desi discovered in the "long trailer", you can add a lot of weight very quickly when you start putting stuff inside the trailer.

For lightweight trailers look for trailers that have lite/light in the name.

Silver trailers like the airstream and avion also weigh considerably less than similar length trailers from other manufacturers.

Holiday rambler also makes a trailer that is considerably lighter than other brands.

Whatever you decide on you will need some sort of trailer brake controller, a weight distribution hitch, and it would be smart to add some sort of sway control.

And whatever you end up with, keeping the speed down will be the best thing to do to keep things safe.

Good luck.
 
I spent many years in the travel trailer business. First, what gear does your Scout have and what size tires? A Scout with 3.07 gears and 33 inch tires would strain to pull any weight. One with 4.10 gears and stock tires would have much more power to pull. The wheelbase would limit your speed more than weight in my opinion. With the Scout, towing any trailer more than a lawnmower size would mean a safe speed of 50 mph at most. That said, scouts with the xlc package were rated to tow 5000 or gcwr 10,000 if I recall. You really must have a weight distribution hitch and sway control, not the same thing. Also, a functioning brake control system is a must. Also, check the condition of the radiator and clutch. If either are close to failure, this will bring it on. Avoid interstates and high speed roads, accelerate and brake slowly and give yourself some time to learn how to drive it before enbarking on any long trip.
 
Also, airstreams of the 60s and before were light weight. Other generations were not. The aerodynamics of the design do help alot. Holiday ramblers were never lighter than average. I can see why you would make that mistake, as they were known for pioneering aluminum framing in conventional travel trailers. However, they were built with higher quality interiors and other features that always added more weight. Your correct in saying that you must be careful not to overpack. Also, added cargo must be placed properly. More important in smaller, lighter trailers; weight must be placed ahead of the axles. I knew a few people who towed with the Scout way back when, it would tow a 20'(tounge to bumper) if you follow the rules.
 
An update... It's not looking likely that I'll be getting a trailer this year because of market conditions, but if I'm going to wait until the time is right, I might as well see about getting the Scout trailer-ready, and that's going to involve some money.

The Scout has been converted to manual 4wd (t-19 wide-ratio transmission with granny gear and Dana 20 transfer case) and has 3.73 gear axles with the same 304 engine in it. The tires are 31's.

Mike, now that I have my very own Scout II owner's manual for a 1977 from last year's nationals in front of me, on page 33, it says that it is rated for a max of 5,000 lbs for a braked trailer. This is correct, isn't it? (I have confirmed from a serial number search in state registration records that this is a 1977) I hope this is correct because otherwise, that would limit the weight and size of a trailer I can pull. What I am looking to do is reduce the weight of the trailer by pulling out things that aren't necessary, like bunk beds and replacing them with much lighter furniture of my own design. It looks like a trailer with internal toy hauling room is what I'm looking for, as I saw one at an rv park yesterday. A toy hauler trailer. Are there any options you are aware of that only have a bathroom and a kitchen, requiring you to supply your own furniture while staying at 20' or under?

Thanks!
 
My Scout is a '74 with a 345, 4sp and 3.54 gears. I'm running 33 in tires on 16" rims and am lifted 4" on rancho springs (stiffest of the stiff). A couple of years ago we towed a 18' travel trailer from north of san francisco to the grand canyon, through death valley and back north via i395 which has some 7100'+ passes. The trailer hitch was a load leveler with the heavier 1000lb lever arms. The trailer was a Dutchman classic with tandem axles and electric brakes on all 4 wheels.

The Scout did very well on this trip. The hardest pull was up out of death valley. The Scout was in 2nd gear floored and doing around 35 mph for over an hour. The temp stayed nailed on normal the whole way. Once we were over the crest there was one of the steepest and longest down hill runs I've ever seen. Towards the bottom the grade the trailer brakes started to fade a bit and just as I was starting to get nervous we rounded a bend and there was a big valley below. Yay.

I had a similar sized single axle rv I used to tow with the Scout and it was much more of a white knuckle experience. The Dutchman trailer was rated at 3850 lbs empty 7500 lbs loaded.

Make sure your suspension is in tip top shape, particularly the spring eye bushings to prevent sway. And you should be good to go.
 
So, how does having a 345 engine rather than the 304 change things? It seems to be that the 345 is simply stroked deeper with the same bore (but 23 lbs heavier). How does that affect torque (horse power rating is apparently the same for a '77 304 and 345) or pulling power, given the same drivetrain and gear ratio?

