Scout II Ignition issues

So, can you lock the distributor down now or not? Please describe to me what your starter cranking intervals are like. I'm curious about the duration of your cranks and how much recovery time you're allowing in between. If the battery is being drained to the point where a charger must be used as a boost, my gut reaction is that you're doing too much starter cranking. Something is missing from the internal combustion equation. Either fuel or spark. If you saw a spark, then that is an encouraging sign, and just what you'd hope and expect to see after upgrading the module. That said, the sparks still need to occur at the right time in the proper sequence.
 
1977 SSII, 345, 2bbl, 727, headers, pertronix, trutracs front and back.

What is the purpose of the external resistor/capacitor that is on the same bracket as the coil? I am told that this was/is for the radio static/interference. No? Yes? If not, what is it for? Mine is not connected (wire broke off). Have not had it connected for some time now. Or does it have something to do with the ignition, coil, distributor, electrical?
 
Just went outside to do a little cranking. Turned on the charger since my battery dies quickly (it's about 30 degrees in my garage). Was cranking odd with lots of rough weird noises so I stopped and took off the battery charger. Just made lots of clicks noises afterwards. Now when it's powered up the coil and starter solenoid are getting about 2.5 volts when battery is at 12. If the starter burnt out I'd be very surprised as I'm good about not cranking too long and giving it cool off time. With the battery charger on it'll make that clicky noise
 
Below freezing in a building? Sheeeyit that's cold! You're tougher than me, kid. If it dips much below 50 in my garage, I'm not wrenching unless my mr. Heater is blasting. Extreme cold will adversely effect battery power. But, based on what you've said, I don't have much faith in your battery at all. A good battery fully charged will not run down prematurely. Rather, it will provide enough power for quite a bit of starter cranking before the dreaded clicking noise happens. Engine fires have been started by crank-happy morons without enough common sense to realize that cranking and cranking and cranking for ten solid minutes is a really bad idea. The point though, is bad idea or not, their batteries provided sufficient charge to keep the starter cranking well past the point of safe conduct. It doesn't sound to me like your battery would allow you to over crank the starter even if doing so was a good idea. Am I wrong? I mean, having to connect a charger so early in the process, just so you can bump the engine over a few times isn't normal to me. I think you've got a real problem there. 2.5 volts at the solenoid is pathetic. Your engine will never start with such a tremendous voltage drop as that. So what do we know about this battery? How old is it? I think you should take it to a shop that can load test it for you. That's not a test you can perform with your dvom. Lets find out once and for all if this battery is worth a shit or not.
 
The battery is old and crusty. Doesn't surprise me at all that it May have shit out. Would that explain the odd cranking noise though? I'll have it tested but I'd imagine I'll just end up replacing it so I'll let you know what happens. Thanks again.
 
So it looks as good as it performs. A weak battery will cause all sorts of problems, not only in cranking the engine over but in supplying enough current to the coil for adequate spark generation.
 
Finally got around to purchasing my battery. Letting it fully charge up although I cranked it a couple times and it sounded way better than before. I'll post results of checking for voltage, spark, etc. Later this weekend. Good call on the battery though. Thanks again
 
Went out to do some work on the Scout and found that while there is a good bluish spark coming directly from the coil, the spark I get from the spark plug wires is not strong enough to jump the gap and only generates a weak orange spark when the exposed wire is grounded to the engine. Had some friends advise replacing rotor and cap but I'm failing to see the purpose. Fact is, I'd like to make sure I have everything hooked up right. Red and black wires from the ptron are to the respective pos and neg terms on the coil, and my one black wire from the harness is on the positive post on the coil. And also, when cranking I've been getting sparks from my negative battery post. Tightened down the lead and it stopped but now it smokes when I crank it over. I apologize for being so inconsistent with my posting back that shouldn't happen now that it's not so damn cold out. Just wanna get this thing done it's really frustrating me. Thanks

and also is the resistor supposed to be hooked up to anything? I am assuming that the white box on the firewall is the ballast resistor and one wire that comes from it goes into the cab through the wiring harness, and the other end does nothing at all and is unplugged. I just feel like something is really wrong somewhere in this system.
 
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Good, you're back. You've sure had to battle this sucker, more than most. The sparks and smoke at the battery are a real concern. It makes me wonder if you have a short circuit. One quick way to check for that is to remove the neg battery cable from the post. Take your test light and hook the alligator clip to the loose battery cable and then probe the neg battery terminal. If the light comes on and stays on when you probe, you've got a short somewhere. Those are battery killers. Some how or other you need to get this thing where it won't smoke and spark at the battery when you crank the starter. That's a warning sign.
Your coil has plenty of resistance without the need for more from a ballast resistor. That item should be completely bypassed. I think you have the module wires connected to the coil correctly. The only thing I question is this black wire supplying power to your coil when the starter is engaged. Where is it coming from? It needs to provide a full 12 volts to the coil during starter crank and also once the engine takes hold and the starter is released.
 
