• To ALL forum users - As of late I have been getting quite a few private messages with questions about build ups here on the forum, or tech questions about your personal project. While I appreciate the interest, sending me a private message about these topics distracts from, and undermines the purpose of having a forum here. During the day I wear many hats as a small business owner-operator and I work tirelessly to provide the absolute best service possible to you, our valued customer. When I created this forum I rounded up some of the best minds I knew so that any tech question you might have could be asked and answered by either myself or one of my highly experienced moderators, this way the next time this same question is asked the answer can be easily found and utilized by the next IH enthusiast having the same question. This allows me the freedom to run the day to day operations of the business and minimize the impact to shipments and shop activities that these distractions can cause. It is of the up most importance for me to complete the daily tasks in order to best take care of you our customer, all the while providing you a forum to get the level advice and input you have come to expect and deserve from the premier IH shop in the country.

    So with that I ask that anyone with a question about one of our build ups or a general tech question to please use the forum as it was intended. I am absolutely available by telephone to answer your questions as well but at times may direct you back to our website to better field your question or questions. Most other private messages I will be glad to answer for you.

    Thank you for your understanding.

    Jeff Ismail
    Owner/Operator

Rebuilding an NP202

Now that the majority of the case is painted and shinny new, its making my old hardware look pretty tired. Usually the bolts and nuts are painted over, but frankly I hate painted hardware as it flakes off the minute I need to take it apart again. While I could strip and blacken each bolt head, washer, and nut individually, the reallity is it just takes waaaaaay toooo looong (as anal retentive as I am, I'm not crazy). Nothing else I could do to the bolts would be very corrosion resistant in their environment under the truck. I bit the bullet and ordered up a new set of nuts and bolts; while I was at it I upgraded to Nord lock two piece washers. The three roll pins for the idler shaft and shifter bars I'm replacing with the same size in stainless. All of this hardware I sourced from McMaster Carr, who made it verry easy to find everything with a cell phone app I would HIGHLY recomend. For about $150 I have enough spares to heavily carry over into my T98 rebuild with maybe $30 in suplement parts. I selected the zink-alluminum coating for superior corrosion resistance to the brass colored coating (quoted as 8x the corosion resistance). In addition to that, all of it was grade 8 over the stock grade 5. Big Ed, whom some of you may know on the forums has given me a couple good pointers on a failsafe for the four large mount bolts. I'm planning to safety wire them in place in addition to the nord lock washers. This will ensure that even in the event of a nuclear blast, those bolts WILL NOT VIBRATE OUT!!! EVER!!!
Here is the case mock up assembled:


Coming up in no particularly clear time frame or order are the crossmember, mounting solutions, learning to safety wire and a how to on building a lateral support thats actually good (I'm looking at you PO!) Stay tuned for the continuation of a large messy project I hoped to have done by now :mad2:

For real though, at the end of the day, I cant really complain about the results ive gotten. i could go back and do it faster... Anybody know if IH made a time machine??? I assume not given lack of parts availability... Or are those parts not... Yea no...
 

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The cross member and mounting can be an issue on these rigs for several reasons.
-The first is a problem these units always had, wich can best be described as "rocking" on the frame mounts fore and aft. Picture a drag car pulling a wheelie, the torque wind up on the pinion in the rear axle drives the ring gear down in the front, rotating the wheels and sending the car forward, but also providing a lifting effect wich raises the front of the car. I'm no scientist but I'd imagine its at least partly an effect of the pinion gear "climbing" the front of the ring gear. In the case of our old pickups, most of the time they aren't doing sub 10 second runs, but rather winding up extreme torque at low speeds in low gears climbing over rocks. This rocks the case forward by lifting the rear of the case. Another thing can be the rig coming down on or over a rock. In any combination of cases, this resulted in the rear mount bolt holes at either end of the member of my rig to be indented downwards. In addition, the two main bolt holes that mount the case to the member have stress cracks around where the spacers were welded in.


-The next problem is more apparent upon removal in that the mount bushings are fossilized 50 year old rubber. Untill recently the only known replacement kits have been ones that require mods, and use ridged poly rather than rubber wich absorbs vibration better. Also: $$$. Fortunately with some help on Binder Planet and a bit of effort I managed to research my way into a LORD CORP part #, emailed them, and received a new current part # of the still produced bushing (still original spec). These are now available right here on IHPA: https://www.ihpartsamerica.com/store/SL163387R1.html
-The last main problem is linked to the first in that we still have the fore aft flex to deal with. This can be accomplished with a lateral brace, wich we'll deal with here later once the unit is back mounted in the vehicle.

Now, my crossmember, mounts, and brackets. These carried the same gunk as the case, wire wheeling and putty knife to remove the majority and I tried something new here. Evapo-rust. Five gallons worth. For a skin safe, biodegradable rust remover it works very well. It doesnt remove paint, however it loosens up surface material enough to scrape off easily. Here is one mount after an overnight soak:

On repairing the member, there are numerous ways to flatten out the dimples, heating and hammering with plates, heating and clamping with plates, I just happened to have a good friend with a home made three hundred ton press :crazy: this took all of five minutes.


Next up the main crack was a three branch, wich i drilled through at all three ends and where they met. I opened it up with a cut off wheel to find the crack went impressively deep though not completely through and then filled in with weld wich still needs to be ground flat. While cleaning up the part to weld and also for a ground contact I found several other 1/4 inch cracks, so I decided to proceed further after derust to better search. Here it is after the first round and wire brushing some remaining paint and debris free:


Once these are fully repaired and clean they will get paint in black to match the pto port cover. I have a replacement yoke to paint and then I will begin working toward cleaning the internal parts and begin reassembly.
Later on, we will lay out a blueprint for a lateral brace that will use one additional OEM bushing, allowing the same plane of flex as the other bushings while preventing fore/aft rock. In addition, since my parking brake linkage is kinda mangled, I will be incorporating that in the design of the braces crossmember.
*edit: upon further development the parking brake design has been changed entirely, stay tuned. . .
 

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