Project Double D's

[punjig]

With all of the welding finallized it was time to build the heat shields.
My exhaust was made with 2 1/2in pipe. So, I used some 3in pipe and split it in half to build my shields.



Then I test fitted the exhaust and marked where the shields would go.



Then cut and shape.



Then attach for a final test fit.









Time to deliver to the ceramic coating facility for the final stage!

 

[punjig]

After a quick turn-a-round of 3 days I got the pipes back. I think they turned out pretty good. Here are the pics of the final product hot out of the oven!









And finally installed onto the Scout!







The xmission lines and brake line (on the chassis in the 3rd from last pic) will still be getting some thermal barrier applied to them. The 2 lines on top of the frame rail in the same pic mentioned are just air lines so no worries about heat with them.

 

[Tahoedonner]

Kick ass!!!

 

[punjig]

kick ass!!!

Thanks, I really had to think about the possible heat issues partly because of your comments about it earlier. This was not a part of the project I wanted to deal with. I found it hard to cut up a perfectly good exhaust system. I took a good month to bring myself to do it. But, I knew that if I did not deal with it now it would be a pita to deal with it latter. So, thank you donner for pushing me in the right direction.

 

[Fasteddy46]

Nice work. I really like the colors. Looking very sharp.

 

[DC67 800]

Darn punj,
stop making some of us look bad. Nice job.

Did you just weld a nut to the exhaust pipes for the machine screws that hold the heat shields? There is one picture that looks like that but hard to tell. Any chance you could post a pic?

 

[punjig]

darn punj,
stop making some of us look bad. Nice job.

Did you just weld a nut to the exhaust pipes for the machine screws that hold the heat shields? There is one picture that looks like that but hard to tell. Any chance you could post a pic?

Yes, that is exactly what I did. I tried 1 nut but the heat shield ended up being to close to the pipe. So, I threaded 2 nuts onto a bolt. I tacked them together, then welded both to the pipe. I could have just went to the hardware store and bought taller nuts, but the store is 20 miles from me. So less time spent doing it that way and I figured that no one will see them.
Here's a pic, dont pay attention to my flux core wire feed bubblegum welds! Lol



Also, if it was not for this forums and a few others this build would have never happen. I love the fact that I have been able to come here in the background for years to pick all the different ideas that has made it possible!

 

[punjig]

nice work. I really like the colors. Looking very sharp.

Thanks fasteddy.

 

[punjig]

It has been quite a while since my last post. Work on the Scout has not stopped but has slowed down a little. My 12 year old daughter had to have scoliosis surgery to straighten her back out and we have been busy with that along with working ot to try to replenish some of the Scout funds.

I have managed to complete a few small projects in the past few months, mostly putting into place battery cables and vent hoses.

I wanted to place the bumpers and rocksliders on for a little mock up so I decided to snap a few pics. I figured I might as well throw them up on build just for fun.

 

[punjig]

Ok, first thing first the battery cables. This is the part of the build that it was time to think about what I wanted to do about space under the hood. I needed to have something planned before the body went back on or else I might be sorry. I knew that something needed to be done as I was putting the air compressor under the hood and I also needed to run a two battery system for the winch/ onboard welding/ etc.

I had try to think of options for the batteries and had no luck. After browsing on day through some of my favorite builds I came across the solution. I found it in one of IH Parts America build ups: “pd's drivetrain upgrade”. It was decided, the batteries would get located in front of the read tires. There is a nice cubby hole there that is perfect. I did a lot of measuring to make sure that the tire itself would not come in contact with the battery, also taking into consideration that the Scout will have a 2” body lift.



So off to the shop to make it happen.

First I grabbed a couple of tuffstuff battery trays that would accept the optima batteries that I would use. I used a piece of 2” angle iron that would become the holding bracket and welded it to the battery tray.



Put it into place and checked to make sure all looked good.



Then I did some final welds.



I didn’t like my crap flux core wire feed welds (I really need to get a better welder), so I whipped out the drill press and a hole saw.



I punched out new holes for two reasons: first, obviously for looks. Second, for access to the bolt heads that will hold the tray into place. Two holes will be drilled through the body mount bracket on the body itself, and then the battery tray will be held into place by bolts running through the holes.





I will post pics of the finished product when I get to that point.

 

[punjig]

Next, I had to run the battery cables. Holes needed to be drilled into the frame as the cables were going inside. I didn’t want cables sticking out, this also allowed for some protection.





I also had to drill through the front of the frame to get cables and vent line from one side to the other.



I didn’t manage to get a pic of it, but I placed a ¾” pvc pipe in the front part of the chassis and ran the battery cable though the pvc to protect it from the sharp edges caused by cutting the frame with a hole saw.





The cables come up right underneath the radiator, and will snake up to a relay box that I got out of a junk yard and will rebuild.

 

[punjig]

The vent tubes for the axles needed to be run also.





They will eventually come up and mount right next to the master brake hydrobooster.