Double check all the lugs on the starter solenoid, if they are loose or corroded, you will get slow crank and wierd problems. Make sure none are grounding across each other as well.:mad2:
 
Since you are a new young mechanic, I might suggest first getting a rebuilt kit for the carb about $30.00 and try there build just to see if you can do it you might be surprised and will definitely learn something. Although you will probably still either get the rebuild or the new carb. But you will learn something about how the fuel mixer works. You have some time, it May help you down the road to give it a try.
 
good, you're back. You've sure had to battle this sucker, more than most. The sparks and smoke at the battery are a real concern. It makes me wonder if you have a short circuit. One quick way to check for that is to remove the neg battery cable from the post. Take your test light and hook the alligator clip to the loose battery cable and then probe the neg battery terminal. If the light comes on and stays on when you probe, you've got a short somewhere. Those are battery killers. Some how or other you need to get this thing where it won't smoke and spark at the battery when you crank the starter. That's a warning sign.
Your coil has plenty of resistance without the need for more from a ballast resistor. That item should be completely bypassed. I think you have the module wires connected to the coil correctly. The only thing I question is this black wire supplying power to your coil when the starter is engaged. Where is it coming from? It needs to provide a full 12 volts to the coil during starter crank and also once the engine takes hold and the starter is released.


Have been going thru this thread (and many others) whilst re-doing my engine room wiring, and I just wanted to highlight and bring to attention this specific item here, which wasn't mentioned 'til page 9. Since the early 70's I've had at least 2 dozen 4x4's and other trucks of various makes and models, from a '65 Chevy panel truck to a '97 f-350, two landcruisers, a Ford econoline pick-up, eight different internationals, a suburban, an explorers, three broncos, but more importantly (at least as far as this thread goes), three early/mid 70's class a motor homes-----and all of them on dodge chassis, equipped with the 318 v-8 engines. And every one of them at one point in time succumbed to a faulty ballast resistor. Not the resistors found on the coil, but the white, 2-wire porcelain one's that are usually mounted away from the coil on a metal bulkhead in the engine room somewhere----but are tied into the ignition circuit. These things are fragile & brittle & not very well made, are susceptible to over heating and vibrations and eventually they'll fail and leave you stranded. They will cause either a 'no-start' issue, a 'suddenly-dead-engine' issue, or an intermittent 'running-like-crap' issue. And I've experienced all three. The first time we were stuck up in the hills in so cal for an entire day and night, until I finally traced my wiring and found the b/r. I removed it from the bulkhead, turned her over and looked at the metal spring/coil thing that laid inside of a groove, connecting both wire terminals. It looked intact at first but I soon realized that the spring was actually broken. It would 'connect' now and again while the engine was running, but hitting a bump in the road or punching the gas would cause the two springs to separate, killing the engine, or at least temporarily cutting it out. This was about 30 years ago and was my first experience with these things. Thankfully the next morning I hitched a ride to the nearest town and the very helpful olde guy behind the counter clued me in on these things and sold me a new one for $6.00. Problem solved. Our next two motor homes over the years were used extensively in baja,and they too used the same type of ballast resistors----and they both fried them or broke during our surf safaris down in mexico years later. Thankfully I had learned quick and had new spares with me, so we were never stranded for more than an hour.

So what I'm getting at is that these little innocuous 'white things' mounted in your engine room will cause you a helluva lot of trouble if you don't know what they are, where they are or how to even trouble shoot them, if you're having driveability and/or no-start issues with your vehicle. Even as I'm typing this, I just got done moving my battery and tray (in our '76 traveler) over to the other fender, installed a b/warner starter relay, relocated my washer tank, removed a shoe box full of bad/cracked/brittle/useless/unnecessary olde wiring, replaced a bunch of others and am getting ready to install a couple after market fuse blocks----and noticed my ballast resistor on the firewall looks ancient and the two terminals are loose. Gonna pull it out later today and check the back side to see what it looks like. But you can bet that before our next road trip in this girl, I'll have a new spare in our tool kit. 'cuz the only thing worse than getting stuck three times in bfe america---is getting stuck a fourth time. Especially because of something so stupid, cheap and simple as one of these things.....:hand:

regards,

rb


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