So I would have to stay off interstates because of the speed? That would make for interesting back roads trips! It seems people are going faster and faster, and you know, I was surprised to learn that the honda crv I had last year gave me better gas mileage at 75 mph than at 65 mph! No wonder people are driving faster! I have my Jeep wrangler unlimited, so I keep it at 65 on the highway, and it nets me 20 mpg.
 
It sounds as if what you want is to take a cargo trailer and turn it into a travel trailer with toy hauler space.

I doubt you will be able to find a toy hauler in the 20' range.

But if you were to purchase a travel trailer that was damaged/scrapped so that you could utilize the fixtures you could probably make what you want inside a cargo trailer.

Changing from a sv304 to a sv345 isn't going to make all that much difference in your gcvwr because you still have the same short wheelbase and the same brakes, axles, and tires. The only real difference is you might be able to get up hills a minute or two quicker.

Good luck.
 
I was comfortable at 65 mph with my setup. Since 55 is the legal limit on the interstate, at least here in CA, top speed should not really be an issue.

Had a b160 dump truck with a 264 in it. The gcvw was 30,000 lbs. This is kind of an apples to oranges comparison, but it does show that cid is not the only issue in how much weight an engine can move.

The t19 should be handy. One issue I've had with the t18 is that I've started up some hills and not been able to maintain enough speed in 2nd. Since the straight cut gears on first in a t18 pretty much require a full stop to shift into 1st. Getting moving again on a steep hill in 1st is a no-go. That leaves the only options of backing down the hill, with a trailer :cryin: or 4l and hope something doesn't break pulling a heavy load and binding the drive train on pavement.
 
marko said:
I doubt you will be able to find a toy hauler in the 20' range.
Click to expand...

I stood in this very trailer yesterday. I know this is under 4000 lbs. The issue I have with it is the cost and the fact that it's got all this stuff in it, as far as beds and furniture goes, which I don't need. But what it does mean is that it does exist, and I simply have to find one I can live with, within my budget.

ron hoover - lamarque - 2012 toyhauler trailer palomino puma 21tfu

Edit: this thing is over 5200 lbs empty. I've got to come up with something...
 
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Most of the typical travel trailers (and pop-up camper trailers) are made with steel frames and osb/plywood floors and walls, with wood cabinetry. This = affordable, but heavy. As said before, holiday rambler was noted for building travel trailers mainly out of lightweight aluminum. There also also several other smaller sized travel trailers out there that primarily use aluminum and other lightweight materials to maximize the size/weight ratio.

That said, we have a 2007 starcraft (12 ft box) pop-up camper trailer that we tow with either my 304-powered Scout II or 2005 toyota sienna minivan. At around 2500 lbs towing weight and with electric brakes, the pup trailer tows easily with either vehicle. We towed it up to 2010's Binder Bee event in oregon with the sienna, and last year's with the Scout. Going 60 mph on I-5 was no problem.

I also tow my 3000+ lb gtw sailboat/trailer with either vehicle. You definitely know its back there, but the Scout has towed it many miles around California.
 
I made a number of 2,000 + mile trips with my '75, 345, 3.54s, and 32" rubber, pulling a max load of 5,000 lbs. On a 16' tandem, and of course electric brakes. On I-80 from sacramento to st. Louis (down to I-70, of course). Couple of thoughts. The 345 can pull just about anything, even up over the divide at about 8,500' (wyoming). The limiting factor is the 100" wheelbase, but in a straight line without crosswinds, you're still ok. Add crosswinds, and a semi going by, things can get twitchy, and I do wish to live to a ripe old age (or old age w/,w/o ripeness!). I once lost my electric brakes coming down that steep, long grade south of park city, utah into salt lake and somehow managed to get the speed down as my pedal got real mushy. Needed a change of underwear after that. My opinion is if you want to tow something big and heavy and carry your loved ones with you, get a longer/bigger truck. Say, a Travelall. I made that same jaunt once pulling a big trailer with a '73 I owned, and there's no comparison.

0.02
 
In regards to the trailer you linked up above, the problem as I see it is the loaded weight has to be in the under 5k lb range.

Unless you start with a very light trailer like an avion or airstream you are never going to hit the Mark with something as long as 20'. My 26' avion weighs in about 3800 lbs empty and about 5000 fully loaded(mine weighs considerably less than standard due to some very serious po "modifications").

Which is why I suggested you start with a cargo trailer.

Cargo trailers weigh very little empty--no frame to the body, no insulation, no fixtures, no furniture, no windows, etc.

With the addition of minimal insulation and interior walls, the necessary fixtures to make camping fun (windows, sink, stove, toilet, reefer, table, seating, beds) I think you can put together a trailer that weighs well under 5k lb before you put your toys inside.
 
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