I sleeved that hoses with some ss hose sleeve and used a cold shrink to give it a finalized look.

 

[punjig]

Ok, it has been a very long time since my last update. I have been working a crap load of o.t. At work, so that leave not much wrench time. But, it has allowed my wife and me to save a little to recoup some savings for the build.

On to the update.
Some of this has been covered in the previous post but I thought I would drop it again.

I needed to run a dual battery system as I will be wiring a winch and I also hope to pull some electrical magic and wire some onboard welding. I needed to find a new place for the batteries as I needed space under the hood for the air compressor that will service the onboard air and the ARB lockers. I remembered the “pd's drivetrain upgrade” post and how the guys had placed the batteries in front of the rear tires so I thought I would investigate that option.



After some initial rough measurement it seemed as though it would work fine. I tacked up some angle iron onto my battery brackets and mounted them into place for a trial.







Realizing that I had nowhere near the same suspension set up as the pd build I needed to take some measurement to see if it could be done. First thing first, I measured and found that exact place the batteries would sit. I will be placing the body on some 2” pucks for the body lift, so this allows a little more play then just the 4” suspension lift. Then I mocked them up on a 2x4 on the chassis to place them exactly where they will sit in their final resting position. I mounted one side to see if it would work. I maxed out my suspension by hooking my cherry picker up to the axle and I tied a rope from the chassis rail to the leg of the picker. This allowed for the axle to lift and the chassis to stay put. I did not get a good pic of the travel but at full max I had 1 1/2 inch of clearance. So I was happy!





With all clearances checking to be good I finally committed to the location. I welded a couple of studs on to the top of the battery holders so I could build a protective cover for them. I used some spring bushings for stand offs to allow clearance for the battery post connections. Then I built a template out of cardboard.

 

[punjig]

Now the time consuming part of the whole thing.

I have a crap load of old diamond plate that I have been using for the build and that is what I wanted to build the covers with. I wanted to make some cover that looked like a factory job with bends instead of welds. So I spent time to build a press break.

I had a cheap 20ton press and figured out how to build a press break for under $80. I went to the local steel supplier and dug through their scrap heap. Then off to the hardware store for spring and round stock. After some cutting and welding I finally got my press break made. It will bend at least 1/4in steel.

Here are the pics in case anyone wants to follow suit.

 

[punjig]

Now that the press break was built it was time to get to bending. I unfolded my template and cut the diamond plate out.





Then off to bending.







And after bending and surface rust removal this is what they looked like.



After some more cutting and drilling they fell right into place. I will need to paint them black still but I am overall happy with how they turned out.














I have just a few more small details to complete and then I am hoping to place the body back onto it's home permanently!!

 

[chucky]

Hey, veddy nice build so far, but, I have one question. On the front axle, it looks like you did the cut and turn and left the shims in? Why not add the 12 to the caster correction and dispense with the shims?

 

[punjig]

Thanks for the compliment.
The cut-n-turn was done to fix the caster angle. Without a cut-n-turn the shims are used to gain some positive angle for the casters, and they are usually run from front of vehicle to the back. (which is how my Scout was before the build). In that scenario caster angle is improved but pinion angle (angle from the pumpkin to the transfer case, drive shaft angle) is reduced which in-turn puts more stress on the u-joint going to the transfer case.

With a cut-n-turn the caster angle is fixed, but with a 4" lift the pinion angle is still to stressful on the u-joint. So the wedges (ran from back to front) are used to correct the pinion angle and not the caster angle. Without the wedges one would have to get the pumpkin machined and the driver's side spring mount on the axle tube removed and re-welded. The later would be easy but the first part of this option would not be as feasible. At that point the casters would need to be turned even further to make up for the improved pinion angle.

This is why before the build I had a 4" lift with 4 degree shims (front to back) to give me a 0degree casters, but my pinion angle was way to steep. Any major bottom out of the suspension could lead to u-joint failing.

Now, I have a 0 degree pinion angle, but it took 12 degree shims (back to front) to make it happen. After putting in the 12 degree shims I had a -15 degree caster angle. So, cut-n-turn to +4degree got everything where it needs to be.

Sorry if I'm long winded.
Short version = wedges are to correct the pinion angle and have nothing to do with the caster angle. I hope this helps.

Thanks again for the compliment.

 

[chucky]

Ok, I see. I'm in the planning stages of doing close to the same thing as you. Every other build ive seen corrects caster and pinion angle with the cut and turn since both angles are dependent thru the center of the axle, but I guess the others did the axle mods you avoided with the shims. Did you weld the shim together, or to the spring mounts? Theres a bit of disscussion/disdain for sliding joints between the axle and spring over on bp. Thanks much.

 

[punjig]

I have my wedges held into place with beefed up center pins along with the beefed up u-bolts and spring plates. I garentee they will not "walk" out.

I, like you had done alot of research before I tore this truck apart. I drove the Scout for about 8 years prior, all the while doing research. I have seen the different arguments. I came across "jims serious off-road buildup tips for Scout iis" page years ago and save it as a favorite. He goes into details about hows and whys, and I eventually settled for his theory. Here are a few links to help out.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project799.html


http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/twisted-front-axle-housing-19314.html

Hope this helps.

 

[Tahoedonner]

I have my wedges held into place with beefed up center pins along with the beefed up u-bolts and spring plates. I garentee they will not "walk" out.

I, like you had done alot of research before I even torn this truck apart. I drove the Scout for about 8 years prior, all the while doing research. I have seen the different arguments. I came across "jims serious off-road buildup tips for Scout iis" page years ago and save it as a favorite. He goes into details about hows and whys, and I eventually settled for his theory. Here are a few links to help out.

http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/project/project799.html


http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/tech/twisted-front-axle-housing-19314.html

Hope this helps.

Looking good. I too have read, and saved, that article.

 

[punjig]

Ok, once again it has been a little while since the last post. We are shorthanded at work and a lot of o.t. Has been in the mix (25+ a week) leaving not much wrench time. I look at it this way; at least all of the money that was saved for this build is staying in place and being replenished with my o.t. Money. Keeps the wife off of my a$$!

with that said, progress has moved along. There have been a few things that I have gone back to redo.

One item was to put in a dui dizzy. I will be putting on fuel injection and will eventually use f.I. Controlled ignition, but until I figure out something clean looking (key word: clean) this is the route I am going. I know some might think it is a waste, but I don’t see it that way. My reasoning is that when I do finally figure out a clean looking solution for a f.I. Controlled ignition the d.u.I. Dizzy will be put on my little girls Scout, which will be just a carburetor system.

Anyways, I had got the new thermostat housing with dui, but it seemed like a quick hack job where the ear was removed. So I took my time and cleaned it up with a hand file. If anyone is interested, a little trick I learned to match the texture of the cast iron look is to use bed liner touch-up. Once applied and cured just primer and paint to match. I forgot to grab a good pic (I thought I had one) but I used this same technique earlier on the xmission pan and it turned out perfect. Here are a few pics of the dizzy install.

 

[punjig]

Sometimes I feel like I'm always going backwards a little bit.

I decided that I needed to fix the a.c. Bracket. The way I routed my plug wires, the a.c. Bracket was rubbing on the wires. I had finally figured a way to rectify it. Cut it up! I took my time and made many small cuts until I was happy with the relief on the wires. I lost a bolt hole but I know this won’t be a problem. I had also trimmed the ihparts a.c. Bracket to provide the same relief. Match the texture as above and painted. I am happy with the results

 

[punjig]

I had gotten with a friend of mine who had just completed a project called “project dream 1948 Chevy pickup”. He won the 2015 homebuilt heaven national award. I’m not trying to use this thread to promote him, he is just a really good guy and he put his heart into this truck. He is a very knowledgeable guy and a do everything machinist/mechanic by trade. He is also one of those guys that is just a helpful/humble human being. So with his input, we decided to give major named e.f.I. A go on this build. He has put a few of these systems into place on other rigs with really good success.

I know I didn’t go with the hamilton fuel injection set up. Trust me, for the past 5 years during the planning of this build that was 100% the direction I was going. I am still wondering if this was a good decision. This major named system was partly donated so I couldn't beat it with a stick. It is also a very flexible system as far as programing and self-learning. I hope this was a good choice. I have yet to see! Anyways I have provided a few pics after I installed it.

 

[punjig]

I also mocked up a firewall and mounted some gauges and the return regulator. I had also mocked up some angle iron for mounting the radiator and fan shroud. I have come up with a design for the shroud and an electric fan setup with dual speeds. It’s a volvo fan out of the local pick a part $27.50 including the 70amp relay. I am still working on building the shroud out of aluminum, and I will post all that I did when I get it done. Just wanted to mention this in case anyone was wondering, why the angle iron?

The idea of this entire mock up is so that I can get the chassis 100% running before I put the body on. I wasn’t going to do things this way, but I got to thinking, what’s the hurry. I would rather make sure everything is running properly with the body out of the way. The body itself is not in my way either, so why screw myself and put it in the way if there might be potential problems that have not been foreseen.

 

[punjig]

I have also got my gauges in a while back. I wasn’t going to post pics until I got them into place, but I broke down and couldn’t wait to share.

I ordered the brushed aluminum gauge cluster from IHPartsAmerica and I think the two will complement each other perfect. The white of the gauges light up blue at night, including the IH logo. I found a place that allows you to custom design your own gauge sets with logos. I had to use photoshop to design the “IH” and then upload it to the sight. Believe it or not, these gauges were not any more expensive then ordering a good gauge set from a big box mail order house.





I know sometimes I get into too many details and pics on these posts, but I feel that someday these ideas might help the community overall. Plus, I just like to share.